Edge Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 Guys I have been having some problems and am now seeking your advice. What do you use to drill your lugs. I have a dremel multipro and the drill bits recommended to me by Dave (Thanks Dave). However now to the problem, I keep fu**ing breaking drill bits. Get nowhere into the drilling and I break the bit clean off. I mean we are talking seconds, what the hell am I doing wrong?? ALL SUGGESTIONS WELCOME, including that I am just incompetant lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancelot Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 Hey Edge The problem is that the case its made out of a hardened steal so you will need to do the hole With a low speed drill not with dremel, you can use a regular bench tyoe drill with a HSS drill bit But use the drill at slow speed, dremel will not do this cuz is to fast even at low speed and Has no enough power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edge Posted June 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 Can anyone recommend a drill for doing this work that isn't too epensive?? Thanks for all the suggestions and help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetsons Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 (edited) Chris, I used a dremel and cobalt bits. I held the watch firm but free hand and allowed the bit to follow the case holes. I did not have the bits break using this technique. BTW, these bits get dull so I suggest installing a new for every 2 holes. What I did that I haven't seen mentioned, is use a smaller size bit to get things started and the 1.2mm to finsih. You need to lubricate the holes & bit often to keep things from getting too hot. I agree with the comment that a low speed drill with torque would be much better than a dremel. The high speed of the dremel generates excessive heat & places a heck of a lot of stress on the bits. Jet Edited June 13, 2006 by Jetsons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 Snap-On has some bits that run a couple dollars per bit. Not sure if you have access to these- I can order some (I've been meaning to anyways), and I can ship you some, if you like? Also... You may want to try using some cooling oil in the lug hole while you drill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edge Posted June 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 The bits really aren't the problem I don't think. But getting some bits from you would be fantastic. I am having trouble even getting it started with the Dremel it only goes as low as 10000 rpm and I think it's just too fast. I tried the smaller bit first technique that had been mentioned to me befor by yourself and a couple of others, but it just snapped clean off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest avitt Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 Sorry I came in late on this. Like others have said, you need a lower speed drill. I recommend just going to your local hardware or department store, and picking up an inexpensive corded or cordless drill (you'll definitely find other uses for it). Even the cheap ones have keyless chucks, and variable speeds. I think that mine is 0-600rpm, and I use about half of the speed to drill the lugs. I recommend that you lightly clamp the case in a vise (with padding on the jaws). It is dangerous to hold an item by hand while drilling it with a power drill (if the bit catches in the hole, the part could fly around pretty violently). Probably the best advice is to use a drop of oil on each hole. I use 3-in-1 oil. If you have a good quality bit, and you use these techniques, you should have no problems, and no dull or broken bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sherrington Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 Definately too fast if you are using the Dremel. An ordinary drill will do a lot beter with a bit of oil to cool the bit. Start the drill spinning first BEFORE you enter the hole (if you know what I mean!!!!). You are only widening the original holes a small amount so this is important. I know as I broke mine on the first attempt but managed to resharpen the drill bit!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKTOWN Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 Make up an extension cord with a dimmer swith in it (dial dimmer works best for me). Plug Dremel into extension and now you have variable speed Dremel. Parts will cost you about $8.00 at a local hardware store. Plus it makes the dremel (or any other power tool )great for low speed work ,sometimes for careful buffing of cases or bracelots. JKTOWN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sssurfer Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 Great info here, folks! Thanks! I am going to try drilling some CG levers in order to slightly enlarge their hole (to put a gasket in and fix the loose lever problems), and this thread comes very handy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polynomial Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 Guys I have been having some problems and am now seeking your advice. What do you use to drill your lugs. I have a dremel multipro and the drill bits recommended to me by Dave (Thanks Dave). However now to the problem, I keep fu**ing breaking drill bits. Get nowhere into the drilling and I break the bit clean off. I mean we are talking seconds, what the hell am I doing wrong?? ALL SUGGESTIONS WELCOME, including that I am just incompetant lol. A really big hammer dril, 12mm and larger will do the job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davey Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 Are you drilling from the inside of the lug or the outside? If you're drilling form the outside you'll need to use a center punch to keep the bit straight. If your going from the inside, you need to hold the piece REALLY STILL best to use a small vice and a pillar press for your dremel.. Proxxon do a good one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfa1 Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 316- 440 Stainless Steel....1.2mm Drill bit, use a HSS bit @200rpm and use cutting fluid...not oil! compliments of the Machinist Handbook 28th Edition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davey Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 A carbide bit works fine on reps, the steel is pretty shitty to be fair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 316- 440 Stainless Steel....1.2mm Drill bit, use a HSS bit @200rpm and use cutting fluid...not oil! compliments of the Machinist Handbook 28th Edition. UB- I think the 1.3mm would work a little better? The genuine springbar ends measure at 1.2mm, and you'll want a little wiggle room to allow the ends to fully extend... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfa1 Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 Randy, of course you can use either depending on how much compliance in the bore you wish. I was just chuckling about the 10,000rpm and a drill bit, it melts them right down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 So.... 90,000RPM is a little too fast then? Damn... I was wondering why my lugs were melting off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetsons Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 (edited) The Snap-On cobalt bits must be darn good. I drilled the lug holes of my TW Sub at 5,000 RPM (slowest setting on my Proxon dremel)) and none of the bits melted or worse, snapped. Jet Edited June 14, 2006 by Jetsons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest avitt Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 Wow, lots of advice here...some of it conflicting: cobalt vs. HSS vs. carbide, high speed/low torque vs. low speed/high torque, oil vs. cutting fluid... Just wanted to back up my recommendations with some results: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAHLER Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 ALL SUGGESTIONS WELCOME You try to decrease the speed and to constantly cool the point. You for instance use fat derived by the silicone (I hope that it's written so in English) to prepare the part to perforate. During thew work you directly sprinkles oil spray on the point that turns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.