It's not the size that matters...

[tenacious_b]

Yeah, how about that for an opener?

This is the story of my journey to become a watch collecter, and how my views on watch size have evolved over the years.

Well, let me start by saying that my journey into the world of watches has been an odd one. When I was a kid, I wanted a Seiko like my dads, and I got one for a birthday, and didn't end up liking it, so it sat in a drawer until last year when my dad cleaned it up, replaced the crystal and now wears it as part of his watch rotation. I got an original Casio G-Shock when I was 10, that was lost in a moving box for a lot of years, so I never got much use out of it. When I was in college, as a father's day gift, I splurged and got my father ad myself a couple of nice swiss army watches - I lost mine in a card game, and dad still has his. Then it happened - one of the guys at my apartment complex in college had a fake tag and was passing it off as genuine. Had some crap story to go along with it, and I half believed him at the time, not knowing anything about watches. Looking back, it was not only obviously fake, but the kind that we routinely make fun of around here. But, the bug had bitten me nonetheless, and I found a gas station on the outskirts of town that sold them openly. These were really crap pieces, many obviously made of tin or some base metal.

Fast forward a few years, and I discovered the world of higher end reps through the most well known network of scam sites and attached rating site, where they were selling Italian made, 37 jewel, platinum yachtmasters for $1,700.00. It took me a couple of years at that time, but I saved up the money, but never got up the nerve to pull the trigger, even though I was utterly obsessed with the notion of owning one, to the point I would dream about it. That was a lot of money to me back then (and still kind of is), but I just could not bring myself to do it as i was certain it would end in tears. So, I went on my happy way and tried to quench my passion by buying a couple of invicta's early models that looked like the sub and yachtie. Those were great watches, and got some comments, but there was still the tinge of disappointment that they were not what I wanted.

Fast forward a few more years, and I accidentally discover some semi legitimate Panerai Homage watches called International Watchman Marine Divers. I was intrigued by the crown guard design and began obsessing over it. I contacted one of the re-sellers of these watches (watchrick) through a low end gen forum, and he was out of stock, and said instead of waiting for new stock and dropping $500.00, he pointed me to RWG 1, and a whole new world opened up in front of me. I read and questioned for 2 months, and then finally took the plummet and ordered my first panerai from Eddie Lee. This was my only watch for about a year, and so started my love affair with big watches. Note that all the other watches I've mentioned to this point have all been typical 38 to 40 mm watches (save the casio that lived out most of it's years in a box). Well needless to say, the Panerai 029 turned me into a large watch elitist, and I could not bring myself to buy the little bitty yachtmaster I'd always dreamed of.

This continued on for the next 3 years as I added 2 Breitling SOSF's, and at one time up to 4 UPO's, a tag Aquaracer, an Arktos GMT, Pam 063 and on down the line of large case size watches. The absolute smallest I was willing to go at the time was the IWC Ingenieur and the IWC S7evin. However, I reached a turning point with my views on size when the GMT II C was first introduced. I was so smitten by this watch, but I thought the case size was going to be a deal killer. I finally did purchase it, and was amazed at how nice it and normal it looked on my wrist compared to my other watches. It was much more comfortable than the PO or the SOSF, or the Arktos, and I found that I wasn't as "aware" of it was I was my other watches. So, long story short, I have come full circle from starting this hobby based on the lust for a 40 mm watch, and I currently find myself in love with my GMT II C. I wear it so much that I have actually gotten rid of all of my other watches over the last 6 months. A couple of weeks ago, I got the new milgauss, but got rid of it due to the utter freakishness of not having a date window.

Now, after all of this, I am actually wondering if the Deep Sea is too big for me. I will likely get one, and I hope I love it as much as I love my GMTIIC, and if I don't, I'll help it find a home with a friend or here on the forum. I am just really surprised at myself. I went from never noticing watch size to be fanatical about big watches, to falling in love with a small watch to the extent that I never wore any of my other watches and got rid of them all. Has that every happened anyone else here? Epilogue: I am waiting for someone to purchase, receive, and post pics of their WM9 yachtmaster. Although I will likely try something nutty like putting a GMTIIC bracelet on it, if ever get one.

Anyway, I rarely post that much, but hit a slow spot in my day, and thought I'd share.

Happy Holidays,

Bryan

[TeeJay]

Thanks for taking the time to post such an awesome story

I think I've just made the same journey myself. After spending the past year wearing nothing but PAMs, I've found them leaving me totally cold, and I'm back wearing my Omegas. I have to admit, the GMTIIC has got my interest. If I was going to wear a Rolex, I think it would be that one, but, the visibility of the dial, compared to the Omegas, is still the deal killer for me. Not so much a case of the size, just the visibility of the indices and hands. Maybe I will pick one up at some point, but, I think for now, I'll stick with the Omegas Not too big, not too small, but just right

[freddy333]

Interesting story, T.

I latched onto the big watch fashion trend early on in 2000 with my 1st Pam. But, almost immediately, I began feeling like I was wearing something out of a Dick Tracy comic book that shouted 'Hey Everyone.........Look at my BIG WATCH' every time I entered a room. So, after buying a 2nd Pam (thinking that the discomfort might have stemmed from my not having sufficient Pam-variety, which ultimately proved not to be the case), I sold both (along with my other clunker, an Audemars Royal Oak) & decided that classic-sized watches -- whether trendy or not -- are more my cup of tea (I prefer that people see me before they see my watch).

[cableguy]

Great read!! I went down that route too.

I own a UPO and a SFSO that I hardly wear as both are large and heavy for wearing while working. I really prefer my EXP II or my Sub as they sit on my wrist almost invisible.

I've been debating on getting rid of the SFSO since I dont wear it as often as I could.

I cant wait for April to come around for when I can get my Franken 6263 serviced and wearable!

[TeeJay]

Interesting story, T.

I latched onto the big watch fashion trend early on in 2000 with my 1st Pam. But, almost immediately, I began feeling like I was wearing something out of a Dick Tracy comic book that shouted 'Hey Everyone.........Look at my BIG WATCH' every time I entered a room. So, after buying a 2nd Pam (thinking that the discomfort might have stemmed from my not having sufficient Pam-variety, which ultimately proved not to be the case), I sold both (along with my other clunker, an Audemars Royal Oak) & decided that classic-sized watches -- whether trendy or not -- are more my cup of tea (I prefer that people see me before they see my watch).

Thanks, amigo The funny thing was, I never felt self-conscious about the size of the watches, or what others would think about the size of them, my issue, was literally overnight, just like a light-switch being flipped, I suddenly felt no connection to the watches. In a sense, it was the feeling one might get trying on a friend's watch: The appreciation of the watch itself is still there, but, there's always the understanding that it belongs to someone else. That's how I feel now about my PAMs (especially my 127, which spent nearly half the year in a jewellers) I can still put it on, and think "Yep, that's a nice, clear dial, nice and easy to tell the time..." it just does not feel like it's 'my watch' anymore. The Omegas, on the other hand, even the X-33 which I was never particularly fond of till I fitted a Seamaster rubber strap, just feel like 'my property'. It's not the size issue either, as I'm still happy to wear my Planet Ocean Big Size, it's just an abrupt termination of connection to the PAMs. Oh well, I've still got the watches I bought with my gran's inheritance, so I'm happy

Great read!! I went down that route too.

I own a UPO and a SFSO that I hardly wear as both are large and heavy for wearing while working. I really prefer my EXP II or my Sub as they sit on my wrist almost invisible.

I've been debating on getting rid of the SFSO since I dont wear it as often as I could.

I cant wait for April to come around for when I can get my Franken 6263 serviced and wearable!

The SFSO is a watch I love the look of in photography, but when I tried one on, it just didn't grab me, as I felt the dial was too small in comparison to the case-size, like putting a Submariner dial in a Planet Ocean Big Size case

[tenacious_b]

I broke this up into paragraphs, to make it an easier read.

[b16a2]

Great post. I seem to go through periods where I prefer smaller watches to larger ones and vice versa. It's good being in the rep game because I can cater for these changes.

[tomhorn]

I have a small wrist, so anything bigger than a 44mm looks stupid on me. I bought a cheap Invicta at 47mm just to see how it would look, and it hasn't seen the outside of it's box in 2 years. I stay away from most Breitlings for this very reason ... they just look like a chunk of steel on my wrist, not a watch. It's too bad really, because there have been a number of excellent examples of them that have come out.

My current rotation stretches from my gen 38mm TAG Classic 2000 Automatic to my 44mm PAM 063 GMT rep. The two watches that I think fit me best are my IWC 3717 (42mm) and my Ebel Discovery Chrono (43mm). Sometimes I do think the TAG is too small, but it does still have it's perfect times to go on my wrist. I doubt I would go smaller, unless I was picking up a vintage piece like a Patek or Vacheron.

The 'big watch' is likely a trend, and trends come and go. The classics stick around, so I'm sure the 40mm mark will always be there.

[RobbieG]

I'm pretty opinionated on this subject, but then hey - this is an opinion forum and aren't we all opinionated about things right? So to that end I'm sure many will take issue with what mine are and I'll look forward to hearing your and taking it all in. That said...

I have a big wrist and anything over 44MM looks stupid on me too - and most everyone too IMO unless they are really big dudes in terms of overall stature. Size is absolutely a trend and it is already starting to come off a bit. Actually, it has been quite some time since its peak according to manufacturing consensus. Even Omega is leading out with a 42MM watch in the current edition of what is no doubt THE watch movie of the ages. Rolex has and probably always will lead the pack in terms of setting the standard and the baseline sizes from all brands will likely float around the two general median sizes that have been for quite some time, 40MM for sports watches and 36MM for dress watches.

Despite all the "hot" and "in" watches - even in the boom, the vast majority of watches made for men continue to fall in the 34-42MM range with most dress and otherwise slim strapped watches being 36-38MM and most sports / casual falling in the 40-42MM range in terms of sales - even at the peak contrary to popular belief. No offense to those who love big watches, but it really is a fine line and most people look pretty silly with giant watches on. Not to mention huge watches especially in SS or gold with bracelets aren't very comfortable to wear either. Fashion doesn't always make alot of sense. It was also considered cool (and maybe it still is) to wear jeans below your a*s cheeks with your boxers in full view. While that fashion may be correct it certainly doesn't mean it won't look or feel silly. I would also like to offer that I think there are exceptions to these generalities of course. PAM's are a great example in that they are historically big by design for function and for robusness and readability. But mostly, they didn't grow into a fad. They were always that way. That makes them much different in my eyes than most of the large watches out there that are (pet peave of mine) just wonderful original designs from brands that literally just blew them up in a boringly linear fashion to meet the perceived size requirement needed for market share. For pity's sake if you are going to put out a big watch - so be it, but at least take the time to design the watch to be big and to always be that size. Smaller watch designs do so why should big ones be any different? Don't just take a perfectly good design and add 4MM to all the parts for crying out loud. I won't pick on anyone on particular here, but I'm sure we can all think of about a hundred that fit that bill. Some brands WAY more guilty than others...

Lately I like to ponder and share these two photos as examples of how wrist size and/or overall size conception is usually not all that objective and that a less drastic range of smaller to larger gets the desired effect without going overboard and risking looking like a clown. Not that you always will or anything beyond a certain size, but why run the risk? Anyway, the illustration here is that given my wrists are 7.5" I doubt many would say the Datejust looks small on me - although I think the watch looks smaller without long sleeves for the record. Likewise, I doubt many would say that in order to be stately and masculine and powerful and sporty - my Aquatimer need be larger than its 42MM size. I think the contrast of these two photos shows that even for guys with fairly big wrists in terms of raw numbers, the range of options between 36MM and 42MM is more than adequate. And as I said, at least you don't run the risk of ever looking silly because your watch is obscenely big.

.02

I have a small wrist, so anything bigger than a 44mm looks stupid on me. The 'big watch' is likely a trend, and trends come and go. The classics stick around, so I'm sure the 40mm mark will always be there.

[tenacious_b]

Thanks Robbie; excellent post!

[Usil]

Great read - thanks for shairing.

I have had similar feelings through my life and got truly obsesive when I moved to Paris and saw my first gen Breitling Navigator (posters all over Paris several times a year). When I discovered RWG and found out I could buy a replica Navigator I bought it. Sweet watch and I still have it after 5 years. Then Panerai became the rage and my view of watch size shifted. I went in search of my 1-pound watch with my 187 and an added 26mm PAM bracelet which, when combined, was massive on the wrist. Then I slid back to IWC for awhile and liked how the watches felt, not obtrusive, but nice on the wrist. So now, I bounce back and forth from my 'small' LV to my medium IWCs to my larger and heavier Breitlings to my larger still Panerais or my Railmaster - and on and on and on..

And that is what I like about the rep world. It allows me to do this. And it is a lot of fun making my selection in the morning.

Usil

Edited December 19, 2008 by Usil