offshore

Like most parts houses, you need to know exactly what you are seeking. i had researched outside the site, to ascertain model and movement numbers, but once i took that info to the site it was very quick and easy. Had a similar experience with a part for an ETA in a Tudor. Got the correct info here, and then went to Cousins, and just ordered as it was in stock. Again quick easy and relatively pain free. I'm sure they won't all be that easy, but it works for me ATM. O/S

Or you could just register another, second , user name! I'm sure that would attract some attention. Then just stop using the 1st. Although you may find the 2nd, doesn't work as well.

Has anyone had to chase down a difficult to find part lately? I was just hunting a part for a pocket watch, and logged into Cousins. Must admit I haven't spent a lot of time there lately, but they have a self service system,. that actually works. I found the item but it came up with Nil stock, so I submitted an enquiry. This came back within a few seconds- We will endeavour to complete your quotation and make it available to view on your 'Self Serve' account within one hour (normal working hours) of your non listed request. However, if we have to consult an external supplier the information may take longer, possibly up to a day. YOUR DETAILS: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX NON-LISTED ITEM REQUESTS: 1 x Watch Parts Branded, Waltham, Waltham Movement Parts (Category ID: 540) Waltham Calibre Number (Attribute Name ID: 240) : 14S 2210 Swiss Part Description (Attribute Name ID: 225) : Pallet Fork More Information: Jewelled pallet for a Size 14 s/n 16690682 model 1897 required It is likely that we stock these item(s), but they are not yet listed on the website. This information will be available on your 'Self Serve' account. CONTACT US: Should you require further assistance, please don't hesitate to contact us. By telephone: +44 (0)1708 757800 By mail: Cousins Material House Ltd Unit J Chesham Close Romford Essex RM7 7PJ. United Kingdom. Website: http://www.cousinsuk.com Company Reg No: 04890253 VAT Reg No: GB 247 5044 63 Many Thanks, The Cousins Material House Ltd Team So I logged back in a couple of hours later, and there was the answer...In stock, and about 5 quid incl post! Cousins certainly have the most comprehensive download library for parts sheets, and tech info anywhere, and now this system for chasing old redundant parts will mean I will be spending a lot more time logged in there. Exemplary! Offshore

@JK, Pins are on their way. Those pins from the Tags, and i think some omega, are the solid pin with the tube style collett in the centre? Much harder to push than normal split style pins, and yes, you need a long pin to push them out, because you must get an end past the collett in the centre, so an 18mm bracelet needs at least 10 -12mm push pin. Diameter of the pusher also can play a part in degree of difficulty. O/S

You must have a great technique Nanuq! I had heard that one before, but when I tried it ALL the pins jumped out! Bloody big re assembly job I tell you!

Absolutely nothing wrong with the pusher,as long as you spend the time to line up the pin coming out of the bracelet. In fact we sell that one in our tool kit, ( just not with the AF logo.) It is even easier if you modify the "out" side of the press like I showed in the tute. And yes, you can spend 10 quid for a Swiss case hardened part, or replace the bent pin with the shank out of a fish hook for a dollar or so. In fact if you buy a big enough hook, you can get 2 pins out of it! O/S

PM me your addy and I will shoot you a set of punches courtesy WB! O/S

@Jkay, The punches which come with one of these blocks, have piss weak punch pins in them. With some heat you can pull the old pins out. Then go to your local tackle shop, with a pair of callipers in hand, and measure the diameter of the shank on various fish hooks. Fish hooks are case hardened AND tempered, and will stand more "punching" than the soft things initially supplied. The reason you have trouble however, is explained in this tute I did some time back. Anyone who has owned and used a pin press to push pins out when adjusting bracelets, will know that the pin portion of the press is very susceptible to damage; they are very easily bent! One of the main reasons these pins get bent so regularly, is that when pushing a pin out of a bracelet, much attention to where the pin coming out of the bracelet is contacting is needed. This also applies with a bracelet block and punch set. If a bracelet is at all off centre the pin coming out will meet up with the other side of the press, and the push pin will bend. (I have deliberately set this up to show the offset issue!) Bracelets need to be lined up so that the pin being pushed comes out in the gap or hole provided. I use a diamond wheel on a Dremel to open this gap out, Not the tidiest of jobs, but VERY effective! Another problem is that the actual pins, whether they be in a screw in or fitted and in a screw press or in a punch being used with a bracelet block, AREN’T ALL THAT TOUGH. If you can remove the old bent pin, consider measuring the diameter and length needed, and going to your local fishing tackle shop, and purchasing a few hooks of the correct diameter material, with enough length in the shank to cut a new pin from. Fish hooks are highly case hardened and tempered, and prove a great replacement for pins which really aren’t all that durable. Try those tips and see how things go, but a hardened punch will make life a lot easier. O/S

Get one of these, and put it into a vice, or screw it to your bench! Offshore

Anyone ever see one of these? I had one land on my bench today, for a motor overhaul. The early model motor did one revolution/minute...exactly! That top rack of balls is 1 per minute for 5 minutes, it then tips to the next level which is 12 lots of 5 minutes = 1 hour, and down to 12 hours. Then start again. 29 balls required. They are a most intriguing "toy" O/S

Have a great one Val! One of the absolute top level members here. Offshore

So don't forget to register at Watch Bitz for your RWG discount! You need to register, and then log out until you receive a verification email. Only then will you be receiving the RWG discount level. Offshore

Try this- http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=276 Offshore

Danke muchly! O/S

Not right now, but I can get them. But there is no 2550 at ETA either?? I need a parts sheet to see part number and a parts breakdown. O/S

I have a Ladies Tudor Geneve, fitted with a movement clearly marked 2554. The movement does not have an ETA marking, although it is ETA in appearance. But ETA do not list this number! A solid search via Google only raises some spurious "Bargain FS adverts" but no solid information on a Tudor fitted with a calibre like this. Does anyone have any info, or a cross reference please? Better still a parts list. Offshore

You obviously haven't had the pleasure of connecting with Bob! (Or maybe they have locked him away)

There is no issue with Ofrei, (The company) But we do not need Bob Frei (The owner...he must be 'cause he tells you!) handing out schoolmaster lectures and then hanging up on you. Even if you are calling from overseas trying to sort out shipping anomalies! Sorry, but Bob Frei is a tyrant. He was in partnership with Jules Borel. (Frei & Borel) no wonder Borel got out! One could only hope for the worst for someone like him! O/S

In fact she hasn't got a site showing here now. Wonder what is happening? Is she not a TD anymore? O/S

Before you bust up too many more, i would suggest getting some of these- http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=15 Then you will know what will fit, and what won't! The issue with the laminated crystal on the Proplof was causing delamination due to a 0.100mm variation in diameter, so callipers will always give you answers you otherwise won't see. And unfortunately you may see large tolerance variations between gens and reps, so the callipers will be very handy! Offshore

How did you transfer the funds? V important! Well , I would cancel the sale, and ask for a refund. And at that time seek a response within 24 hours.. As you had received incorrect shipping info, I believe you are well within your rights to cancel and claim a refund. Obviously the method of funds transfer may become a major point in the ongoing 'discussions". Offshore

Gold Coast.

In 10 years on the forums, I have never posted a WC. When this outstanding brand gen arrived this week, I felt it needed to have some air time. Purchased for obvious reasons, and I guess the novelty will wear off pretty soon. But for now- Great brand! Offshore.

If you are only going to press one crystal, you should try to hand press it first. Nanuqs method sounds a bit radical, but it is quite practical. If you don't have access to a hockey puck, try this method. Fit the crystal so it sits squarely above the plastic seat, and take the case in your hands with your thumbs on the case back. Now push the crystal up against a solid vertical timber surface, a table edge works well. Now push firmly, (even use a bit of body weight behind it) and have a look at what you have achieved. (This works well for straightening crooked mounted crystals as well) You need to know the seal is undamaged, and if you have a new crystal, that it is the correct size. This will work a lot of the time. If you decide to buy a press ( get it from me ) make sure you get some bigger dies from 40 -50mm with it. Most of the "standard" presses don't have big die sets. If you do need a bigger set, we have a couple or three- http://watchbitz.com...d&productId=313 http://watchbitz.com...d&productId=265 http://watchbitz.com...d&productId=418 There are differences with each of these sets, and they fit different machines...read the description carefully. Offshore

Pho, I believe the process used on my Omega PW is one using gold leaf or rolled gold. It is certainly far superior to an electroplated gold finish, as is evidenced by a watch which still looks like new after more than 50 years. I understand the gold buyers are prepared to buy "wrapped" jewellery, as they can relatively easily remove the gold from the interior metal (I'm guessing with heat) In fact I purchased this PW from a gold merchant for basically his perceived gold value. There seems to be some thinking which says any solid gold watch (regardless of make) is worth its value by weight in scrap gold plus $200.00. I was offered some Omegas in scrappy condition at around $1500 ( and didn't think they were worth that money) and a Geneve with a solid bracelet had a value of some $4600 due to the amount of gold. (I passed on that one as well.) I did get a nice solid 14k Longines for around $700. You do need to weigh the case only, not movement or glass. So there are some decently priced gens around, but you need to find those in good condition, not knocked around scrappy stuff. Back on subject.- The gold buyers are also buying a lot of "rolled gold" jewellery and scavenging the gold- dunno how they arrive at a weight for the gold content, just by guessing, and telling the seller thats what its worth I assume! O/S