cskent69

Not to continue this tortuous line of questioning - but could these "7750's" in the frist posters link from e-bay be non daytona modified "New 7750's" that we have been talking about (not the B1's, etc).

Sorry to continue....

Black and Red - all the way

I just got from New Orleans today and the watch was in the mail "Ultimate LV from PT"....

I have an EL LV with mods by RBJ from early last year.. frankly there is no comparison..

The PT watch looks almost as good as genuine.. in fact if it was for the cyclops / data mag being slightly off center and not level it would be perfect.. I was even suprised to see the crown when unscrewed looked very much like the geniune.. the SELS on the bracelet are the tightest I've seen...

Man on man you gotta love reps...

MacDad

Post a pic comparo!!

Folks, wow - that is good information. As a newbie - I can tell you it is really hard putting this infromation all togethor. Especially when many times you do not know where the stuff comes from. It would be really nice if all this info were better organized...... THanks for the great start....

Finepics - i guess this just means that I have to send more of my stuff to you for upgrades.

ridnwind, Now you got me going again. Is Josh's PAM 2B on his website? I can not find it. Am I blind?

I like reps - even with the little flaws (depends on the flaw). The problem is the failure rate. Why not simply have versions with actual ETA movements, etc that actually work. I know that alot of us like the thrill of the hunt - but we would all be better off if we knew what we were actually getting. Then we can simply work on the design issues.

For instance, is there a way to do a group buy of the "new" 7750 that The Zigmeister has reviewed. That way we can all just swap out the crap ones that we have? :cc_confused: :cc_confused:

I also have expensive Gens and cheap Gens. I with that other guy from PMWG. Have you all seen the new Citizen with the ecodrive connected to the mech watch. Really incredible. Design - a little iffy - but the tech is absolutely cool. No winding necessary but you still get the sweep. Course it is no Omega.

The Zigmeister, If you wanted to put a real ETA 7750 (6,9,12) to put into the Breitling Avenger Chrono - would that fit? Are those available for sale anywhere?

Are you winding me up???

It's maybe a 1/100 th of a mm and it's sooooo bad you have to get gen dials. You would need a loupe and a good eye, and a lot of knowledge to spot it, whilst comparing to a gen and even then it's open to debate.

And you just can't live with it, sorry I hate flaming but this is plainly pathetic......

Dude, it is a point of observation. Lots of folks on this board do EVERYTHING to make their reps as close as possible. Given that this is noticeable to anyone in the KNOW - i was asking what other people think. I personally don't care about nearly 75% of the stuff that others care about - like aging, crystals, backs, etc - but the logo font on the dial is one that matters to me. To each their own.

Lighten up.

Has anyone noticed that the font on EVERY Panerai rep has a flaw? I have bought 3 of these now. And the dead giveaway is the A. Genuine Panerai's have have the horizontal part of the "A" a tad higher than the rep which is a bit lower. Rep "A"s look fatter. After i found this - i was really upset and sad. Now I have to find Gen dials........

Did you ever figure this mystery out?

I just got mine today and can't figure out how to get the pin out for the life of me.

There's only a screw head on one side...I've tried pushing through the whole with the screw removed. Didn't use too much force, but I wasn't getting it to budge that way.

Any help is appreciated.

Best Regards,

IG

The previous post from trunk21 is absolutely correct. You have to take both of the screws out of every link. The "pin" does not actually come out. it is past of that piece of metal (the link). When you unscrew both of the screws in the link - it will all become apparent.

Thanks guys. Really appreciate the help. I was hoping that it was a flat dial. I find that the more complicated a watch is - the less likely it is to look gen. Also, it creates more for something to go wrong. I wonder if everyone finds the same thing. Thanks again.

Are any of the subdials recessed on the gen of this watch? Can't tell from any of the pictures online at gen sites.

Board guru's - I am considering purchasing a PAM 029 or PAM 063. I know that there are lots of folks who have one. I have done searches - and have not been successful. Has anyone done a comparison of the gen versus rep of either of these? The pics on our dealers sites loook good - but was hoping for someone with both to comment.

please count me in for 1. Thanks!

I really like the Chronograph. How correct it the face - I was trying to check it out on the website. The version on the website does not have teh "AUTOMATIC" below the logo. Or - is that a different version. That date wheel is a little too off. How easy is it to change that? I see dates wheels - on ebay for instance - but who knows if those will fit on this movement..... Can't buy it till that gets fixed.

I don't know if I am allowed to reply here, but I will anyway.

You ahve to remove BOTH screws on each link, and then they slide off both pins simultaneously. You cannot take the links apart by removing only one screw per link. Simple as that...

Enjoy!

Hey - thanks for the reply. I will give that a shot. In looking at the links - that does not look obvious -Will let you know. Thanks again.

The Zigmeister,

I have recently acquired a rep Breitling Ti Chrono Avenger. I need to resize the bracelet. Not sure if you are familiar with the band on this watch - but when I unscrew the pins, and get the little screws to come out, I am not sure what to do you next. It does not look like the typical "push the pin out" routine. It might be - I just don't want to break anything cause i see threads, etc.

Sorry if this is a dumb question.

Any advice?

I have been hoping to see this kind of up close review. Excellent.

The fundamental problem is the movement itself, and the demands on it due to the running seconds at 6.

I have covered this topic in great detail, here are two posts that explain it all out, have a read...

Daytona

Asian Daytona...

Unfortunatly the cost of the watch does not have any bearing on the cost of servicing a chronograph movement, commercial shops typically start at $450 and up for servicing a chrono model... So reasonable cost as a percentage of price, doesn't really go together...after you read and view the pics in my two above links, you will understand the undertaking required to take one of these apart and service it...

RG

Zigga, there are nearly $1000 Daytonas on the Aspire site. Are these any different than the ones you hvae discussed in your reviews/tutorials? Also - just a question - is there any movement you can try to acquire that you could retrofit/put into one of these new Daytonas that WOULD work? Why hasn't someone just simply designed one to fit? Since they seemed to have designed revised versions of the 7750?

Ok xelorrolex,

I have found what I was looking for. i hope that this also helps you.

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=1414

Looks like the answer is - stay away from daytona with secs at 6 - even with the new movements out there.

I came to reps want r*l*xes but now I'm crazy for PAMs, IWCs, APs, Franck Muller and others!

Also, with this Daytona, I'm not sure about the reliability of the movement. Looking at the cost I am very wary of it breaking down as well.

Ok - i have never bothered to check Aspire. Obviously they have what I am talking about. Any opinion on these?

Board experts, Please help us out here. I am DYING to get a modern 2001 or 2005 Daytona, with correct dials and sec's at 6. But all this talk of the 7750 movement being good and being bad and being good is majorly confusing.

Not for my ignorant question - is there anyone selling the watch with a real ETA movement?

Are the "ultimates" the ones labeled with Nickel? what is the difference?

If you have pictures on your computer that show in a window - you can CNTL - ALT - PrtScn to capture the window. You can then do a "Paste as" into Microsoft Paint. Then you can crop the rest of the crap to get a picture - then you can save the picture into an image file that you want. Give that a shot. Hope this helps.

*cough* http://www.silix-prime.com/product.asp?id=1287 *cough*

date window is also better on this one

Ok - I'll grant you that one. I will wait till someone has it all worked out - cross, date, font, etc. Then i will make my move.