alligoat

Yes, I see what Frank and Cats are saying- this is just the old CN DRSD- if you look at the thin bezel and compare it to Cats' pic of an MBW you'll see the difference. The ironic thing about these CN DRSD's is it might actually have a working HE valve- a decent copy of the first 1665 HE valve. But on the down side, I doubt a T-39 will fit- wrong size, same w/ the bezel insert.

Your lugholes look to be well placed- that's good news. Appears to be the typical DRSD dial, but what the heck. Did you say $85? Shoot, the hollow mid link bracelet is almost worth that. Add an Ofrei (or Clark Watch Supply) pearl- I wonder if it would fit? Or pop out the existing pearl and go for the vintage look. This is the same as the new Josh DRSD, only cheaper, isn't it?

Nice comparison, Lani. Certainly a good buy, IMO considering the price and apparent similarities to the MBW's. One thing, the movement is an asian clone, not a low beat, but the 28.8K copy of the ETA. Of course, you could swap in a a gen ETA if you needed to w/ same hands, etc.

If you're going to get a modern daytona, it definitely needs to be the seconds at 9. AD's right about the subdial spacing being off, but what can you do. Of course, you might have to service the a7750, but then you'd have an even better reliable beater.

Use a 2824-2 and raise the crown position on the case- kinda like the YM from WM9. All other stuff can be fixed fairly easily (except the green lume??)

Real. Nice underline dial. Is it pre 1500? 66xx or something early.

This is one of those deals where you won't know for sure if you're getting a Swiss ETA until you buy it, and then open it up, or have a watchmaker open it up and confirm it for you. Hopefully it will be, or you can order the asian 2836 and just hope it works well. I guess if it were me, I'd probably order the Swiss ETA. If it were to give me trouble, at least my watchmaker will service it. He doesn't service the 2836 clones. If I did end up with a clone movement and had trouble, then I'd have to get a gen ETA and have him install it in the watch. To enjoy reps, it helps to have a watchmaker you can depend on.

We saw this last week in the new 1665 reps from Josh. He claims it's a higher grade of 316 ss, brighter and harder than 316L. I guess we'll find out soon enough if it's hype or truth.

A 14 grand gamble. Is someone stupid, or does it get repackaged w/ a better dial and sold for 20K+?

Very interesting. This movement has the balance bridge of a Rolex 3135, but only 25 jewels, not 31 like the 3135. Don't know why they call it the 3131. Parts of it look like an eta 2836 to me... It might be fun to get one of these and send it to the Zigmeister for dissecting!

Contact cement would be another option. It is water resistant. What about contacting BK and seeing if he would sell you a WM9 retaining ring.

Actually, the movement pics aren't too bad when you enlarge them. The balance looks good, gears look good, chrono bridge looks OK. Can't tell if there is a 722 under the balance wheel. This isn't a Phong movement and it might be legit. I'm not sure about the caseback, end pieces of the bracelet are wrong, and the dial is an admitted redial. Look at the 4 on the running seconds at nine- should have a flat-top. My guess is that people will know they're buying a franken of sorts, but I would expect a price in the 10K range. It could be a good project watch w/ a better dial.

I've seen gilt dials with gold and silver hands. These are all watches from the early 60's. Of course, I like the gilt hands w/ the gilt dials, but I sometimes woinder if Rolex really cared that much at the time. Of course, by the middle 60's it was all white dials and silver hands.

Your best bet is to keep an eye on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Rolex-16610-Submariner-Watch-Crown-Part-20y_W0QQitemZ390074778876QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5ad244c4fc This is the 7mm 24-703-0 crown for late model subs, sea-dwellers, etc.

I agree with Jkay that the WM9 Y-M is probably the best rep out of the box. I saw one today at the Houston GTG and it is very nice. Great fit and feel, correct crown position, great lume, has the 2824-2 eta movement. There's no doubt it's pricey, but the quality is there. This is a watch that'll last for years. And if you're in the CONUS, BK is the one to buy from.

Well, if highoey says it's not a gen bezel like construction, then better options would be the Euromariner- maybe w/ the asian 21j movement to keep costs down, or the old WM9V1 from Precious Time, if it's still available. Also, the reconditioned WM9V2's can be a good deal, once again, if available. I thought the new TW Bests had a gen like bezel, but maybe I was dreaming.

Removing the noob bezel is tough at best. I would recommend trying to remove the insert first, especially if it's worn and leave the bezel in place. You can remove the insert with a knife- from the crystal side, getting under the insert and prying up to break the glue bond- an x-acto knife works well. Work the knife all the way around. But here's the other problem with the noob insert- it's slightly smaller than the aftermarket and gen inserts, so you have to file the outside edge down some, you can enlarge the pearl hole w/ the x-acto knife and then glue in the WM pearl. Filing the back side is fairly easy- put the insert down on a soft surface and file away. When everything is good and fits fine, then you need to glue it back in. You have to be careful w/ the glue- use it sparingly. I clamp the insert into place w/ a die from the crystal press while the glue dries. If you do have to remove the bezel, you wedge an knife in there between the case and bezel and keep working your way around. You'll need some extra wedges to keep it up where you've wedged so it doesn't slide back down as you move around. It's slow and tedious and you have to be careful not to bend the bezel. Eventually it will pop off, but I'd figure 15-30 minutes to get it off. Good luck.

If the retaining ring hand presses on over the crystal and gasket, I would figure you will have water problems. I just put a gen retaining ring on my Euro V3 and had to use the crystal press to get it on. Haven't had a chance to get to the watchmaker to check WR yet. Used a flat tension washer from J & K watches and the old Euro bezel- very soft click and can be pulled off. But at least it's together- will check WR next week.

I disagree with Frank! This is the same dial as the WM9V1. Rehaut looks good, WM9, MBK and TWB all come from Taiwan. This watch is a good deal- far better than a noobmariner. The noob is a good beginner watch, but these latest versions from Taiwan are all better. This watch is going to have gen bezel construction. The only thing this watch might have is an eta clone movement. But that's par for the course these days. I've owned four noobs in the past, but I'd buy this watch in a heartbeat over a noob anyday. The noob is outdated AFAIC.

I guess it would be more proper to call it the 30 minute subdial- it's at 3 o'clock on the 6263 and at 12 on an ETA 7750.

That in a nutshell is exactly the problem with an A7750- you can't get parts unless you take them off of another movement and they happen to match. And using an eta7750 would require taking a part or two off of the A7750 to move the thirty minute counter from 12 to 3 and once again, it may or may not work. Hopefully your watchmaker will be able to makke it work.

Yes

Ouch, this sounds like drilling lugholes just got harder!

I agree Freddy. Since it's an MBK, I don't see how it could be anything else. Now everyone will have an extra datewheel for a 3035/ETA project.

Now that I think about it, I paid somewhere between $90-120 for my 593's for my 16800 franken.