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Genuine Rolex 1680 Submariner Movements


Edge

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I may be able to procure some 100% GENUINE Rolex Caliber Movements (15**) for the 1680 Submariner.

I am looking to see who would be keen on getting one, these will not be cheap, so no trying to email/PM me to get one for $100.

I am looking to see if there is any interest before taking the plunge. Gimme an idea of what you think you would shell out on a Genuine Movement for your 1680!!

Chris

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I may be able to procure some 100% GENUINE Rolex Caliber Movements (15**) for the 1680 Submariner.

I am looking to see who would be keen on getting one, these will not be cheap, so no trying to email/PM me to get one for $100.

I am looking to see if there is any interest before taking the plunge. Gimme an idea of what you think you would shell out on a Genuine Movement for your 1680!!

Chris

WOW, these are good news. I am very interested in buying one for my MBW 1680, Defenitely I will pay the right price for the movement.

You can count me in.

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Over the past 9 months, I've seen 1570's and 1575's selling for around $800 to $900 US- So, I would say if the price is in that ball park, it's a good buy!

And, I should also add- Chris is a phenominal source for rare vintage RLX parts! He has some incredibly good stuff at extremely reasonable prices. For anyone looking for parts to complete a project, check with Chris to see what he has!

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Over the past 9 months, I've seen 1570's and 1575's selling for around $800 to $900 US- So, I would say if the price is in that ball park, it's a good buy!

And, I should also add- Chris is a phenominal source for rare vintage RLX parts! He has some incredibly good stuff at extremely reasonable prices. For anyone looking for parts to complete a project, check with Chris to see what he has!

Interesting, I've seen 1570s for almost double that (£800-900) :o

Keep me posted Chris, cheers

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Over the past 9 months, I've seen 1570's and 1575's selling for around $800 to $900 US- So, I would say if the price is in that ball park, it's a good buy!

And, I should also add- Chris is a phenominal source for rare vintage RLX parts! He has some incredibly good stuff at extremely reasonable prices. For anyone looking for parts to complete a project, check with Chris to see what he has!

:blush: Thanks very much Randy much appreciated.

As for the range you stated I am looking at roughly that but actually, MAYBE slightly less than that. I have always said and I maintain that I am not doing this to get rich I am trying to help folks out.

I am hoping to maybe just get a few and then see how it goes, because I think that there might be the demand for them.

So if I say a rough guide of between $800-850 USD shipped for a 1570 caliber movement for the 1680 would you guys be keen??

Chris

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Over the past 9 months, I've seen 1570's and 1575's selling for around $800 to $900 US- So, I would say if the price is in that ball park, it's a good buy!

And, I should also add- Chris is a phenominal source for rare vintage RLX parts! He has some incredibly good stuff at extremely reasonable prices. For anyone looking for parts to complete a project, check with Chris to see what he has!

That what I was thinking between that range for a movement in a good working condition, that do not need a lot of adjustments. cause that will jack up the price.

I will buy from chris anytim. he is reliable. :thumbsupsmileyanim:

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Folks, $850 is a phenominal deal for a 1570/1575!

How many do you think you can get, Chris?

At the moment I really don't know, it's gonna be on a sort of supply on demand basis I think. I am looking at a couple to start with and then maybe a few more later, but I want definite interest before plumping for buying them in.

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I take it they will have the correct date wheel on them already?

They will have the genuine rolex datewheel. The datewheel will be WHITE not silver, but as you all know rolex changed most of the silver ones during services anyway.

Chris

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Edge,

this does change the paradigm, from rep to frankenwatch, however for the many who might,

there is a consideration as to how much work it takes to get the 1570 into a MBW/Watchmaster case?

needless to say regarding Randy and redbigjoe, for them it's as easy as changing socks, but for the rest

how difficult a project would it be.

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Edge,

this does change the paradigm, from rep to frankenwatch, however for the many who might,

there is a consideration as to how much work it takes to get the 1570 into a MBW/Watchmaster case?

needless to say regarding Randy and redbigjoe, for them it's as easy as changing socks, but for the rest

how difficult a project would it be.

Now I may be wrong, but recall reading a 1575 will drop straight into a 1665 ( :D for me) however the case of the MBW 1680 needs some slight modification before it can undergo cardiac transplantation - I'm sure Randy can clarify exactly...

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I believe that the case requires some trimming to the back of the rehaut- Not sure how much exactly, though I believe less than 1mm should be enough to get everything to line up. Of course, it is always best to check, double check and triple check all measurments prior to doing any machining; once you remove material, you can't put it back as easily...

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This raises another consideration, if, the case needs to have the inner distance ring (rehaut?) machined and thusly removes .39370082" 1mm, (a huge amount in the watch world) I would assume for, centering the winding stem in the existing crown tube axis.

Would this not cause the outward aestetics of a seemingly perfect 1:1, to be compromised to a degree of making it an obvious fake?

Your thoughts!

Edited by alfa1
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Well... It's probably going to be less than a mm that has to be machined- Not sure exactly how much, but you are corect- This is to center the winding stem in the tube.

So, depending on how much material has to be trimmed, it may not make that much of a difference.

Has anyone heard from saabin? He had to do this on his 1665 DRSD project....

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Randy,

you in the past have mentioned installing A.Schild(silver datewheel compatibility) and eta 2846'(21,800 beat)

in your 1665 and 1680's. Have you encountered the (rehaut?) depth problem with either?

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I've got 2846's in my 1665, 1680, and also had one in the Tudor Sub I just parted with. They carry the same exact dimensions as an ETA 2836, so they are a direct replacement:

62212-34410.jpg

Only thing is that the ETA datewheels rotate clockwise, so you're stuck with a typical rep overlay for the datewheel.

I haven't had a chance to fit the AS movements yet; both of mine need to be serviced, and I just have not gotten around to doing this. Since Ziggy is out for the Summer, I have some time on my hands...

62212-34411.jpg

The Schilds seem to have the same dimensions and stem position as the 2836/46, so I don't suspect there will be any real issues there either. The problem I've observed with the Schilds is obtaining the proper spacing between the dial and movement to allow the datewheel to freely rotate. I have some ideas, but nothing really nailed down as of yet.

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