chefcook

You need a C2 gasket. The WM9 V1 or TW Subs come with a C1 which is too flat for Submariners.

I really like the Tudor Chronographs but somehow prefer the newer models with sapphire crystal. Here in Europe it is considered the poor man's Daytona but I think this does not do justice to the Tudor Chronographs. They were the first Tudor model that was not a copy of a much more expensive Rolex model and was the first step to emancipate Tudor from the mother Rolex. For the kind of quality you get with a Tudor they are still inexpensive when compared to similar watches with an ETA inside. The Grantour Chronograph with a 7753 has a MSRP of 2740 € and usually you can get a 20% discount on them. Compared to a IWC Fliegerchrono with 7750 the Tudor is not expensive and probably the better looking watch. Hey - it uses the same movement like a 10k Euro Hublot What is much more disturbing is the price increase over the last years which does not only apply for Tudor but also for Rolex. When I bought my first Submariner No Date 14060 it had a MSRP of around 2650 Euro. The same watch now has a MSRP of 4950 Euro only ten years later. Same with Tudor: The last 79280 Chronographs were sold around 1500 Euro and now five or six years later the price for its successor went up to 2740 Euro!?? Doubling the prices between 2001 and 2011 pushes Rolex and Tudor out of their original price range and when the pricing could be considered reasonable a few years ago the watches now are ridiculous expensive for what they offer. Within a year the Deep Sea went up from 7100 to now 8300. The 116610 LV now has a MSRP of 6650 - nearly 2k € more than it's predecessor 16610 LV a year ago and that only for a solid bracelet, a fancy clasp and a ceramic bezel?!

Hand Stack: Hour - GMT - Minute - Second Sorry, a lot of misinformation here regarding the part numbers. According to Rolex Part catalog R20 from 2003: Crown: 24-603-0 6mm!!!! Tube: 24-5330-0 same as for 5.3mm crowns Spring bars: 23-12200 (same as Sub 16800 or 16610 with lugholes, NOT the same as 16610T). Crystal gasket: 29-295-2 (same as 16800 / 16610 / 16710) Crystal: 25-295-C2 (same as 16800 / 16610 / 16710) Bracelet: 78360 Endlinks: 501 There never was a 16760 with SELs as the 16760 went out of production long before SELs were introduced. The 16760 was only available with the Coke insert. The dial is the same as used in early 16710, so only glossy with white gold indices and tritium. Dials are interchangeable between 16760 and 16710. All 16760 were marked SWISS-T < 25 The caseback is different from the 16710, it looks more similar to a submariner case back but it has a different part number. I would not go the 16760 route as there is no accurate case. The 16760 really deserves her nickname! The case is much thicker than a 16710, it is comparable in thickness to a Sea Dweller 16600. Even the crown guards are much thicker than on the 16710. So, if you have the parts for a 16760 - make an early 16710 from it

UNfortunately I have to correct myself: It has a 2836-2 inside, not a 2824-2...

unfortunately my camera is not very good, but here is a try on a closeup of the dial. The bezel is gen like construction. Genuine inserts snap right in, but you have to grind down either the inner bezel surface or the crystal retaining ring to make it rotatable. C2 crystal gasket is a must for correct crystal height. The SELs honestly are the best I have seen on reps in my whole life. Nothing compares to this. Yep, it did come with an ETA 2824-2.

The crown position is not nearly as much of a tell as the bad end links and overall under average quality of the V3... The Movement in the TW is the same 2824 as an the V3

Hello guys, just to show you how much better the TW sub will be over the WM9 V3: Only gen parts on this are crown, pearl and crystal gasket. Unfortunately the TW subs come with a C1 gasket, which is incorrect for the Sub. Swap it for a C2 and the crystal height is perfect. Standard crown is a little to round, so I replaced it with a genuine. Pearl is a known problem on every rep (even on the V3 it was crap). Other work on this watch is a full relume (done myself with Superluminova C1) and a better bracelet, which actually is a hybrid from the TW bracelet (end links and clasp) and a noob bracelet (for the hollow mid links). For all in all about 350 Euros I have to say that I had much more expensive reps that were not nearly as accurate. The difference between C3 and C1 - C1 really is that much darker!

The TW is the same as WM9 V1. I still like the V1 best. It had the best crystal, the nicest dial, the best end links of all rolex reps, the best clasp... It needs some mods, but it definitely is a very good starting point. Considering the lower price I'd take the TW in a heartbeat.

They could have taken the asian 2892 as the gen uses a 2892, too. The gen really is stunning, but the rep is nothing I'd spend a single cent on...

While looking at a Concord C1 on Josh's site I stumbled accross this Louis Vuitton Tambour ladies watch: http://www.1-pc8838.com/lv10001-tambour-ladies-leather-swiss-23692-p-530.html See the movement, ETA 2369-2. I've never heard 2369-2 before, so I tried google and found this very interesting movement catalogue: http://www.christophlorenz.de/watch/movements/e/eta/eta_2369.php?l=en Mr. Lorenz states in the text that the 2369-2 was produced between 1952 and 1966

Yes, but I removed it.

I would not swap for a clarks crystal. The V1 crystal is probably as good as it gets with a rep crystal and to be honest I found the gen crystal not much of an improvement. The etched coronet was very well done on my V1, the crystal dimensions were correct and the quality is very good as well.

There is no specific 16800 / 16610 insert, both use the same part number. If it has a SL pearl it is 16610, if it has a tritium pearl it can be from either 16800, 168000 or 16610. Very nice watch, I am building one myself these days

A friend used to drive Range Rovers for years, then got a Range Rover Sport and had all the problems you mentioned. According to the dealership (my wife bought her Jag from the same dealer) the full size RR less problematic. I was always impressed how heavy the RRS is compared to other SUVs of similar size and therefore simply was a slow car. I'd prefer a similiar prized Tourag or Q7. Maybe there is a good deal on a Cayenne - the new Cayenne has a stunning interior.

I just asked my buddy: It was not six months ago, it was end of october. Bracelet was $520 and end links $80. Those are German prices, so they include 19% sales tax.

I have my second Cayman at the moment. Started with a 2.7 two years ago which I traded for a facelift 3.4 (dealer demo car) half a year ago. If you live in a country with speed limits and do not track your car the 2.7 is powerful enough for quite good fun on bendy roads and motorways. Make sure it is equipped with the sports package; otherwise it will only have a five speed transmission which means very long upper gears (even the 2.7 tops 160mph!) and will cause excessive use of lower gears and high revs on track or the autobahn. The facelift 2.9 has the six speed tranny as standard and with the slightly increased capacity it is more entertaining in low revs. If buying a young or new cayman is within reach the 2.9 definitely is the better choice over the old 2.7. The differences on the road are not so big between facelifted and old 3.4. The new one has more grunt, the old car sounds nicer (not louder!). The radio and navigation systems on the MK1 Caymans sucked. No bluetooth, no ipod / iphone connectivity! Actually the newer navigation stuff would be reason enough to get a MK2 Cayman. I agree that the interior is not amazing for a $60k car, but only if you do not opt for the full leather interior. With full leather it is simply amazing. Porsche is the only big car manufacturer in the world besides Bentley / Rolls Royce that still does all leather work in house and the full leather is worth every penny. The options list definitely should include the following for all versions: - PASM active suspension - Full leather interior - 18" or 19" wheels - Sound package plus (standard speackers suck, Bose is better but more expensive) - Xenon headlights Nice, but not necessary is the sports exhaust. Even with standard exhaust it sounds wonderful. The ceramic brakes (PCCB) are a no go. Extremely expensive, pedal feeling somewhere near pudding, will break on the race track. Replacing all four discs and brake pads is around $15k. The Cayman S is my daily driver and it does about 20.6mpg. Trunks are well big enough, even my golf clubs fit in the back. I can fully recommend it When it comes to cornering and fun a good alternative could be a Nissan 370Z or a Corvette. Both have interiors that even in best trim are worse than the caymans standard trim but both are fun to drive, too. The Audi TT is only a souped up Golf and drives like that and Audi A5 or BMW 328 / 330 / 335 basically are two door sedans.

A friend bought a new one from an AD about 6 months ago for around 600 USD / 450 EUR including a set of endlinks. 750 USD seems very expensive...

Same here in Germany with different ADs behaving completely different. Some were not willing to sell parts without sending the watch to Rolex for verification and Wempe (biggest jewelry / watch dealer chain here) is displaying bracelets with price tag in the shop windows and of course is willing to sell them.

Most gens are damaged too which is one of the reasons for folded bracelets in good condition being so expensive today.

Always when I am going to buy a Deep Sea a new version is released and I am confused which leads me to not buying anything.

Yeap, you have to file down the lever.

If we would only see a movement with bridges in P9000 appearance the 382 would be a nice rep. Bronze is only slightly heavier than steel, so a good coating might do the job. The most realistic hopes surely are on the 356 Daylight and on the Radiomir Black Seal Logo as both are based on components that mostly already exist in rep world.

Some more news on the Panerai homepage: www.panerai.com Check the 356, a new Daylight Chronograph! http://2011.panerai.com/en/PAM00356-Luminor-Chrono-Daylight-44mm.php Not only is it beautiful, it should be easy to rep for our suppliers.

It depends on why it has stopped working. If nothing is broken and it just needs a cleaning and oiling I would get it serviced instead of buying a replacment that will most probably need a service in a few years anyway.

Yeah, and wonderful