RobbieG Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Well here it is. I finally had the chance to clean and shoot the only watch in my current collection that had never been photographed. I must say the light was very challenging today and the few pics I got are OK, but not all that great. Oh well, I'll keep trying. For those of you who are unfamilar with this piece it has a very interesting GMT complication. It is in my opinion the finest and easiest to use dual time watch ever invented. The bonus of the Big Date complication is a nice extra plus. The patented GMT module is unique to UN and is used in the Dual Time collection, as part of their Perpetual Calendar collection, and as part of the Sonata Cathedral which has a countdown timer and mechanical alarm as well. Using the GMT function could not be easier. The window at 9 o'clock is the home time display expressed as 24 hour time. When at home, you simply have the standard hour and minute hands set to match the 24 hour display, with care of course to be sure you have them set correctly so that the date changes at 12 only when the home time display reads 24. When you travel, you adjust to your new timezone by using the pushers on the left side of the case. To adjust forward or backward you click the either the (+) or (-) pusher once for each hour in the correct direction. The hour hand will jump ahead or behind by one hour for each click. But here is the really cool part: When you cross midnight the date changes automatically both forward and BACKWARD. With all other watches you have to reset the date if you move backward across midnight. So with this complication you never have to take the watch off your wrist when traveling east or west to do anything. Just click the pusher when you land and you are all set. The date will adjust automatically even if you click backwards across midnite. Very, very cool... I figured out some time ago that I would always have just one GMT in my collection as I love to travel and I searched high and low for the best I could find. This is the one hands down - believe me. I also love the versatility of this piece. It dresses up as easy as it dresses down and is equally at home with jeans, shorts or a suit. A standout is the super deep and rich double AR which is typical for UN. The hands and hour indices are lumed with C3 as is also typical and the application is substantial. It glows like a torch. The hand stitched in house made croc strap is of super high quality as well and has a really cool square profile spine which is super thick. Of course the fit and finish is typical UN and is just beyond world class as usual. I will get more pics when the light is better, including some more of the case, the movement, the deployant and strap, and the blue enamel and white gold crown. In the meantime, enjoy these first few I managed to get today... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grilly Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Wowza! That is one awesome watch. Thanks for sharing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
By-Tor Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Amazing watch & amazing pics Robbie. That last pic nails it... you're the king of wrist shots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lazarini Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Very nice and useful watch indeed ... the shoots are top... this is great 2nd nardin with the maxi diver u have... Thx for sharing, Laz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbieG Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Thanks brother. I have great guys like you on the forum as inspiration to keep my chops up. Funny that the wristy is the best of the bunch. I killed myself trying to get the others but that super diffused light just wasn't around today. I'll get some better ones. Natural light is hit and miss. Hopefully I'll get some more posed shots that really capture the essence of this one... Amazing watch & amazing pics Robbie. That last pic nails it... you're the king of wrist shots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbieG Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 If I ever get rich, the addition of either (or both) the perpetual calendar or the alarm to the base complications would be a must. Nothing like a travel watch that works like this plus has a mechanical alarm. Much better to wake up to than the hotel phone system... Incidentally, that is one of the things I love about UN. They start with a basic idea and then offer every conceivable version of it. Like the Marine line. They are all based on the 1846 ships chronometers, but they offer it in multiple sizes, dials, bezel or no bezel, chrono or non-chrono. Similarly, the GMT complication on this watch is offered in two sizes, multiple dials, and then added to with the perpetual calendar and minute repeater/alarm complications and then those are offered in multiple sizes, dials, etc. The lines look deep but they are really just extentions of a few core ideas so everyone can get exactly what he wants. I love that. Even this watch - it comes in two dials in the 42MM just for steel and several more in gold, plus bracelet or strap makes it an entirely different looking watch. Then it is available in a 40MM size with multiple dials, strap, bracelet options. Something for everyone... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceberg1459 Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 this one looks MUCH better than your other UN, i like it..nice pics too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toadtorrent Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 If I ever get rich, the addition of either (or both) the perpetual calendar or the alarm to the base complications would be a must. Nothing like a travel watch that works like this plus has a mechanical alarm. Much better to wake up to than the hotel phone system... If only the gongs on a mechanical could wake me up from my Sleep of the Dead. That is a beautiful watch Rob!! I have to say, your UN's are much better examples of the style and design potential of the brand than much of what is carried or pictured in the rep and gen world than I have seen - elegant, usable, classic. Great photos as well...and a nice description of the GMT movement. Thanks for this!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobs1971 Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 I'm speachless..... Thnx, R! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbieG Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Thanks IB. I like them both equally, but I'm sure there will be some that will like the look of this and others that will like the look of the MMD better. Very different pieces design wise and movement wise obviously. The MMD is easier to capture in pics though. This one is proving to be a bit tough. It is stunning in person and none of the pics quite nail it just yet... this one looks MUCH better than your other UN, i like it..nice pics too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellomen Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Very nice watch Robbie !! Usually i'm no UN fan, but this one is totally awesome. Congrats with that beauty @Scoobs... hang in there mate... one day you'll own this watch! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watchmeister Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Robbie- That is a stunning watch and of course your usual fabulous pictures. Much thanks for explaining how it works. I had always wondered and had never tried it in the flesh. The backwards /forward date adjustment is very cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chubbchubb Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Very nice pictures of a truly beautiful watch. I share your opinion about the superb GMT function. Thanks for posting this.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbieG Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 UN's pics that are circulating are mostly terrible. I'm sure they might get more fans otherwise. They have always been this obscure little brand who's followers all came to be loyal to them exactly as I have - by having a local AD that isn't a superstore. Mom and Pop type stores with at least one guy - usually the owner who knows a ton about the brand and has the perfect mix of stock. You can't buy UN's from pictures, you have to touch them and get to know them. Maybe thatis why they keep the pics lame? UN is one of the only independent high end brands left. Consider this Piaget, Lange, Jaeger, VC, Panerai, IWC, Cartier, Breguet, Blancpain, Glashutte, Droz, and many more are either part of Swatch or Richmont (I'm trying to focus on the higher end stuff) That leaves basically Patek, AP, and Nardin being all that is left for higher end independent companies - excluding Rolex of course. UN is the smallest of the group with an annual production for 2009 estimated at 15-18,000 units and sales of 190 Million CHF or around $160 million USD. Of the four independents it is also the least known, and survives on its reputation with WIS and collectors of creative complications. They just don't have the snob appeal of PP or AP and for that reason alone I especially admire them. They get respect not from history or huge sales, but rather from earning it very much in the present with innovations. They just dwarf everyone in the industry when it comes to recent, useable and saleable innovations. Sure thier high complications are expensive- they all are, but evertime one of the snobbier companies changes a dial and puts a touby in it they sell it for 300K and call it a limited edition. I love that UN doesn't play that game. When they annouce something new it is going to be really new and if they win an award (and they often do), you can be sure they will have earned it as they don't just have to show up to get one like certain brands. It is kind of like a lobby system and I like that UN stays on the outside of it pretty well. They play the game, but they do it with class. The bottom line is they are the underdog and they keep on coming and they do it without being big or selling out. I love that! If only the gongs on a mechanical could wake me up from my Sleep of the Dead. That is a beautiful watch Rob!! I have to say, your UN's are much better examples of the style and design potential of the brand than much of what is carried or pictured in the rep and gen world than I have seen - elegant, usable, classic. Great photos as well...and a nice description of the GMT movement. Thanks for this!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbieG Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Thanks YM. Much appreciated. And this brings up that same point again. A lot of people who haven't spent a lot of time with them may not really be all that into UN from looking at pics, etc. (not saying you, yello - you may well have really checked them out). But I do have to say again that I never really gave them a look until I really started to settle in and handle some watches to get more of an understanding about their designs and movements, etc. Do yourself a favor and seek out an AD. Some may still not really get taken by anything, but I guarantee some of you will have a kind of "Ah ha" moment and something will just click. There is nothing to the brand other than the extention of the marine chronometers to the wrist and a bunch of variants - MMD, MMDchrono, etc, etc, etc. and then the complications. That is it really. But the depth and interconnectivity of all the ideas is fascinating when you figure it all out. It is weird but it is like UN is purposefully keeping secrets and never really saying what they are about. It is sort a discovery process. Never seen anything quite like it with any other brand... Very nice watch Robbie !! Usually i'm no UN fan, but this one is totally awesome. Congrats with that beauty @Scoobs... hang in there mate... one day you'll own this watch! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeeJay Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 That sure is an awesome watch, bro Thanks for taking the time to do the pictorial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceberg1459 Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 UN's pics that are circulating are mostly terrible. I'm sure they might get more fans otherwise. They have always been this obscure little brand who's followers all came to be loyal to them exactly as I have - by having a local AD that isn't a superstore. Mom and Pop type stores with at least one guy - usually the owner who knows a ton about the brand and has the perfect mix of stock. You can't buy UN's from pictures, you have to touch them and get to know them. Maybe thatis why they keep the pics lame? UN is one of the only independent high end brands left. Consider this Piaget, Lange, Jaeger, VC, Panerai, IWC, Cartier, Breguet, Blancpain, Glashutte, Droz, and many more are either part of Swatch or Richmont (I'm trying to focus on the higher end stuff) That leaves basically Patek, AP, and Nardin being all that is left for higher end independent companies - excluding Rolex of course. UN is the smallest of the group with an annual production for 2009 estimated at 15-18,000 units and sales of 190 Million CHF or around $160 million USD. Of the four independents it is also the least known, and survives on its reputation with WIS and collectors of creative complications. They just don't have the snob appeal of PP or AP and for that reason alone I especially admire them. They get respect not from history or huge sales, but rather from earning it very much in the present with innovations. They just dwarf everyone in the industry when it comes to recent, useable and saleable innovations. Sure thier high complications are expensive- they all are, but evertime one of the snobbier companies changes a dial and puts a touby in it they sell it for 300K and call it a limited edition. I love that UN doesn't play that game. When they annouce something new it is going to be really new and if they win an award (and they often do), you can be sure they will have earned it as they don't just have to show up to get one like certain brands. It is kind of like a lobby system and I like that UN stays on the outside of it pretty well. They play the game, but they do it with class. The bottom line is they are the underdog and they keep on coming and they do it without being big or selling out. I love that! UN seems to appeal the people who have passion, interest to seas,boats and ships. my dad(not a watch guy) got friends who are ex-captains (like himself) or ship,yacht owners and i've actually seen couple of UN's on their wrists, mostly blue colored maxi marine or similar type..all rather conservative people...and nowhere else i've ever saw a UN on anyones wrist...the brand got a "captains-watch" concept, like yachtmaster but whole brand i wouldnt put UN in same class or even compare to Patek and AP. UN is more like corum, a special brand.patek,ap more commerical and higher end.. but i personally prefer neither brand over AP, i find the design of UN and corum little tacky. i love AP, its highest end but still has a young and cool character Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sander Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Oh man... I almost love you pics as much as I love the watch. Really great choise you made there. Have fun wearing it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikellem Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 What a beauty at a reasonable price... Thanks for the great review and of course...Wonderful Pics... I have sold off all my gens in the past few years, and I honestly would consider a Gen UN one day.. Thanks to you! MM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbieG Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 UN seems to appeal the people who have passion, interest to seas,boats and ships. my dad(not a watch guy) got friends who are ex-captains (like himself) or ship,yacht owners and i've actually seen couple of UN's on their wrists, mostly blue colored maxi marine or similar type..all rather conservative people...and nowhere else i've ever saw a UN on anyones wrist...the brand got a "captains-watch" concept, like yachtmaster but whole brand i wouldnt put UN in same class or even compare to Patek and AP. UN is more like corum, a special brand.patek,ap more commerical and higher end.. but i personally prefer neither brand over AP, i find the design of UN and corum little tacky. i love AP, its highest end but still has a young and cool character I wasn't putting them with AP or Patek in that way. I was just naming independent small companies. UN is not in the same league as the big three (PP, AP, VC) in terms of old school vibe. That was kind of what I was trying to say. We don't need another one of those. Although they should work as hard as UN at the craft. If everyone in the industry worked as hard at innovation as UN we would have a LOT more interesting stuff then we do mechanically - that is for sure. UN doesn't want to be in someone else's space and that is how they stay alive without a "lobby" so to speak. So that said, if not for the "fun" designs you speak of ironically (which is genius as they occupy their own space marketing-wise) they certainly would be technically ahead of them all. None of the big three have come close innovation wise either historically and certainly not presently. Like the visual appeal or not, noone can touch them in terms of technological innovation in the last century. Everyone else is just rehashing the same old stuff. One thing is for sure and that is if UN ever decided to integrate all their technology into completely traditional presentations, all the big boys would be shaking in their boots. But UN isn't interested in stealing anyones thunder and they have always done their own thing. I suspect they will always be more interested in that side as opposed to conformity. It has worked for them for a couple hundred years now so why change? UN is also unique in that the Marine line has sort of typical sports watch pricing and sells to the same people that buy Rolex, Omega, etc. - the more run of the mill buyer but a little more sophisticated as they have to be sought out by discriminating buyers as they are not huge dealer networks. But their complications are as costly if not more costly in some cases than the big three they compete with directly. And they earn those dollars as I said through superior innovation. Many people know UN for the Marine stuff, but with WIS they are really known for complications. GMT +/- Perpetual, The Freak (carousel tourbillion), Royal Blue Toubillion (bridgeless movement set in crystal), Sonata Cathedral, The lost art of Cloisonne enameling art, Minute Repeaters like the Ghengis Khan with moving automaton figurines, Trilogy Set (astromomical complications which measure the position of the sun, moon and stars in the sky) But UN and Corum are not even in the same league my freind. I have to draw the line at that and respectfully correct you. Corum does things just to de different and goofy. Nor has Corum even done one technical thing coming even close to the least of UN's achievements. I wouldn't put anything UN does in that space at all. Their designs are different, but definitely not novelty. That said, I has an AP Millenary and that was no more "interesting" design wise than they strangest of UN stuff, with the exception of the Freak maybe. A well made piece for sure, but nothing that can't be had with any brand. When it comes to tradition, I'm more of a Vacheron guy, but that is another thread... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikellem Posted January 27, 2009 Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 I personally disagree with Iceberg. IMHO, UN Maxi's are gorgeous. They sell extremely well I have been told, and are not even close to Corum. Just my personal 2 Ct's though.. Robbie, I am with you...I personally think the UN line is fantastic and a great value for the money... MM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbieG Posted January 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 Yeah, the Corum statement isn't really opinion, but fact. They just aren't a serious watch company. And objectively speaking having owned a Millenary, I don't think UN is any more "fun" than AP design-wise. And because of AP's out of the box designs (which I love BTW), I can't really put AP with Patek and VC either. I think of AP kind of on its own like UN. Patek and VC and Breguet and Blancpain in particular are all direct competitors for traditional designs. Personally, I like VC the best. Everyone has their favorite of those. I know Bytor likes Breguet the best for instance. Again, I only wanted to point out that there are just three serious watch brands left besides Rolex that aren't part of a conglomerate and UN is one of them. You have to admire anyone who is independent. They all have to earn that living - and I do think UN earns every penny with its dedication to the advancement of horology - and they finance that mission by selling the Marine line which is their trademark. And a trademark I might add that was once again earned to the fullest by literally owning the marine chronometer market from the mid 1800's through the early 1900's... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b16a2 Posted January 27, 2009 Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 Nice to see some pics of this one Robbie, I've been looking forward to it for a long time It is quite possibly the nicest black dial watch on leather strap I have seen. Some manufacturers fail to make a black sophisticated watch look 'different', but with the added complications (that don't make the dial look fussy) this is one of the nicest! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbieG Posted January 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 Very true. They nailed this one. Rarely do black dialed strapped watches remain dressy and still dress down well. This is the exception. Conversely, any watch with that configuration that looks great casually can't dress up. And regarding complications you are right. One of the things I don't like about complicated watches is busy dials - saves me a lot of money as I don't like many of them at all! This one is a nice balance. 4 complications (small seconds, date, 24HR home time display, jumping hour hand) and the dial is totally uncluttered - plus they managed not just a date but a 2 disc Big Date as well. You never look at it and think that anything is oberdone or our of place. Believe it or not, the step up from it looks like it might be in pics, but again in person it really isn't. I'm talking about the GMT +/- Perpetual, which is the same base watch basically with the addition of the PC functions. It is one of the most uncluttered perpetuals I have seen with a number of dial options which would be nearly impossible to post here, but here are two... Nice to see some pics of this one Robbie, I've been looking forward to it for a long time It is quite possibly the nicest black dial watch on leather strap I have seen. Some manufacturers fail to make a black sophisticated watch look 'different', but with the added complications (that don't make the dial look fussy) this is one of the nicest! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbieG Posted January 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 Oh, and I almost forgot, for MMD fans who want a perpetual, there is an option for them too - of course as usual the stock UN pics do it no justice with the golf ball effect pics, but in the flesh it is amazing and reasonble too - again many different dial options as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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