By-Tor Posted May 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2006 (edited) Sadly, this isn't quite the case. Latest batches of these watches also have an incorrect pearl design (which looks to all intents and purposes like surplus from the Rolex Submariner reps). The 'new' pearl is oversized and therefor precludes doing Veloci's conversion as the hole in the bezel insert will be too large to accomodate the modified pearl. Secondly, the dial printing has deteriorated - the '300m/1000ft" print is now oversized, and the "Chronometer" print incorrectly uses the font for the black faced models. Finally, the clasp (probably one of the most authentic features of the older generation replica) now has laser etched rather than machine engraved markings. Ok, didn't know this, thanks for clearing it up. I've seen some pictures of the new model. I knew there was something different but couldn't put my finger on it. Nevertheless I still believe you have to have the genuine or the old rep version side-by-side with the new to spot those differencies. I wonder if all new rep models are the same... and if all the dealers have replaced their stock with them? Lots of people have asked me this question but haven't been able to answer that. Precious Time was able to source "old factory" black SMP for Bricktop so perhaps the new models are just coming from a different factory? Further proof that some of the best reps become "collectors items". We have seen on many occasions that new replica model doesn't necessarily mean improved watch. Nevertheless...the bezel adjustment and polishing info is still valid with the new version as well. Edited May 15, 2006 by By-Tor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gran Posted May 15, 2006 Report Share Posted May 15, 2006 We have seen on many occasions that new replica model doesn't necessarily mean improved watch. This is unfortunately true too bad that the people running the factories et al are not as interested in improvements as we are Thanks for this great description by-tor and i hope someone will pin this Regards Gunnar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
By-Tor Posted May 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2006 Thanks for this great description by-tor and i hope someone will pin this Regards Gunnar Thor already did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gran Posted May 15, 2006 Report Share Posted May 15, 2006 Thor already did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrees Posted May 15, 2006 Report Share Posted May 15, 2006 Same here great post I have the same problem with the Bezel insert so looking out for a new Insert RR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetsons Posted May 15, 2006 Report Share Posted May 15, 2006 A fantastic post and step by step photos, Bytor! It's so dartn good that if I had the SMP, I would rush home and start work on it ASAP. Thanks for taking the time and the obvious effort involved. Cheers, Jet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
By-Tor Posted May 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2006 A fantastic post and step by step photos, Bytor! It's so dartn good that if I had the SMP, I would rush home and start work on it ASAP. Thanks for taking the time and the obvious effort involved. Cheers, Jet Thanks Jet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tribal Posted May 15, 2006 Report Share Posted May 15, 2006 Great Post... Many thanks for sharing..... Rg Tribal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolfire Posted May 20, 2006 Report Share Posted May 20, 2006 Fantastic!! It's the way you compile and present the information which makes you stand out dude... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
space Posted May 23, 2006 Report Share Posted May 23, 2006 Great! Now I can get into that bezel alignment on my new GMT toy. And I don't have that pearl or He valve to worry about either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
space Posted May 25, 2006 Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 You must have seriously strong fingers and nails... I have been trying to get the bezel off for 10 minutes now using my fingers, a plastic rular, and some other plastic things with a sharp edge, but no luck so far... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infinitime Posted June 20, 2006 Report Share Posted June 20, 2006 Great review, too bad there's still no way to fix the incorrectly placed helium valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everythingape Posted August 24, 2006 Report Share Posted August 24, 2006 (edited) Well, I love the "how-to" By-tor! But as I always I messed something up. I popped the bezel of my SMP GMT and found that the spring does not have the hook-down at one end like the one in this tutorial, and my bezel has a groove where the spring is placed inside.. So a hook could not enter any hole if it had been there, you can't really see much of the the spring when it's in place. The teeth on the bezel are facing DOWN as opposed to IN like the one in the pics. There's a hole in the casing like the one in By-Tor's 11 o'clock, but mine is a larger hole at around 8. I get the bezel back on, but no click and no stop from turning clockwise. I can't see how the spring can stay in place when there's no hook on it. Anybody tried to align a bezel like this and run into similar problems? I'd love some advice. EDIT: Problem solved with the help of fellow members and a flashlight. Edited August 25, 2006 by Everythingape Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcrooz Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 Just tried this, could not get the bezel off with my thumb nail (or any other nail for that matter!) so I decided to get some tool out! Big mistake... I tried wedging one of my precision screw drivers in between bezel and case but it slid off and cut me rather badly in between my thumb and forefinger... Nothing major but I guess that I may have a version which has a tigthter bezel. The wife almost had a panic attack! Not trying that again... Oh well, I've been happy with my SMP for 10 months as it is, there's no reason to inflict more damage on myself.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
By-Tor Posted October 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 @dcrooz: Someone posted another way to do it: Heat the bezel with a hairdryer until the glue softens... and just turn it to the correct position. It's worth the shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcrooz Posted October 13, 2006 Report Share Posted October 13, 2006 @dcrooz: Someone posted another way to do it: Heat the bezel with a hairdryer until the glue softens... and just turn it to the correct position. It's worth the shot. Hmmm... I'll have to have a think about that one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcrooz Posted October 13, 2006 Report Share Posted October 13, 2006 Hmmm... I'll have to have a think about that one! actually, scratch that, it's done!!! Odd thing is that I didn't have to take the srping off, or re-align it with anything... very odd... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bravo Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 (edited) The clasp spring on my watch is getting a little weak. I want to replace the clasp with a gen. Anyone know where to get a gen clasp that fits? (I've seen a few on Ofrei's site but don't know which one would fit) Cheers p.s. I also want a gen clasp for my Speedmaster (exact same watch as Bytor has) - anyone know of what gen will fit? Edited November 10, 2006 by Bravo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gioarmani Posted December 12, 2006 Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 Very nice. Lol--bump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finepics Posted December 14, 2006 Report Share Posted December 14, 2006 My SMP chronos insert was only held on with a couple of drops of superglue. It almost fell off so was very easy to replace in the right position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
networkcrasher Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 The insert is glued (or taped) into the bezel. When you remove the bezel you can push the insert off from backwards. Then just reglue it into new correct position. In theory you don't have to remove the whole bezel in order to align the insert again, but it's virtually impossible to force any sharp object between the insert and bezel hole - and then pull the insert off without seriously damaging and scratching it. I know this may sound stupid, but why does one have to realign the spring? Doesn't the bezel just rotate around that spring after it's reinstalled? I've tried a bunch of different placements, but it seems to me that all one has to do is remove the bezel, remove and re-glue the dial into the correct position, put the spring anywhere, then reinstall the bezel back onto the watch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiTrO Posted January 6, 2007 Report Share Posted January 6, 2007 can anyone tell me if this way of removing the bezel works on 45mm PO aswell? if not how does one do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitalpimp Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 I know this may sound stupid, but why does one have to realign the spring? Doesn't the bezel just rotate around that spring after it's reinstalled? I've tried a bunch of different placements, but it seems to me that all one has to do is remove the bezel, remove and re-glue the dial into the correct position, put the spring anywhere, then reinstall the bezel back onto the watch. anyone know? I would think once the dial is aligned with the "high spots" correctly, just put the dial back on anywhere and rotate it back to the 12 o'clock position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sam1174 Posted February 27, 2007 Report Share Posted February 27, 2007 Bytor, you must be a friggin monster if you were able to pull the bezel off with just your fingers. It took me all of 5 seconds to realize that I wasn't going to be able to do that. So then I got a plastic knife and wedged it up under the edge of the bezel. I only succeeded in breaking it into smaller and smaller pieces. So then I got a screwdriver and a piece of cardboard (the thin stuff from a box of Captain Crunch). I folded the cardboard over the screwdriver and tried to pop the bezel off that way, but it STILL didn't work. Am I just a wimp (don't answer that), or is there some secret that you didn't mention in the instructions? Does the bezel have to be aligned a certain way or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
By-Tor Posted February 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2007 Does the bezel have to be aligned a certain way or something? Yes. The bezel should sit the "sharp edges" pointing to 12,3, 6 and 9. You have to remove the insert and reglue it to correct position. This was mentioned in the review. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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