projectologist

The new poster hasn't logged on since yesterday when he made the post. You would think he would have been back by now to see if he got any responses. Just sayin'

If he thinks it's gen, seems like his first post would be at a gen forum if he wanted to know it's current value. 28A = 1998, 15 years ago.

Good stuff! I recently put together the same 61D build... great minds think alike

Location is per gen of the L SWISS MADE L. It's an E series dial and this is where the LSML is located, very close to the edge.

Here are a couple of things I've done this past week. I'm always experimenting, hey it's a hobby, gotta have some fun with it Dial in the first pics was just placed to give my friend an idea of what the watch will look like built up. Noob V3 case set and lever I blasted. A couple of phone pics for now... Always liked the DSSD case backs with the Ti insert, so tried it first in SS. May go Ti next time with some kind of engraving (wish Ti bar stock wasn't so expensive)... maybe an OP logo...

This one arrived back yesterday. Nice to have it on the wrist again today. PAM 61 fantasy build...

Ah... so you mean clear as in no engraving of any kind. It may be possible to grind or machine off enough metal to have a clear surface to engrave on. Most rep case backs engraving is pretty shallow.

My method only requires removal of the swan neck, dagger and the retaining clips. Mod is done with the inca-bloc system in place. All that's removed is everything above it. The balance spring is safe.

Thanks, by ghetto I meant the method used... it wasn't pretty I'll post a tutorial of the next one and after I figure out a more practical method of putting the pieces back together.

YMMV but it kills me to pay a TD $80-100 for a piece of metal approximately 3mm in dia. I'm not dissing dealers or modders as it's an awesome mod if you don't like messing with movements or DIY in general. I just like tearing things apart and figuring out how they go back together. And while it's in pieces, I like to see if I can make it closer to OEM finish-wise. Next time I do this I'll polish the swan neck before putting it all back together. Also, I cheated with the swan neck set screw by breaking it in half and re-installing from both sides spread apart internally to make it look a little longer. Still enough threads in the swan neck to extend it more than in the pic Next time I'll take more pics of the exact method and put a tutorial together. While macros will show that the bevel isn't quite as refined as OEM, it's still passable with casual viewing.

Wonder why Angus didn't post a little teaser about this one? A lot of us were waiting for this one

This says it all!

A project to bow down to....as good as gen in my book.... the attention to detail says it all!

I know you were not being critical. I just wanted you to know everything is correct. All of the numbers on my watch are correct for the N series. The E series are different numbers. The numbers change every year with each new 111 series Maybe someone else can comment and explain it more clearly to you.

Man o man, talk about a major step forward! Problem solved. How-to's like this are my favorite kind of post

All of the numbers are correct with the PAM 111N I posted in my first post. The OP number 6727 is correct for the N series serial number. All of the numbers are correct on this caseback for the N series 111 You must be new to Panerai... the numbers change every year with a new series designation starting with the next letter of the alphabet corresponding to the year of release. The "O" series are showing up now.

I don't understand what your comment has to do with my post re. my 111 N series (2012 with the right numbers) build But you do have your numbers right for a 111E... here's my 111E build ...

Great gen ref. pics here... www.vannic.it Numbers/indices need to be incised then filled with lume or paint. But a very thin layer leaving the incised depth still visible.

Outstanding work and additional info from member w0lf. Good job guys!

Dirk tan strap. Final polish with buffing wheel using Dialux green premium polishing compound.

The printing on the dial is the best so far...

I did try them with other denim and it cost me dearly. I've never owned this many jeans at one time

The brown Indys came first last year and the black ones I'm taking for a test drive, but will probably be buying. Incredible quality inside and out. Still being hand-made the same way for over 100 years. Might seem daft to have 2 pair of the same boot, but they're all I wear these days. I've never owned a more comfortable, better fitting boot before these.

Started out awhile back with a spare Noob V3 case set. Got the dial and movement (having visited The Zigmeister for the Inca-bloc anti-shock mod) and case back from another member. J series hands from my parts box. I polished the bevels and teeth of the ratchet and crown wheels as well the edges of the bridge plates. Both wheel screws were flattened and polished too. With the cg, I shortened the lever tip a little, flattened both the lever and roller bearing pins. The lever pin was re-installed slightly recessed below flush. Last, the entire case was polished to a more gen-like finish. I'm not a big fan of sandwich dials, but this one is growing on me. I may actually keep it for a couple of more weeks Some pics from this afternoon... iPhone 4 and Camera+...

This is the guy that makes the straps you're talking about... and many other unique ones. His craftsmanship is amazing. http://www.delaurian.com/id47.html