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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/30/2016 in all areas

  1. Hi guys just thought I would post a pic of my 6yr old Carrera , still going strong , can't remember what site but obviously long gone now,you hear so many bad stories but I had a good experience . Tagman1
    2 points
  2. Guys please don't laugh at me. I am so proud. Until now I had a hard time to even remove a link from a bracelet with screws. But today I opened up my TC, removed the movement, changed the gasket, pressed on a new crystal and fixed the bezel spring which was somehow messed up from the beginning. And all that without f***ing up the watch. I made a pressure test and all is fine. Yeah!!! Thanks to all you guys. I could have never made it without this forum.
    2 points
  3. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  4. Well, I went for a Yuki 7206. After some modding it didn't turn out too bad. You'll find the story here: http://rwg.cc/topic/177949-yuki-7206-bracelet-no-longer-accepts-gen-spec-bars#comment-1450950
    1 point
  5. The new cartel case is very good and a little cg shaving and lug hole drilling makes it even better and is a very cheap option. I can vouch fot clark hands but instead of spending that much for a cwp crystal buy the ofrei t-19 from g-s it is simply amazing and when I compared to a gen one I didn't see a difference in clarity at all!
    1 point
  6. An expandable rivet bracelet (e.g. 6636) has links that spread apart when a force pulls at them. The links are held together by internal "springs". When the force is removed, the links retract to original length. The links of a 7206, 9315, 93150, etc remain fixed when a force is applied. Non expandable bracelets encompass the vast majority of Rolex bracelets.
    1 point
  7. Early garden stroll More things to come.
    1 point
  8. " "Since I want to build a 5513 based on a cartel case with a yuki dial I want to ask the experts which of both dials is more accurate (font, indices, spacing etc.)." I posted this before but I'll put it up again...the last pair of 1680 dials I got from Yuki a year or so back had lettering that looked like it was printed with stripes rather than solid lines. Do not know about their 5513 dials. Sort of like this: //////////////////////////////////////////// You had to look at the letters under 7x or 10x to see it but it was there. It made the letters look like they had a grain instead of being a solid line. I do not know if this was just done on a few dials or the beginning of a trend as I have not ordered anything since then. Anyone with a newer Yuki dial take a close look and see if it is printed like that. "Question for you guys - after reading the sales thread with the "lost but now discovered" vault of mbw offerings, which would serve as a better base for a 5513 - one of those mbw or the new cartel? Are the stock mbw crystal, dial and hands ok or do they need to be replaced like these Cartel ones do? The two would be neck and neck price wise if you could use all of the stock components." Be sure to read up on MBK cases if you plan to put a '5512/13' together using a genuine movement. Using an Eta 2846 is much easier when making an MBK 5512/13. Cartel cases are a LOT less $$.
    1 point
  9. When I had an extra 160xx case, I built a 1016 ...
    1 point
  10. Just managed to catch the cherry blossom. More things to come.
    1 point
  11. Should have been a volcano or ceramic diver but will do with this half transformed FC diver (polished case, matted crown, and all gaskets greased. Just waiting for a 2AR sapphire and maybe a new cyclops. More things to come.
    1 point
  12. My companion for this trip. To the Treasure Island of the East. Hopefully she will be transformed after this trip. More things to come.
    1 point
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