alligoat

Thanks, Olga, I guess at this point I'm going to have to quit calling the 2813 a Seagull movement and start referring to it as a PTS Resources movt. Do you know anything else about the company? The three movements that I have have all held up well. One of them I've had for over two years. The latest is in my Beginmariner from Josh. It's interesting how they copy the Rolex datewheel. The CHST18M looks to me like the copy of the 2892 and even has the same hand sizes as the ETA and a relatively hefty price at close to $80US. And of course, the CH1901M is the Venus/Lemania copy movement which we're all familar with. I appreciate you taking the time to share this stuff w/ me. I really enjoy the chance to learn new things about these watch movements and that's what makes this forum so much fun and a great place.

Tap 10 is the size of the threads on the stem which screws into the crown. Your stem w/ Tap 6 is larger as you've already found out. The standard size on Rolex and most reps (as far as I know) is Tap 10. There is a guy who sells V72 stems w/ a Tap 10 maybe up in Colorado, maybe his name is Michael Griffin, and I can't remember his company name. You might check w/ avitt, he's the other v72 expert along w/ ubi.

Interesting Olga, I look at the "WO" under the balance wheel and think that this movement is made by Seagull, and you're saying that it's made by PTS Resources. It seems like 6 months to a year ago when we were looking at the Seagull movements, the identifying feature was the WO under the balance wheel. I agree with everything else you're saying, but I'm not familiar w/ PTS. I look at the dg2813 in the www.ofrei.com/ catalog under watch materials/movements/chinese, but Ofrei doesn't really tell you much. Maybe you could explain this a little more for me. Thanks.

The Titoni is an ETA, probably a 2824-2, but Titoni also uses other ETa movements and the first two are definitely 2824's. The 2813 is from the Seagull watch company over in China- you can see the "WO" under the balance wheel. I've got it in a few reps and they're doing OK. You can buy them from Ofrei for under $20. How long they'll last, who can say, but they are too cheap to fix- just put a new one in. Olga's first pic also looks like the 2813, but it doesn't have the Seagull emblem. And her second pic is of the 2836 clone that is being sent to Ziggy, like the one in River's new $99 Sub. The 2813 is not the same as the 2836 clone.

The Frankenjust has been getting a lot of time in the last month. I like it so much, I'm getting ready to build a second one in TT.

There's an old saying around here in the rep world, "Stick with stainless steel and you can't go wrong." Buying a TT sub is OK, but you just have to be ready to buy a new bracelet when the original one wears thru. Probably the crown and bezel would hold up better and not be a problem on the watch itself. Also, you need to check how the the gold plating returns down the sides of the two center end links where the bracelet attaches to the watch itself. In the past this has been a bad detail where you had gold on the top of the center links and the sides were ss. This is a dead giveaway to your bracelet being gold plated. Paul's "Perfect Sub" ain't perfect, but it is a good deal, all things considered.

Rolex made two movements in the 60's-late 70's. A 1575 date and a 1575 gmt with date. And they were labeled 1570, which is the base movement they are derived from. A straight 1570 movt wouldn't have the date feature, and if it has a date feature, it is technically a 1575 movement. The 1575 date and 1575 gmt are of course slightly different, with the gmt having the extra 24 hour hand. Can you modify a 1575 date movement into a 1575 gmt? I would think it is possible, but since these two movements have been out of production for 25 years and parts availability is always an issue, I would think that it wouldn't be cost effective. And of course, then you'd be building an expensive Frankenwatch, and I'm not sure if it's worth the expense at that point. Sometimes, it's better to just go buy the right watch, like a vintage 1675.

Beautiful watches, Pug. I sure wish I had a brother in Bangkok. I guess you saved a little money in the process also. Wear them in good health and keep us posted on the mods.

I just ordered some watch straps that I saw on Timezone this week (go to the sales corner) from fredawatchstraps@comcast.net. www.watchprince.com/ is another good place. As for deployant clasps, if you want a Rolex logo on the back, ebay is probably going to be your best bet, with the clasp coming out of Hong Kong or China, since the legitimate sellers here in the US can't sell anything with a Rolex logo on it.

I vote real for the same reasons as nietzsche, plus the shape of the cg's

You might check with Angel and Jay, @ Silix. I just bought a TT sub bracelet which I'm still waiting on since I didn't spring for the EMS air!

Paul's $149 sub and sub LV are two of the best deals out there. Yes, the dial print is good, date mag is fine, don't try to remove the bezel or you'll be sorry. I did manage to trim the inside cj edges on my Noobmariner (it's the same case and dial w/ an asian 21j movt) w/o removing the case tube or the bezel. Took the dial and movt. out, used masking tape and went slowly w/ a file in one direction and wet/dry sand paper and polish. The crown is too big, but Paul's has a real ETA 25j 2836-2 and that's what sets it apart from the Noobmariner and the Beginmariner. But they're all great watches at great prices. Some people just don't realize how lucky we are!

If you're building a 16200 series Datejust, you might try the aftermarket 3135 date wheel- it's correct as far as the fonts and closed 6's and 9's. On my 16014, I used the Luenfat datewheel, which is the same as Cubic Works, as I understand. But a 16014 is from the early 80's and the open 6's and 9's are correct for that era. I used a 2836 movt. but for a 16200 series, it probably will take a 2824 due to the position of the crown tube. Hopefully the 3135 date wheel will be thin enough to work, you'll still have to glue it on the ETA date wheel. Good Luck.

The standard size for a Datejust used to be 36mm. Yesterday, I saw a new Datejust advertized as 37.5mm, this being the latest series, 1162xx. So it's a little larger. The Date is 34mm and I'm not sure what a medium Datejust is, if I had to guess, I'd say 32mm. As I recall, women's Datejusts are 29mm

Sixteen six ten Five five one three Sixteen eighty Duh, yeh, that one with the black face...

He's referring to the "m" in 300m lining up with the "m" in chronometer. Look at the gen ss dial that bklm1234 posted and compare.

I just ordered an oyster band from them last week. I guess I'll email them and see what the possiblities are of them bringing back the ROL187.

I agree, looks pretty good to me, too. Date mag is good, fills the cyclops correctly. Fluted bezel looks good, case is fine. I don't see how anyone could call you out.

I would think a Milguass case would be too small (around 37mm according to TWG and I would have guessed it was 36mm like a Datejust) and then you have to fit a Sub bezel to it. There is no easy answer at this point. You can go to http://www.watchsilix.com/ and look at the old ROL187 which is the old sorta close to a 6538 watch that Jay and Angel used to carry. Maybe if enough people showed some interest, they could bring it back. It's a good starting point. I have one which I'd like to change into a 6542 GMT, if I could just find a dial (which would have to fit in the case, but real Rolex dials might be too small).

When I typed in www.swissexpert.com, a bunch of advertised sites came up. Jomashop and othe rwatch places... So it must go by another address..... Caveat Emptor!

Damn! I even have the same watch- the 5512 (dial) and the same 5513 case w/ the same SN- 3865055. I sure hope the one bidder is a schill! I'd appreciate everyone reporting this to ebay, these frauds really chap my ....

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Rolex-Submarin...tem260081435473 Damn, and no reserve to boot! Of course, you can't really put a reserve on a $100 watch now can you?

A few dealers have sent me parts. Dials, a sub crown. A couple of times, I was ordering a watch and I think this helps. You just gotta ask. The problem is, the crown is a $5-10 part and the postage and handling is probably more than the part.

I still dream of this vintage GMT Master, the 6542 with the white dial, the desk pilot's watch! Heck, if I had the dial, I could build the watch!

I did manage to trim the cg's on my noobmariner w/o removing the bezel or the case tube. I just used masking tape to protect then both and then worked slowly and in one direction w/ the file and wet/dry sandpaper. I did remove the movement, though. I've heard horror stories from people who did try to remove the bezel- bending it, etc.