Pugwash

No obvious c0ck-ups?

It's just you. Shaved everything and fake boobs is a look you'll grow out of when you've seen a bit of the world.

It's worse etiquette to play a real-or-fake game if you already know the answer.

It depends. Is he American or British? Oh, they're French, so it'd be pronounced however you think it should. Ask Simon Buret and Olivier Coursier, the band members, how it should be pronounced.

You mean Eric Weiss from Alias?

Yay! This thread is over! Woo!

Good idea!

A couple of days, Voldemort.

The Big Pilot (and others with that cal) do stop at the end of day 7.

Ok, after much deliberation, I'm wearing this: ...apart from on a Bob For Breitling black strap.

Cheers, mate! I'm no The Zigmeister, but in a few decades ... Rob, watch your back! Ha!

I use toothpicks and a prodinator: Or, two toothpicks: Don't forget my IWC bracelet sizing article: http://pugwash.cat5.org/articles/gst/

I'll have to open my Fortis to see my 28xx gen. My Tissot has a much older auto movement.

You remove the rotor to make things easier. It's a 2 second job, so why not? As for the spring, I scavenged one from a dead 187 I got for the case, along with a screw for the plate over the spring as my 3717 was delivered with only one screw installed. Oh, that reminds me. Stephane's movement appeared to have a spare screw floating around inside. Yes, a screw that simply shouldn't have been there fell out of the movement! It was the same as the rotor screw, so one probably dropped in the movement during construction. Stephane, I just saved your watch from seizing for no apparent reason sometime down the line. This goes to show that no matter how much better the QC is getting, you're still relying on a Chinese worker more concerned with units than quality. I understand what The Zigmeister is on about more and more. If you like fairy tales about how good replicas are, don't learn how to take movements apart. I'm dreading what I'll find when I start taking movements apart properly.

The date changed close enough to midnight for it not to be a problem. I did remove and replace the chrono second hand, though, as it wasn't perfect first time. There are two parts: a spring and the shield. You can see the spring in the top middle of this pic:

First photo: 15:58 Last photo: 17:43 So, under two hours, including changing camera battery, taking pics, etc.

When in Yorkshire, drink bitter! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bitter_%28beer%29

Most likely, those ten better films relied upon techniques devised by Orson Welles in Citizen Kane.

Any 22mm bars will do. Mine aren't bent.

Great for a moonwatch.

York is in Yorkshire. The best bitter in the world comes from Yorkshire. Try this one: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theakston_Brewery

Stick a hand to a post-it to place it on the post. Make a hand pressing tool using a toothpick. Press the hand on You can use Rodico instead of a post-it if you prefer. Both little chrono hands on And the sweeping seconds One toothpick method for fitting hour hand. Or use a custom tool Note bent minute hand. This is an IWC speciality to reduce paralax errors reading the time. On it goes Set the hands until the hour jumps and that's midnight. This watch jumps about here: The second hand has a bent tip too All on! See the angles? Disaster! The chrono second hand isn't millimetre perfect! Let's remove it and refit it. And now it's perfect. Put the spacer ring back on. Note the pushers. These can fall out. Please don't lose them! Drop the case over the movement, after a judicious use of Joe, obviously! Fit the rotor back on Then the first cover Remove the o-ring Get the grease out Grease the o-ring Refit the ring Case spring Put the caseback on Tighten Check it out... looks good! refit the bracelet with a prodinator Check the chrono resets perfectly ... and wear it well! You're done

This is a step-by-step tutorial on how to change the datewheels on an Asian 7750 copy. I'm performing this upgrade on an ETA 3717 replica provided by Stephane for this very task. There are a lot of pictures so please let them all load before starting. Also, when replying DO NOT quote the whole post as you'll make a lot of enemies that way. We don't need to see all the images twice. Firstly, you'll need tools. These are all the tools I used: From left to right, top to bottom. * Toothpicks (invaluable tool from which you can fashion ad hoc tools), silicone grease (not essential), a movement holder, Glass Bowl. * Tweezers, push-pin-poke-thing, awl, screwdriver (that's a Bergeon 1.2mm, but 1mm would do as well), hand removers, rodico putty, Joe the Blow toothpicks again, Romy and Michelle's finest invention - post-its. * Case opener, greaseproof paper, Cloth * Watch box pad, Leatherman Wave. Oh, and here's a better view of the bowl. I'm going to let the pictures do the talking and, if as promised, they're worth a thousand words each, this is a whopping 76,000+ words long. Here's the watch and wheels: Open the bracelet using a toothpick and a pusher. Store the parts Open the caseback Note the use of a spring and inside cover to hold the movement in. This wavy circular spring and the stem are the only things holding the movement in place Take off the rotor Remove the stem. If you can't do this, you have no business on the dial side. Tip the movement out onto a piece of paper Store the case and caseback under a dust cover. You really, really need to do this on the 3717 as the AR coating inside the crystal should never be touched. Put the movement in the holder. Open the dial clamps. One of these clamps was actually broken, showing replica QC at its best. Remove the hands. Using post-its to protect the dial. small hands too Then lift the dial off. There was tape as well as clamps, which is why they can get away with a broken clamp. Movement without dial: The day wheel just lifts off Note this spring. I've lost one of these learning how to do this, so please be careful. These are the screws we'll be removing Here's a technique I learned to not lose the spring. Put a clump of rodico putty over the visible bend like so. remove the previously mentioned screws and the plate they hold in. This is the only fixed part of the movement we'll be removing. This lever makes the date roll over neatly. It's not held in with anything, so be careful. Gently lift off the date wheel on the left and slide out to the right. Be careful not to ping out the lever. Here's the base without the wheels. Use this as a reference if any pieces pop off. Put in the ETA part on the right, under the change mechanism and work it in on the left, carefully. I'm using a post-it and thumb to hold in the lever so it doesn't fly awaywhile I'm replacing the spring that worked loose. This is everything put back Put the covering plate back on In place, all tidy. Put the screws in and remove the putty. All tidy. The day wheel drops in neatly Get ol' Joe out for a blow, but be gentle as you can easily lift the day wheel with Joe's gusts. Put the stem back, drop on the dial (with clamps).

... or use this link: http://pugwash.cat5.org/ETA/