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Daytona secs @ 6 'Lifers' review on the notorious 116520


rag9fx

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Hi all,

I just received my daytona secs @ six today .... i thought i would do a "Lifers" ( Top Gear Stylee) monthly review of it ... but only if this would be helpful to people ... if no one is interestd i won't bother re learning MS excell over again... :rolleyes: I have an exam tomorow so my first instalment will have to wait until wednesday eve...

Cheers,

ragsy

- if there are enough interest watch this post !

Edited by rag9fx
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A little taster -

Daytona 1165** seconds at six full working chronograph

Impression on arrival 1 of 2

-Model: 116520, black dial, Stainless steel bought brand spanking new non- modified

-Base price: 268.00 usd

-Price as tested: 388.00 (268.00 [watch] + 120.00[servicing] +30.00 [s&H]

- Cost to date:$ 388.00

- Wrist time to now : 6 hrs 35 mins

-Don

Edited by rag9fx
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i also would love to read a full review. i want to get a daytona but you guys have me all scared of the seconds at 6 asian movements LOL. i would rather get an older style rep with sec at 9 and have better reliability but most of them have that goofy subdial spacing. i cant afford a swiss 7750 daytona so not sure what to do...

Edited by L-dizzle
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Depends how badly you want it, you could get Joshua's for $268 and then send it to The Zigmeister for preventive servicing, I believe that runs around $200.

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Not wanting to hijack the thread too badly, but here are some (reposted) pics I took comparing a Secs/6:00 116520 (with mod 7750) to my gen cased El Primero 400 frankenstein (16520)... As rags mentioned, the rep is significantly thicker than it's genuine counterpart... The bezel, case and caseback all add a hefty, chunky look to the watch.

Gen case/rehaut:

247078-8359.jpg

Rep case/rehaut:

247078-8360.jpg

It's funny that we always complain about shallow rehauts on the 16610 Subs, yet here on this watch, the deep rehaut is what I'd do without :)

Gen case profile:

247078-8361.jpg

Rep case profile:

247078-8362.jpg

The profile of the rep case looks like it's a little bloated...

And a comparo from the top...

247078-8363.jpg

The 116520 rep has one of the nicer dials I've seen... And as mentioned prior, the finish and quality of these watches are quite nice. It's a heavy mofo... Heavier than a gen 16622 Rolesium Yacht-Master... And, it's got some presence on the wrist.

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Ubi -- This is one of those cases where version matters.

The 116520 that I have, which I got from a UK auction site a little over 2.5 years ago, has the same narrower case profile and shallow rehaut as your frankenstein 16520.

247097-8355.jpg

247097-8356.jpg

My 116520 also came with more accurate crown guards (narrower & cover less of the crown), but, on the downside, it also has a slightly less accurate DAYTONA font (the color of the font is wrong in the photo because I did not white balance the camera before shooting the pic).

247097-8357.jpg

From your photos, it looks like you have the 116520 version that Joshua sells (which I referred to in one of my previous reviews). I always knew that my case was slightly thicker than the gen 116520 case (but just by a millimeter or two). But now that I see how thick your case really is, I would definitely recommend buyers to suffer the less than perfect DAYTONA font and go with the version I have (I do not remember which one, but I have seen it listed in one of our watch collectors' collections). As an option, you could buy both versions and swap the movements, so that you end up with Joshua's dial (with the more accurate DAYTONA font) in my case. With that combination, I think it would be very difficult to tell the rep watch from the gen without a very close inspection. I am seriously considering that myself.

I need to add that these photos were taken before I replaced the crown and crown tube with gen parts. But both crowns look about the same from these angles.

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Regardless of version- There are no good 116520 Daytona reps around. I've had 7 of these over the past few years sicne the secs @ 6:00 debuted (yes, I was one of the dummies who paid $1k+ for one when they came out); thick, thin, bad dials, good dials.... But now... I own none (only my EP400's and V23 6265). Why? They just don't compare...

247206-8342.jpg

247206-8343.jpg

247206-8344.jpg

116509

247206-8345.jpg

247206-8346.jpg

Old pics... Their quality dates them :)

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Regardless of version- There are no good 116520 Daytona reps around. I've had 7 of these over the past few years sicne the secs @ 6:00 debuted (yes, I was one of the dummies who paid $1k+ for one when they came out); thick, thin, bad dials, good dials.... But now... I own none (only my EP400's and V23 6265). Why? They just don't compare...

247275-8338.jpg

I certainly agree with you about this one, but some of the better 116520s are among the most accurate Rolex reps I have seen to date. They look pretty respectable to me.

247275-8339.jpg

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I do not know if it is because of different years, but it looks to me that every Daytona I have seen the hour markers are super wide. Are there any Daytonas offered by our collectors that have hour markers that match Ubi's beautiful pair?

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Brook - There is a reason for the difference between them -- Ubi's Daytonas are based on the previous model (16520 with secs at 9), while rag9fx's are the current model (116520 with secs at 6). The current Daytonas have the wider index markers.

I'm new here so excuse the question. Is this particular Daytona in the higher priced range of Daytona replicas? Are there any replicas that come almost spot on to the real thing. I read in a few posts back that one member had owned many Daytona Replicas even one that was 1k and still did not feel that any were close enough to the original.

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Ryan -- Ubiquitous, who is probably the most knowledgeable person here on the subject of Daytonas, is the person that posted those comments. But I would disagree with him on this one point. I think the 116520 I have is nearly indistinguishable from the gen, while the flaws on Ubi's, although not terrible, are more serious & apparent than mine. It is always best to familiarize yourself with the gen model you are interested and then compare that to the various reps that are available for that model. (There are almost always multiple versions of the same model available from different sources. Each rep will get some things right and some things wrong. The more you know about the gen, the better able you are to choose a watch with the least errors, or at least the errors that are the least objectionable to you.)

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