crystalcranium

Decorated bridges...blued screws...decorated and beautifully engraved rotor...I know it's a 7750 but why all of the high class touches? I wonder if Ziggy has any experience servicing this Asian movement vs other A7750s. I looked around with a loupe inside the movement and case and saw none of the crud I have seen inside other 7750s. This one is very clean. Any reason to hope for better performance or did they just put earings on the same old pig?

Had it...love Omega reps...this one's a POS. Too many problems and flaws to list.

I don't know how many times this discussion comes up but the QC dependability vs disaster potential of swimming and diving never adds up favorably for reps. Best insurance for water tightness and frugality is to keep beautiful reps and high priced gens high and dry and keep your water watches disposable and easily replaceable.

Just followed the instructions to remove the crown and stem on my 7750...perfect...I've learned that this is a 2 handed operation if you want to avoid disaster. Gentle pressure on pulling the crown...gentle pressure on the release at the same time...until it comes free. The 7750 seems to be a bit more "screw up" proof since the keyless works release is pressure sensitive and moves far less and has much less potential for disappearing under the bridge plate like the ETA 2824 and 2836 if you push too aggressively. Stem went back in the same way...straight in with gentle pressure on the button. Do not try to force it in to "click"...it wont go.

I heard from the dealer this morning who said he had similar complaints and will source replacements asap. Still have to do the watch work myself...oh no...not another keyless works disaster!!! I ordered one of the replica straps with a tang buckle...these are wonderful reproductions. I had a genuine breitling strap on my Bentley GT and this strap is about 95% of the same quality. One difference is that it's more supple, soft and comfortable than the original. I have to say that while it's not politically correct to compliment the Asian 7750 (and it's far too early to comment on it's mechanical reliability) the machining and details on this movement are very nice...blued screws!...nice cloud and machining patterns on the bridges and rotor...and beautiful Breitling engraving on the rotor...yes engraving not a sticker...with nicely finished gold in the lettering that stood up to 7X loupe inspection. It's certainly the nicest "looking" Asian 7750 I've had to date by far. Lume on the hands was fantastic...I could see them very clearly when I got up this morning. The screw off caseback is the smoothest and easiest of any replica I've worked on...we all know how annoying and scary it can be to remove a caseback with poorly machined threads...this one is smooth as butter. As soon as the second hand issues are straightened out...this is going to be one fine piece. Totally different looks on the TT btacelet (which is very well made and will be a scratch magnet) and the chocolate brown strap...both equally beautiful. The wife loves it so it has passed the "what the hell did you spend all that money on a fake watch for" test!

Got the beautiful TT Tricompax arrangement Navitimer BY-Tor reviewed but it has the backwards B on the chrono second hand. This was not indicated in the seller's pics. Anyone know how to get my hands on a correct one for the asian 7750. I have already emailed the dealer to see if he can get one but I might have to send it back.

Pics to come but the man is an artist, craftsman and gentleman. New case tube and genuine crown, "tritium" super lume that doesnt glow like fire but glows beautifully, 2mm springbar drill job and genuine springbars...I couldnt be happier.

Second listing for this item in the last 2 months. It doesnt look original for the 1665. http://cgi.ebay.com/ROLEX-ORIGINAL-BEZEL-S...1QQcmdZViewItem

Why would you want a replica of a watch that, unless you are worth 500 milion dollars or so, no one would ever buy??? I have enough trouble pulling off a $5000 Rolex

Thought he said he was taking a well deserved break for a while due to health reasons.

Last year i was lecturing board members buying an MBW was a waste of money. I now have about $650 into a 1665 GW

But this is certainly the best forum division to ask....ask that question in General Discussion and there are Ninjas waiting to do the above mentioned castration. The best advice I can give you is that almost every black dial/bezel stainless steel submariner sold by collectors on the board are of very high quality. The obsessive details debated here are not usually a problem for someone who simply wants a Sub to wear into a board room or a bar and look impressive.

thats the bottom line...well said

I think you have to mix some common sense into the purchase remembering these are the Chinese who believe that in comerce, quality control is the responsibility of the buyer. The dealer who purports this claim is a drop shipper so he doesnt even have first hand contact with the trading of his items. The kind of overhaul cited is typically a tough to come by service costing hundreds for automatic watches and close to $400 for chronographs. Again....what is your recourse if the dealer is full of crap and 4 years after you buy the ETA powered thing it needs a service and your watchmaker tells you it's the first time the watch has been disassembled.....these guys do not think in terms of repeat customers years down the line...they want your $458 now and see ya later. Its a waste of cash. If it is and ETA powered watch, they are sufficiently oiled and the assembly is QCd enough that you should get years out of one before lubricants begin to dry out and performance is affected.

Thanks...but I already screwed it once.....I got the Z-man to squeeze me in for a quick fix.

I can see the top of the button caught on the plate in the opening but not enough of it is there so I can go in with fine tweezers and grab it. Is it a total loss??? Anyone else do this gorilla job on a fine movement???

It's all but done.

I might be selling a new MBW GW with vintage lume, genuine crown/case tube and lug hole/springbar mods in the dealer section soon for a reasonable price ($625 or so????). I haven't decided yet but keep your eyes open.

Yeah, the Oris Titan is a rock. I've been wanting one for years....1000M WR...I don't know of another watch in the $1000 range that sports that kind of WR

Too bad one "Oh Sh*t" wipes out hundreds of "Atta boys". I'm often amazed at the 400 pound balls some people grow behind the wheel of a car or behind the protection of a keyboard. Rightous indignation...fueled by anononymity and sometimes a few glasses of wine....don't let it get to you. Hollow threats from a jackass.

Update...budget just went up to $1100 so I think the Oris Titan 1000M is the one. Not a big fan of titanium watches but it's the only 3000F+ WR watch in this price range.

First...the nomenclature is microns...not mils....mils is thousands of an inch..a micron is a thousandth of a millimeter. As for a debate over claimed vs actual...what is your point? These numbers from the dealers are meaningless. The dealers have no idea what thickness of gold the clandestine producers of the parts for replicas put on them. I get a little winded singing the same tune about replica gold but here we go again. The very best gold filled jewelry is a thick layer (or thin sheet if you prefer...not a plating) of 10K to 14K gold bonded by heat and pressure toa abrass substrate and then plated with 10 to 20 microns of gold. This combination usually lasts 20-25 years in daily use. The best non gold filled plating in the industry is 10-20 microns (20 microns is VERY rare).....most excellent gold plate in high quality commercial watches is 5-7 microns. This is a 3-5 year plating in daily use. Standard gold plate in the mass market is 1-3 microns. This is usually enough to give several years of daily us in what is usually considered expendable jewelry. Replica gold claims of 5 microns, which appears to be the universal claim (I have seen 10 micron claims....what BS) make little sense when you think it through. We all know how the Asian market does business. There is no advantage to build intrinsic, lasting quality into these things because there is no profit to be gained from it. The Chinese put just enough gold on these watches to separate themselves long enough from the eventual wear off that the owner has no recourse. If your gold plate looks like crap after 8 months....just what are you going to do? You are stuck with a screaming fake and you are going to hold a daler responsible?????? The plating experts I have consulted believe anywhere from 0.25 to 1.0 microns is pretty much standard for cheap asian watches and jewelry. Why would you believe these watches are something special????

If I could find one for around $500...I'd go for it. They look rock solid. I'm just a little gun shy about buying a Submariner cousin. Wouldn't want to flaunt "Rolex wearer" only to have someone smirk on close inspection....but this is strictly a flash/function watch...oh my...I don't know what I want! No MCs on the bay

Wow...thank you. More confusion!!!! last night, I had switched back to the Tissot as a sure thing. Now....hmmmmmm! Doxa makes a 300M diver??? Where can I find it?