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5218 201a dial


davidsenjpn

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PLEASE, PLEASE get the engraving correct first, with the markers and numbers further in from the edge of the dial and the correct shape 6 & 9. Then make the logo with the correct finer / thinner lines and I'll be happy to buy them at that stage without any lume. Kostas is right, they should have very little lume power because the tritium has aged at this stage. I would rather paint the markers with ordinary paint than have superlume on the 5218/201A dial, but PLEASE GET THE ENGRAVING SORTED FIRST BEFORE THIS PROJECT GOES ANY FURTHER.

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I think you have all forgotten or misread what David said in one of his post:

READ AGAIN:

Pls bear in mind that I am trying to make a very close rep only.

Making a 1 to 1 gen copy of this model is impossible for me .

Rep is only a rep.

Whoever understood.. understood...

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READ AGAIN:

Pls bear in mind that I am trying to make a very close rep only.

Making a 1 to 1 gen copy of this model is impossible for me .

Rep is only a rep.

Whoever understood.. understood...

Good point well made ...IMHO the new dial IS a step forward and significant achievement by Davidsen....credit is rightfully due .... :clap::clap2::clap3:

If Mr D decides to take the right comments on board then the finished product (be that V1, V2 or V7) will be all the better I'm sure ......some of the changes required do seem minor , but I lack full experience to speak knowledgably on these aspects of production.

For me , I can see it improving my existing replica greatly and I'm up for it and will support this project ...if only to see it progress to V2,V3 etc.......

I have patience for V., 5, 6 and 7 also...

FGD

:fish:

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I think you have all forgotten or misread what David said in one of his post:

READ AGAIN:

Pls bear in mind that I am trying to make a very close rep only.

Making a 1 to 1 gen copy of this model is impossible for me .

Rep is only a rep.

Whoever understood.. understood...

Point taken.........BUT if it is possible to engrave the markers on the dial at all, it is equally possible to position them correctly. We are only asking that enough care is taken to ensure that someone else won't have to do it all over again. I accept that reproducing the shape of the 6 & 9 may be tricky but PLEASE TRY.

It seems to me that, with the exception of dropping the aged printing which was originally proposed, there has been no attempt to respond to the any of the helpful feedback and assistance which Davidsen has been offered. Surely that was the original intention of involving the forum at an early stage or am I missing something?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mmmmm curious whether the correct 6, 9 and logo will come on the dial... if so... i will finally get this watch as i have been waiting for the ultimate correct one since years and there was always something wrong.

It would be great if we finally had a rep that was correct out of the box all the way :sun:

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in camera technology is generally known, that 35mm has the 1:1 ratio of the real object.

that means eveything on this picture is in real size.

and as a template you can enlarge the picture with photoshop.

but if you make a shot very near to the object or with macro, then you'll get a fish-eye effect.

that means the object ratio is totally displaced.

i think to get a correct dial size is only possible direct from a gen 201A with a 35mm camera shot.

assumed you have this possibility, then you can use this 1:1 picture as a template for a cnc-machine.

or the engraver makes a picture-print and can use it for an engraving stencil.

i think that's the simplest way.

i hope davidsen is flexible in his work.

it's very easy to say rep is rep, but today we have all possibilities for the technical realization to make a very good result.

rolli

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in camera technology is generally known, that 35mm has the 1:1 ratio of the real object.

that means eveything on this picture is in real size.

and as a template you can enlarge the picture with photoshop.

but if you make a shot very near to the object or with macro, then you'll get a fish-eye effect.

that means the object ratio is totally displaced.

i think to get a correct dial size is only possible direct from a gen 201A with a 35mm camera shot.

assumed you have this possibility, then you can use this 1:1 picture as a template for a cnc-machine.

or the engraver makes a picture-print and can use it for an engraving stencil.

i think that's the simplest way.

i hope davidsen is flexible in his work.

it's very easy to say rep is rep, but today we have all possibilities for the technical realization to make a very good result.

rolli

I was wondering about the problem w/ the 6 and the 9 so I showed Enzo's artwrok to a friend who does CNC for a living (no worries guys, if he would do rep projects I'd already have all possible upgrades for sale) His guess is that if davidsen's is using CNC shop for this project they don't have the proper tooling to do the tight corners, which he said would require a mid-project tool swap on most lower end CNC engraving machines. Seems like we'd be better off donating a CNC machine tool, than artwork. Which actually I would be happy to do.

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in camera technology is generally known, that 35mm has the 1:1 ratio of the real object.

that means eveything on this picture is in real size.

and as a template you can enlarge the picture with photoshop.

but if you make a shot very near to the object or with macro, then you'll get a fish-eye effect.

that means the object ratio is totally displaced.

i think to get a correct dial size is only possible direct from a gen 201A with a 35mm camera shot.

assumed you have this possibility, then you can use this 1:1 picture as a template for a cnc-machine.

or the engraver makes a picture-print and can use it for an engraving stencil.

i think that's the simplest way.

i hope davidsen is flexible in his work.

it's very easy to say rep is rep, but today we have all possibilities for the technical realization to make a very good result.

rolli

I have a genuine preA dial which is the same engraving as the preV dials (check out the Maurits Bollen article on Paneristi: hxxp://www.paneristi.com/archives/PreA_Panerai/Pre_A_Panerai.html). It is now built into a watch but I took a 1:1 scan of it on a flatbed scanner so that could provide the perfect template for the base dial engraving. It may be that we will have to do this ourselves as Davidsen seems to be ignoring all contributions. Lello has indicated that his printer can carry out the printing end and he (Lello) has certainly proved that he is able to produce accurate datewheels, so the printing end should be covered. If we could get the engraving outsourced to a CNC outfit then the project should be within reach. The logo itself is the same as the genuine 195 or 'long arrow' 005 and I can help out there as well with a macro shot of the logo. The correct font is clearly pictured in the 'Risti article and can be 'cut & pasted' into our dial so with a macro shot of the logo we can complete the artwork in Photoshop.

Can we make this a 2008 RWG project?? I am fully willing to assist in any possible way to create the ulimate rep dial if we could get our act together on this one.

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2nd batch of 201a and 202a dial been made.

Index diameter been remade to smaller now so that the index distance is further apart from

the edge of the watch.

But printer made a miskste on the 201a dial logo above the 6.I will make admenetment

soon.

Index lume been filled up manually.I think i still need more practise on tis.

Hope you can see differnce between the first and the 2nd batch.

I have made some simialr cnc engarve dial on the 203a and 218a pre A dials too.

Hope you like them.

DSCF6424.jpg

DSCF6436.jpg

DSCF6420.jpg

DSCF6440.jpg

DSCF6426.jpg

DSCF6430.jpg

DSCF6450.jpg

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Wow, DSN..

I think it looks better than 1st prototype.

I made 1:1 comparison images this time too... I wish this is a little bit be a help to making Perfect PAM!!

DSN 2nd dial and Gen overlap image

dsn201a-2.jpg

12 is looks perfect...

12.jpg

3 is perfect too!!

3.jpg

9 is little bit different.. but I think It's good.

9.jpg

6 is need to be adjustment...

6.jpg

Edited by Master Chief
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Looks much improved David....great work again

IMHO just the 6 needs to be a bit "fatter" and "squarer" edges on the inside on the lower loop.....then these are ready!!!

Best regards

FGD

:fish:

In case this helps: I used Adobe Illustrator to trace over a photo of a gen 203/A dial ... the resulting PDF is attached, which is *pretty* damn close to 1:1, IMHO. :) Anyone who wants the original Illustrator file, let me know.

Cheers,

Ari

EDIT: Fixed font from Copperplate Regular to Copperplate Light. (It was too bold before.)

203a_dial.pdf

Edited by ari
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In case this helps: I used Adobe Illustrator to trace over a photo of a gen 203/A dial ... the resulting PDF is attached, which is *pretty* damn close to 1:1, IMHO. :) Anyone who wants the original Illustrator file, let me know.

Cheers,

Ari

EDIT: Fixed font from Copperplate Regular to Copperplate Light. (It was too bold before.)

Ari ....that's amazing ....you got many things right first time ....makes you wonder exactly what the issue is for the makers....

Love the artwork file....please can you send to me ??

Oh ....and welcome ...keep contributing like this and your onto a winner!!

All the best

FGD

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Ari ....that's amazing ....you got many things right first time ....makes you wonder exactly what the issue is for the makers....

Love the artwork file....please can you send to me ??

Oh ....and welcome ...keep contributing like this and your onto a winner!!

All the best

FGD

Thanks! Actually, you should be able to open/edit the PDF directly in Illustrator ... if not, let me know.

Cheers,

Ari

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