JoeyB

Did you drill the case holes before you installed the strap? The 'Retro' 16710 I got from Joshua has the case holes, but they are not drilled all the way through. They are just for looks, and it used regular springbars in different 'short' holes between the lugs. If it is like mine, using a springbar tool from the outside won't even touch the springbar. In that case, I'd try a razor blade to get in between the end a nd the lug. If that didn't work, I'd go the the extreme of breaking the springbar using the strap, but that might wipe out the strap too.

Answered your PM, Magnifying Len Large 6.9 mm x 5.5 mm $2.50 ML-L for my GMTII. I don't own a Sub with a date window, sorry.

Umm...never mind...

I bought 3 from Otto Frei, and as soon as I received them I laid one on a 25-295 C2 gen crystal to compare. They looked the exact same to my eye.

Ummm...trade ya'??

If you do depress the release button too far in, the keyless works will be messed up, and that is $25 for a watchmaker to fix. Then you won't do that anymore...

I think the dial is key to any vintage build. We can mod cases, and good, reasonably priced aftermarket inserts are readily available, ETA movements are very acceptable. But the dial has has us at the mercy of high dollar gen or overpriced "refinished' that are not entirely accurate. The advantage of your printed, and my water-slide decal is the computer. We can accurately copy and print any dial on the internet. I've made probably several hundred prints of dials now, most not even mounted, and am still learning. That is the key to making the dial, learning the nuances of your method and then reaching for perfection. The initial dials I made for my 6542 and 6204 are long gone, improved many times each. And I've even made the plastic insert for the 6542 using the decal. Keep at it, when it gets frustrating I just walk away and come back later. It seems to be addictive. There is no question that your print is the preferred method, as will be an engraved 6542 insert that's being worked on now. Your success will open up many more opportunities for others to build with. Oh, and as freddy said. Otto Frei has blank, white painted dials for the ETA movements. At about $4 each they save a lot of work.

Yes, that could be. I'll find out!

Yeah, but not the nekked ones you like! How are you doing? Good, I hope.

Hey Onze! No boobie pics here! But these are plenty nice.

I have tried two different hands. So I went to the Jules Borel site to see price and availability on the second wheel. The schematic showed it, about $5, and the center tube. And the lube. So I thought to myself, 'LUBE!!!!' Took a pin and Moebius 9010 and applied to the hand's post and in the top of the tube around the second wheel post. And...SUCCESS!!! freddy, thank you so very much for all your help. It is most appreciated!

5.3? Does it ever stop!!!! OK, this is the watch I was trying to emulate, making it a 'Submariner' rather than a 'Sub Aqua'. I simply liked the look very much. In the write up, Stefano said they used both the 5.3mm and later the 6mm crowns. Good old Rolex! And I'd bet if you sent it in for service Rolex would have replaced it with a big crown anyway. It's enough to drive a sane person crazy! Lol! Stefano Sub Aqua

Thanks, but too late! It ran for 14 hours, perfectly. I very carefully put it all back together, pinions, dial, hands and it stops at 3 now! I may just order a new second wheel and be done with it. But at least I'm learning.

That is certainly your choice. But it is my understanding that the plastic crystal are glued in on gens. Is that not right?

That looks like the one I modded into a 6204, and where I got the dimensions of the crown tube from. Mine should have the 6mm + crown, but I still have the big crown on it until I find one that doesn't cost more than the watch did. Mine reads 5508- 6538 in between the lugs, and with just a bit of modding, I think it looks very good.

Sorry to hear that. You might be able to salvage the project by using other than gen parts, but that might not be what you want. The big crown brevet on Josh's no crown-guard Subs have a smaller diameter crown tube than the crown/tube I got from David. Davids' tube measures 3.8mm where it screws into the case. The one on the Sub measures 3.8mm on the threads into the crown. That suggests that the threads into the case are a smaller diameter. As to the crystal, Clark's can help. If you get the right diameter you can use UV cement to hold it in. I did that on a watch for my girlfriend, and after curing filled the gap with UV glue and cured in the sun again. No leaks and it is in there solid. It was sanded down to the height needed, and I added a cyclops to it. It's a thought.

OK, I went in, removed the cannon pinion and inspected it. Looks round to me, but I think I might have seen a little something in it. Cleaned it thoroughly and oiled, and put it all back together. I fully seated the second hand, and it is running. If it's still running in the morning I'll put it all together and see where it is.

"Pictured above is a 1957 “Tropical Dial” GMT-Master, property of the original owner, estimated at $27,000 – $38,000. It comes with the pilot’s Pan Am cap, briefcase, lighter, ashtray and flight instruction manual." I happen to have a 'Tropical Dial" GMT-Master, I am the original owner-builder, and I can include an old rucksack, somewhat crusty beret, my old Zippo, an ashtray from Caesar's Palace, and an M16A1 manual for $3800...

Yes, that was my thought as well, I tried two other second hands with the same result. Thank you for telling me my thinking is right. If there is something in the tube that the second hand wheel goes through, and that seems to be the case, it must be toward the top as I thought of it being seated too much as well. I installed the second hand just on it and it stopped. Being at the top should make it easy, but I can't see it now. I think that might be part of the movement body. It looks to me as though I'm going to have to remove the second hand wheel at minimum to get a better view. I really didn't want to do that. But then a new career could be the result! aaaarrrgggggggggh!!!!!

As we discussed in another thread, I am now having some problems with my year old ETA2893-2 movement. It runs, but will stop at the same spot every so often. I've had it running for over 12 hours, and then for only one revolution. I see no rhyme or reason to it. I have it running now, and stopping occasionally, with the movement out of the watch, hands and dial and GMT canon removed using only the second hand. I tried two other second hands with no change. I took a piece of cellophane tape and just laid it on the very tip of the second hand post, not inside the tube at all, and it runs, with no stopping at all. This tells me there is something inside the tube holding it up. I'm no watchmaker, just a fiddler, so does anyone have any other ideas? Or, will I need to tear (terror!!) into the movement?

Yeah, it's got to be something in the post or tube.

It's still hesitating or stopping with the dial and all hands off except the second hand. Is there an incantation for this, or do I have to sacrifice a virgin? Here, kitty, kitty, kitty....

Maybe he wears 3 watches... Yes, out of the case, with the dial installed, with or without the other hands. And any slight touch frees it, sometimes for several rotations. As i was typing this it hesitated and then continued. Gonna remove the dial and see what it does.

OK, it runs, sorta. The second hand hiccups or just stops at the 6 second mark. Smooth as silk around the rest of the dial, no interference from other hands. I even removed all the hands and ran the second hand only and it does the same thing. The slightest bump or touch gets it moving again. 6 is the devil's number, isn't it...

I agree, but this was a new ETA 2893-2 movement I bought to build the 6542 with.