alligoat

This is just another example of how screwed up our government really is. You just have to hope someone with some sense in the government will get this situation corrected.

I concur with crystalcranium, if you know what you want and order on-line, no problem. But I've read about Ziggy's run ins w/ Bob Frei, the owner. You probably want to stay away from Bob! If you have some questions, or aren't sure what you need to order, you might do better with www.julesborel.com/. I've had good results from both of them, but I order on line and know what I'm looking for (most of the time!)

Eddie used to have the tw best subs, but like bk says, not in a while. River still has them, or did last time I checked. You can find his stuff over at RWI.

The "open 9's and 6's" on the MBW/WM datewheels approximate the date font used on the old Rolex 1570 datewheels which were around from the 60's thru until around 1980. Other inaccuracies such as the 3's not having flat tops are more of a giveaway. The open 6's and 9's aren't bad IMO. Original 1680 datewheels were also silver, but later replacements had a white background Modern datewheels are altogether different- closed 6's and 9's and round top 3's and in the last couple of years the font used by Rolex is thinner that it was before. things keep changing w/ Rolex.

If the crown comes off, it's usually not a big deal, if you pull the stem and are able to screw it back into the crown. However, on one of my gen Rolexes, the threads on the inside of the crown stripped out and I had to replace the crown (and the tube to boot). If you can't screw the stem back into the crown, you have to try to get replacement parts- new crown and/or new stem. Or you have to buy another watch. Like predfan says, Paul has a decent deal on the Noobmariner w/ the ETA movement.

Heck, I just looked at an enlarged pic of the dial, and the m's don't even line up. And some poor fool is getting clipped for $4262!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...y0%3D%26fvi%3D1 Check out this sub. I don't like the Rolex emblem on the safety clasp, the crown guards and we all know it isn't a 116710 as listed in the description, but does a 116610 exist? Also, the guy hasn't sold squat on ebay, just this watch.

Hey kruzer, or Falco, Isn't that a pretty old dial, like early 60's, where the depth rating is above the Submariner? Looks bee-u-ti-full!

Hey Tribal, That looks like the date disc from wholesaleoutlet990! Around $40. I hope it works out for you. My watchmaker uses contact or rubber cement like 14060 recommended. Good luck!

Here's another link: http://www.watchbasics.com/rolex_watch_bands.htm The Watch prince band probably won't work, because it has pins instead of screws. You need the screws to be compatible with the original band.

I would think that it would work. You might also try The Watch Prince, http://www.thewatchprince.com/s.nl/it.A/id.799/.f I also ordered a rep band from Silix for another watch. I don't recall if they carry Jubilees. I took the original c. 1966 oyster band off of my Rolex Date and put a rep band on, so that I wouldn't tear up the original (flimsy) band- I put it in the drawer for safe keeping! You might look around cause I think there are people who can recondition an old Jubilee like you have, which would be good since it is original to the watch.

Yep, I think I read something about him being back around April 30th.

Aren't these replica cases?? And overpriced to boot! It does look like the 5513 has the old style 24-7020 tube in it. But I'm w/ Jet on this one- buy an MBW 1680 and at least you know what you're getting, since it will take gen parts. You'd have to buy a 5513 dial anyway and then you can build your own 5513.

Like MechWatch, my 1500 Date from 1966-8 era has a 1575 movement in it (marked 1570, of course) and I was under the impression that this was the standard movement for the 1500 Date. But yesterday, moelarrycu had a 1520 movt on the bay w/ a Date dial- but I would assume it's a franken deal because the 1520 wasn't chronometer rated as I recall. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...p;rd=1&rd=1

Keep watching the bay. $900-1000 is a typical range. I also assume you're looking for a 1575 movt w/ the date. A straight 1570 would be slightly less. I also think the TZ suggestion is a good one. And I agree w/ allowing a couple hundred for servicing. Those movts are 30 years old!

Hopefully your watchsmith replaced the movement tab when he looked at the watch- it's an easy fix and I've had two tabs break on me in different watches- both ETA's. BTW, you don't say what movement you have in there. Also, I'm with everyone else, put a new aftermarket bezel insert on there and I'd say you got a pretty good deal. It's a beater, just like you say. I think the cg's look fine, I just think it's the angle of the camera making the bottom cg look more angular.

Very nice! The 16014 and it's brother, the 16013, are two of my favorites. Or does that engine turned bezel make it a 16030? Anyway, great job, and using a Silix Datejust for parts is probably a good way to save some money.

FWIW, I have the beginmariner with the DG2813 and the River sub with the ETA copy of the 2836 and I plan on getting them both serviced by my watchmaker in the near future. I want to verify the 28,800 bph of the 2813 and I'm going to have him check out the ETA copy. I just had to have him service an ETA 2836 which putzed out on me after a month- just testimony to Zig's, and a lot of other peoples theory that these movements aren't necessarily in good shape when they arrive at your doorstep. My watchmaker doesn't want to service the 2813, but he said he'd do it for me. Is it worth it? Well, you just have to decide for yourself. It'll cost me $70-100 each for a service, but at that point, I guess they'll be on par w/ a true ETA rep and hopefully good for 3-5 years. I'll also change out the crowns and tubes, file the cg's and WP them, so they should be good watches at that point.

An ETA 2893-2 is what you're looking for. You can find it at www.julesborel.com/ for $182.15 plus s&h. But if you're trying to replace another movement, like a 2836 modified to be a GMT, it probably won't work because of size differences (height) in the movements and the crown/stem alignment with the case.

As I recall, I've seen 18kt bracelets on the bay for around $3K and solid gold cases for like $1.8-2K and you'd still need a dial and movement. So, if that's what you're looking for, it's not a bad price. But I can't tell you anything about the quality of the gold in Josh's rep... But for that kinda money, I'd spend a few more dollars and get a gen. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...p;rd=1&rd=1 Maybe something like this vintage Date model and put a gold band on it. Also, I've seen vintage Day-Dates in the $6-7K range.

I guess that explains the perfect crown guards, the beautiful pearl, correct date mag and position of the date in the cyclops, excellent rehaut, correct dial.... Looks great, wear it in good health and enjoy!

No doubt, freddy, there are scores of 703 aftermarket crowns and tubes. But 24-7020 tubes and crowns ceased production say around 1980, and were replaced by the current 24-7030 stuff. And a 24-7020 crown won't fit on a 7030 tube and vice versa, although the threads on the case tube which screw into the case are the same on 7020's and 7030's. Hence, Rolex updated lots of 5512-3's and 1680's with the 24-7030 series as a matter of SOP. But you had to do both the crown and the tube.

Interesting. I've never heard of an aftermarket 24-7020 case tube, so I'd have to figure it's gen as is the crown apparently, at least the numerical designation is correct. I agree w/ wightstuff about the case being rep, but you need to open it up and see if it's machined to actually accept a 1500 series movement. I've seen some 1520 and 1530 movements on the bay for $600-700 lately and if you could pick up a dial, you could build a franken for say maybe $1200-1500, which wouldn't be too bad. Oh, and trim the crown guards while you're at it!

It's 100% real. All the tell tale signs- crystal sits up nicely, great crown guards, end pieces are right, engravings are correct, bezel insert looks good, but used/aged so to speak. Seller is good- high sales and great feedback. And right now the price is great, but by Sunday, I bet this watch will be up in the $3500-4000 range, which is still a good price if that's the watch you're looking for.

Have you considered a leather strap? I have one of my Frankenjusts on a dark brown leather strap and actually prefer it to the metal band. And leather straps come in regular, small and long. And at $15-20, they're reasonably priced and very comfortable. BTW, I like Zed's idea with the pin pusher tool- if you can keep pressure on the end of the screw, and turn w/ a screwdriver from the other end, you might be able to back it out.