cskent69

They look really interesting. If it has the Venus copy - does that mean that the subdials are correct? What do these cost in US dollars?

B, 19mm

Where do you buy that? I did not see those at Ofrei.....

Oh - you are right. Just noticed that. Thanks!

I was looking at all of the narrow subdial spaced watches like the Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, Tag Monaco, etc. Does anyone know if the 2894 would actually work on all of these? I know that the Tag Monaco and a few others are based on the 2894.

Does the 2894 have the same subdial spacing as the Zenith El Primero? Are they interchangeable on a Daytona for instance?

A thought occured to me - could you buy a rep Daytona and replace the movement with a 2894? i know that it is an expensive proposition. Just wondering if it would work. Does anyone know?

Mark, do not give up yet. Let this hang out there for a little while (perhaps not everyone is on due to the holiday here). Also - perhaps it would be worth a reminder to those with 063's that the hands we have on our watches were actually meant for the 029. They are too long!

What size drill so you use?

Try Snap on Cobalt Drill bits, wire guage, number 55, I think.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P6...amp;dir=catalog

fantastic

Yep - count me in for a full set of hands, plus one extra GMT.

Yeah - some are starting to get close. The closest dial I have seen lately is actually the PAM 88 and 89. The "A" is pretty close. It has problems with the GMT hand and the L SWISS MADE L - but otherwise - it is pretty close.

It is simply Helvetica. Each line has different kerning and height and width, here is the exact logo which was laid over a scan of a 111 face.

Helvetica? Unbelieveable. Ok - the request goes out - please someone fix the font on the following dials:

PAM 063

PAM 253

Pretty please? You will have many engrained and new buyers who will come out of the woodwork

Ubi - you are killing me with that thing. Please let me know when you have it ready for mass or even minor consumption.

I think that is what is needed. If you have this as a font (which must be non-standard due to the A's) and can give that to the manufacturers - then they could fix the dials. I bet they are using something like Arial or Hevetica or something similar.

What font is it? It is one you can purchase or did you modify one?

I bought one from one the our trusted dealers. They are ok. Not great. The "o" in Rolex on the dial is not done quite right and the date window did not have the best alignment. That said, the dial is small and is it not really easy to see. I gave it as a gift and no longer have it - or i would post a picture.

The Zigmeister - believe me, I will choose to send you my watches every time. AND, I have had an a BMW engine rebuilt (with other "enhancements" at the same time). The cost of the re-build was more than the value of the car. But I like my stuff - I am not a "lease" kind of guy.

My gen Seamaster needed servicing after 5 years. All i can say is - I wish I knew you back then when that watch needed servicing. Oh boy. Preventative servicing would have been much cheaper.

Some manage their possessions differently. To each their own.

I could not agree more. It really irks me. I have resorted to buying the gen ETA datewheels to at least get them to be centered. I have them replaced on servicing.

Count me in for 3. Thanks

Mark - please count me in for a 2893 for 063. Thanks!

Great setup! This is what i have. From your pictures, i also see that you get the "bunching" or extra material around the edge. I have not figured out how to finish the hole perfectly yet - can you also provide some suggestions on how you polish them at the end? Counter sinking, etc.

I agree. I have a large drill press - having a drill press which you can set the speed makes drilling the lugholes easier. You can even hold the case in two hands - which makes it much more precise. Once you have a drill press - the next thing is the quality of the hole that you drill.

I have to say - that my first shot - i blistered the edges around the hole by going too fast. I am going to try and use some files to smooth it out before bringing out the dremel. I think that going slow is the key and backing our alot to allow the extra material to escape.

The Zigmeister, that is good advice. I will give it a try. I think that you are right about the drill bits. One per hole. When i think about what I did - the side with the initial holes came out perfectly. The sides that went second had the bunching. Thanks for the quick reply!

The Zigmeister, I am experimenting with drilling lugholes. One thing that happens is that you can get bunching around the hole on the outside (i think depending upon how fast you try to drill the hole.) When you fixed up the hole - did you use a larger bit to countersink? Also - how do you polish around the holes afterwards? Any detail would be much appreciated. I want to get that nice polished look that you have. The dremel polish compund is not really meant to smooth out edges. Thanks!

This has me stymied. After checking out all the usual suspects - I can not figure out which 19mm springbars these could be for the ends to come out that far. Are they the ones that are springy on only one side?

Thats gen. If not - i will buy one the minute you tell me where.

Wow - that was fast. Great pictures. It seems counterintuitive regarding the endlinks. I am afraid of another Planet Ocean debacle. Thanks for the pictures.

Not being ngative here - but is the distance of the bracelet from the endlinks supposed to be that far? Anyone have a gen picture?