Jump to content
When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.
  • Current Donation Goals

6538 build, Dial size must match movement??


GWP123

Recommended Posts

Hey all, 

I'm exploring a Big Crown build. This will be a first. I understand that not all movements fit into the case properly, and therefore you either need the right movement or the proper adapter. That said, when exploring Yuki's store, I saw that the dials said " 6538 Dial adapted for ETA "  I noticed this dial was 28mm vs 27 mm on the standard dial for the case.     

My question is....what does the dial have to do with the movement? Also, if the case is a certain size...how can a bigger dial work? 

Anyway, I'm sure this question shows my ignorance. Can anyone explain whether the dial matters vs movement? why?  Thank you all for your watch wisdom. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, it´s all about the dial feet, in this case Yuki is just stating the dial is made for/will match an ETA movement instead of a Rolex or DG2813 (i.e. it will not fit a Rolex-movement without breaking the feet but it will fit an ETA-movement).

The size consideration is related to the caseset and not the movement itself (a 28mm dial will not fit a caseset made for 26mm), how much tolerance there is will depend on the specific caseset.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When doing a 6538 build, you usually start with a budget and work from there. If you're doing a cheapie build then your choice of cases will take unnaturally oversized dials. Higher end cases are sized per gen spec so they take gen size smaller dials.

Once you pick the case and a dial to fit it, then other dimensions come into play, like movement diameter, stem height, overall height and pinion sizes. Most cheapie builds use an ETA or DG movement and the appropriate movement spacer ring to fit it snug inside the case.

Then you find hands to fit the pinions and the dial diameter, and Bob's your uncle. :tu:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like Nanuq said- you start with a budget. Are you going to spend $200-300 or are you going to spend $1000 or are you going all out and spending $2500-3000?

A lot of people start with the Silix watch and mod it from there- these are the budget builds

http://www.silix-prime.so/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=116_205_214&products_id=2145

If you went with the $127 eta dial from yuki, with a eta 2836-2 and the silix case, you might get it done in the $400 range.

The yuki 27mm dial and case- probably the case is in the $700 range, and then maybe an eta movement will get you up to a grand.

A yuki case and dial and a Rolex 1030 movement will put you over $2K. There's also Phong cases and dials which are a little more than Yuki's prices- that could put you into the $2500+ range.

And remember, putting a Rolex 1030 movement in a watch can be tricky- Rolex hasn't made that movement in over 50 years, so parts are tough to come by- maybe impossible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"And remember, putting a Rolex 1030 movement in a watch can be tricky - Rolex hasn't made that movement in over 50 years, so parts are tough to come by - maybe impossible."

The 'goat is right and the 1030 is not known to be very rugged especially when compared to an Eta 28xx. For example, try to find a reasonably priced new rotor bearing for a 1030 (p/n 7004), the bearing being a common problem with them. The 1530 base movements are a better bet but still expen$ive, not overly rugged, and they did not come in the 6538. If it was me, I would spend the $$ on a good case and dial with a slow beat Eta. 

With replica watches, "Looks are everything". It does not really matter what is inside, especially if it has a solid case back.     Frankensteins are a leeetle bit different...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 14/05/2016 at 1:30 AM, automatico said:

"And remember, putting a Rolex 1030 movement in a watch can be tricky - Rolex hasn't made that movement in over 50 years, so parts are tough to come by - maybe impossible."

The 'goat is right and the 1030 is not known to be very rugged especially when compared to an Eta 28xx. For example, try to find a reasonably priced new rotor bearing for a 1030 (p/n 7004), the bearing being a common problem with them. The 1530 base movements are a better bet but still expen$ive, not overly rugged, and they did not come in the 6538. If it was me, I would spend the $$ on a good case and dial with a slow beat Eta. 

With replica watches, "Looks are everything". It does not really matter what is inside, especially if it has a solid case back.     Frankensteins are a leeetle bit different...

R,

It baffles me after you have been here +5 years you havent figured out the "quote" option for other people's post - shall I run a tutorial for you? :p

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep. Now I'm not afraid to use it, and use it hard. The others with gen movements mostly live on the shelf now.

swimming1.jpg

It's a glorious thing to see a serious vintage dive watch in its element.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/16/2016 at 5:39 AM, Nanuq said:

Yep. Now I'm not afraid to use it, and use it hard. The others with gen movements mostly live on the shelf now.

swimming1.jpg

It's a glorious thing to see a serious vintage dive watch in its element.

Beautiful vintage and a great pic using it like it should be used:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...
Please Sign In or Sign Up