earnout Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Hi. I'm planning my list of mods for my new MBW 1665 DRDS (courtesy of Paso by the way, a flawless transaction and swift delivery to California -- thanks Paul!). I've poured over members reviews of their own modded DRSD's, and I've noticed some members have listed the addition of a "slow beat" movement. I'd very much appreciate a little enlightenment from the experts here on this. 1) Why do this at all? I believe I read somewhere that the second hand on a stock MBW DRSD movement operates at 8 beats /sec, but the "slow beat" movement is more like 5 beats/ sec. Is this the only reason? Is the second hand on the stock movement just too smooth for an authentic DRDS and therefore a clear tell? (BTW, Paul informs me that my stock MBW DRSD came either with an ETA-2836-2 or ETA-2846-2, but I don't have a case opener of my own to confirm which one I have exactly). 2) Which "slow beat" movement should I get if I want to perform this mod? I've seen discussion of the ETA 2879, but would appreciate confirmation. 3) Will this movement simply drop into my MBW DRSD, or are there other changes I'll need to be aware of (movement spacers? need to replacement hands, alignment with date window, correctness of stock date wheel, need to swap date wheel from stock movement?, etc, etc) 4) Lastly, where can I get one? :-) Have a ballpark estimate of how much I can expect to spend? Many thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kollektor Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 No expert here, but from what I've read, the sweep is the biggest issue. Ask Paso about these movements. Maybe he has them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docblackrock Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Firstly, check to see if you got a 2836 or a 2846. The former runs at 28,800bph which is all wrong for the 1665. The latter runs at 21,600bph which is much closer to the genuine c.1570 at 19,800bph. If you have lucked out with a 2846, then leave well alone, no need for any movt transplant. If not, then it's a painless swap to put a 2846 in there re. fitting, hands etc. Not that expensive a movt around 60usd or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselpower Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 I have an MBW with the 2836 movement inside. I met a friend who has a gen sub from the early 1970's. Although the watches are different models I was looking at his crown guards, bezel etc etc but the thing that leapt out as being different was the sweep of the second hand. The 2836 is just way too smooth. I did not know at the time that a slow beat eta was available at a reasonable price but I am now collecting parts to mod the MBW and a slow beat 2846 for me is a must. Good luck with your project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertieng Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Then how about the 1650 and 5513? Shall they also have a slow beat movement? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kollektor Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Yep. I'll have to do the swap sometime in the future too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docblackrock Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Then how about the 1650 and 5513? Shall they also have a slow beat movement? Thanks. Yes of course, same era same calibre movt. Assume you meant 1680 as the 1650 is a quartz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertieng Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Thanks guys. Where can a 2846 be found at USD60? Can't find it anywhere considering the so tight supply of ETA movements nowadays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tribal Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Some times they come with a ETA2846 from the Dealers.... I think they take the movements they have on stock... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cib0rgman Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Try Jules and Borel, I purchased two movements from them last year I do not know if they still have some stock left. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertieng Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 One more question, it 2836-2 and 2846 interchangable? Just a straight swap will do the job? But I think the date wheel has to be taken out from the rep to put onto the 2846 as the date position is different on the ETA date wheel. Am I correct? I am referring to the 1665 and 1680 in this case. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docblackrock Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 One more question, it 2836-2 and 2846 interchangable? Just a straight swap will do the job? But I think the date wheel has to be taken out from the rep to put onto the 2846 as the date position is different on the ETA date wheel. Am I correct? I am referring to the 1665 and 1680 in this case. Thanks. 1. I already said few posts back it's a straight painless swap 2. There is no difference in date position. 3. The only thing you'll need to do is swap/put a date overlay on the 2846 datewheel, either the stock MBW overlay or another (i.e. Ubi's/Archi's). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselpower Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 I've had a look at Jules Borel and they have a 2846 mvmt but it is a day and date type, is this ok to use?, do you just leave the day wheel off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docblackrock Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Yep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Ofrei has them here for $70. The 2846 Day wheel is held onto the center pinion by a small circlip. Just use a small screwdriver to prise off the circlip and the Day ring can be lifted off. repaustria -- The 'swishing' sound of the ETA comes from the auto-winding module.....if you remove the module, the sound goes away & the movement sounds like a Rolex when manually wound. How are you removing the 'swishing' sound without removing the auto-winding module? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stilty Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 repaustria -- The 'swishing' sound of the ETA comes from the auto-winding module.....if you remove the module, the sound goes away & the movement sounds like a Rolex when manually wound. How are you removing the 'swishing' sound without removing the auto-winding module? I'm curious how ETA solved this problem with their 2892-2 / 2893-2 line of movements? When manually winding those, you can barely hear it wind, and they wind with no effort and are extremely smooth. My 2893-2 seemed even smoother than Rolex. I couldn't even tell without holding to my ear that it was winding. I thought something was wrong with the movement when I first got it as the crown wound so effortlessly, I thought it may be been broken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earnout Posted October 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Thank you very much! This is what I've come to love about RWG and TRC -- the abundance of collective knowledge and the generous exchange between its members. In less than 12 hours you've answered all my questions, and covered topics I wasn't knowledgeable enough to even know to ask. I'm hoping when my project is complete I'll have picked up a few nuggets of learning that I'll be able to share as well. Best regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eunomians Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Huge difference between 28k BPH & 19.8k BPH. I can spot the difference from far away. I've been collecting genuine vintage Rolex for years. Most who are new to watches would be able to tell this difference if they had a chance to see a 19.8bph watch in person. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 I am not sure that a newbie could easily see the difference between 28k bph & 19.8 bph, but anyone can hear the difference. Though it is much more difficult to hear (or see) the difference between a Rolex 1570 (19.8 bph) and an ETA 2846 (21.6 bph) which is why the slower-beat ETA 2846 is better suited to these vintage Rolex reps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest avitt Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Funny story: I have lunch with a friend who wears a beautifully worn and faded Pepsi GMT, but doesn't know too much about watches. He takes an interest in my DRSD, so I hand it to him to check out. Knowing that I have several reps, he smiles and draws the conclusion that it's a fake...I ask him why, and he tells me that the second hand should sweep smoothly...mine is too jerky! I had to give the whole dissertation about the slow-beat movements on the vintage pieces, and the extra effort that I made to achieve that look.... It just reminds you that most of our work is lost on 99.99999% of the population. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 As has been said a thousand times before, most Rolex owners know little or nothing about Rolex watches. While Rolex owners spend most of their time making the money required to buy them, we spend most of our time learning the myriad details that make (and best ways to copy) them. Avitt -- I hope the skies above look a bit bluer today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earnout Posted October 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 Funny story: I have lunch with a friend who wears a beautifully worn and faded Pepsi GMT, but doesn't know too much about watches. He takes an interest in my DRSD, so I hand it to him to check out. Knowing that I have several reps, he smiles and draws the conclusion that it's a fake...I ask him why, and he tells me that the second hand should sweep smoothly...mine is too jerky! I had to give the whole dissertation about the slow-beat movements on the vintage pieces, and the extra effort that I made to achieve that look.... It just reminds you that most of our work is lost on 99.99999% of the population. Avit, thank you for the much welcomed perspective. Goodness knows I could use it. When I first starting reading the boards just a few months ago I just wanted to find a decent daily beater GMT II. That was it. A few days after I took delivery of the GMT II, the DRSDs started getting my attention too, maybe even a Great White for good measure. Then I bought the MBW DRSD and intended to just do a few simple mods for fun. Now I've made a full blown list in Excel of my desired mods with prices and sources, and now I catch myself studying members' posts on how to swap in a gen 1570 movement, while simultaneously toggling between eBay and Timezone trolling for gen movements. I now know about tritium versus luminox, fat spring bars, pointy crown guards, hollow mid links versus solid (thanks Stephane by the way -- great post), pearls with the silver band versus without ---- STOP..... What's happening to me?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest avitt Posted October 27, 2007 Report Share Posted October 27, 2007 Avit, thank you for the much welcomed perspective. Goodness knows I could use it. When I first starting reading the boards just a few months ago I just wanted to find a decent daily beater GMT II. That was it. A few days after I took delivery of the GMT II, the DRSDs started getting my attention too, maybe even a Great White for good measure. Then I bought the MBW DRSD and intended to just do a few simple mods for fun. Now I've made a full blown list in Excel of my desired mods with prices and sources, and now I catch myself studying members' posts on how to swap in a gen 1570 movement, while simultaneously toggling between eBay and Timezone trolling for gen movements. I now know about tritium versus luminox, fat spring bars, pointy crown guards, hollow mid links versus solid (thanks Stephane by the way -- great post), pearls with the silver band versus without ---- STOP..... What's happening to me?? ...it's an infection, like MRSA, and you've got it. No cure, I'm afraid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselpower Posted October 27, 2007 Report Share Posted October 27, 2007 I have caught it too. Quite worried to hear that there is no cure! I can confirm that I have not even properly started modding my 1665 and I am already wondering what to go for after that. I really am in trouble. Maybe total abstinence is the only answer, like cold turkey, has anyone tried this? How long do the shivers and hallucinations last? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertieng Posted October 29, 2007 Report Share Posted October 29, 2007 Does the 2836-2 and 2846 share the same dial legs positions? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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