alligoat

Interesting RS, your reply didn't show up on my computer until just before I posted mine, even though it was posted 30 minutes prior, and I had just logged on. So much for my high speed internet connection! The point is, this is a pretty suspicious watch from what we would perceive to be a reputable seller. I see some of their watches as reasonably priced from time to time, esp. the vintage, more common models like early Dates and Datejusts. But I'm afraid they don't always do their homework. The kids in the back are running the show and making mistakes, maybe. Or, the owners bought a bill of goods and don't realize it. And they probably don't want to get this watch authenticated by Rolex (if Rolex would do it) because Rolex probably doesn't like the post consumer market running up the prices on these vintage models over which they have no control. Another thing is, I see Astorlive and Interwatches saying watches are 100% Rolex on 40 year old watches. But alot of times these watches have noticable flaws. Just like an original SRSD, or a DRSD, for that matter, there just aren't that many around and you better have a pretty damn good provenance before you plunk down way too much money for such a watch.

Interwatches makes alot of mistakes and the first one is, that does not look like a 1939 watch. The hands are wrong- they would have been alpha hands, unless they've been replaced. Also, the movement bridge, which states "Montres Rolex SA, Geneva Swiss..." is a later bridge. Granted, it could have been changed during servicing, but then where are the service papers? And how come this watch is on ebay Canada? I guess I'll check ebay.com in the good ole US of A next! And the serial number for a watch manufactured in 1939 would be c. 71224. Come to think of it, was the 6234 even made in 1939? I would think it's a post WWII watch- more like 1949 or realistically, 1959. And the more I think of it, the worse it smells. The dial looks like a 6238 dial to me- the early 6234 dials would have had "alpha hour markers" not the bar markers shown, and alpha hands. This is definitely a watch that needsto be verified by Rolex!

Wow! Ordered Josh's Beginmariner on the 22nd and it arrived today, the 28th. That's pretty good service. And it looks just like the noobmariner, but it should, since it's the same case and dial. Can't wait to get home and pop the back off, to take a look at movement. Thanks Josh.

A gen Rolex 295C is 29.5mm. A typical CN rep crystal is 30.5mm. But your best bet is to pop the crystal out and measure it to be sure. You can find 30.5mm crystals on ebay (search "rolex crystal") for around $30 plus s+h. But there is no guarantee that the cyclops placement will line up with your date window. Have you tried polishing your cyclops to get the scratch out?

Well, Dan, I think you just picked out the three best deals for under $150. Of course, Paul's will run a little more depending on how you pay for it, since you got to get the money over to him, but it is an ETA. I just ordered Josh's Beginmariner myself because, as far as I can tell, it has the Seagull 2813 movement (see the WO under the balance wheel). I'm giving it to a nephew as a late xmas present of sorts. I do also have the noobmariner and, BTW, Paul's, TTK's, Josh's and TWG's all have the same case with the ubquitous serial # F520117. Oops, don't forget EL. Really, the only real decision is whether or not you get the ETA movement.

An ETA 2893-A2 is a GMT movement with the fourth hand like as in an ExplorerII or GMT Master II. With running seconds at three, I would bet on a Dubois Depraz chrono module added to an ETA base movement of some sort. Of course, it could be a totally in house U. Nardin movement. It is not a 7750.

If you look at the bottom of the GMT Master dial, it says T < 25. This dates this dial to pre mid 90's cause that's when they stopped using Tritium. I would think this is a reputable seller, but they must have their pictures messed up, or they aren't so reputable. I thought Rolex stopped production of the GMT Master a few years ago, but I'm not positive. As for Astorlive, they have stopped me from bidding on their auctions because I questioned one of their watches- an old GMT with lousy date mag. I can't say the bezel insert is aftermarket, and I don't know about the band, but I do know Astorlive will ban you if you seriously question them. Makes you wonder about their 100% approval rating. I do agree that there are alot of watches w/ aftermarket parts that are referred to as 100% Rolex, but really aren't. The only way you're going to get around that is by going directly to Rolex for service and paying thru the nose. If you buy a watch, they will verify its authenticity for you for a fee which used to be around $75, but is probably more these days.

Obvious scam, w/ a pic of an ETA movement! I tried getting this guy off of ebay once, same scam, but he's back. Hard to tell what he's selling since the pics don't match up very well. And his description is totoal bs.

I just took a measurement on a spare 1500 Date case which I have, 28.25mm inside. Interestingly enough, the case has a cut out on the side opposite the case tube, I guess to allow for more room for the movement on that side. The 1500 Date takes the 1575 movement also. The ring above that that the dial would sit against is 27.13mm. But more appropriate to your case is that the spare dial for my 1680 is 26.15mm. I'm thinking that the 1665 dial would be closer to a 1680. And of course, didn't the original 1665's use a modified sub case? I guess what you really need is a 1665 case!

Yep, Joe's your man! And he types faster than I do, also. While I'm giving you a long drawn out disertation, he just says, "send it to me." But at least I've explained to you what he'll be doing in fixing your watch. That's the great thing about this board, we've got people who can help you fix/mod your watch and if you hang around long enough you can learn how to do this stuff yourself. You may not always get it right but you're learning and that's cool. too.

Ouch! It sounds like you may have cross threaded the tube into the case. And using a pair of pliers isn't the way to go. Try removing the tube using a rat tail file or a torx screwdriver (I'm guessing you don't have the proper tool for screwing the tube in/out). These go inside the tube and then turn counterclockwise to remove the tube. Also, I guess you didn't clean the inside threads of the case with the proper tap before screwing the tube in. If the crown won't screw down on the tube, you may be SOL. I would guess you've boogered up the threads on the tube. Maybe you can get by w/ another tube, but you also need to get someone to do it for you or get a few tools- at least the tap to clean the threads on the case and something to screw the tube in with- not pliers. You can find a set of taps at ofrei.com.

Dm- Diameter minimum Do- Diameter overall Or it could be Diameter maximum? No Sprecthen zie Deutsch. But I doubt it's German, just technical jargon Or Diameter opening? You can't fit a Dm movement in a smaller case so you'd need a Do that's greater. Just thinking out loud!

Invictas are good watches for the price. The quartz and automatic models (Miyota 8215) for around $100 are a good buy. Many of them are WR to 200m, which is farther than anyone is going down scuba diving as a recreational diver. Many of them mimic the timeless Rolex designs and Invicta even had to stop making the 8926 with the coin edge bezel after Rolex got after them. It looks like the 8926 with the coin edge (Rolex) bezel is still available from Overstock.com and for $100 that's a good deal.

Here's a link to a William Marshall Limited Edition Swiss Masterpiece. It's a Submariner with a 2824-2 movement in it. 200m/660Ft WR. I've tested mine to 90ft last summer. It's a step above the Invicta sub which has the Miyota movment, but cheaper than the Invicta with the Swiss automatic movment. But Invictas aren't a bad deal either. http://cgi.ebay.com/Large-SWISS-Automatic-...tem230066839287

Yep, gio, that's a very nice looking watch. Maybe you could enlighten us as to the particulars. I was thinking a TTK base, but then I looked at the movement and noticed the slot at the button to remove the stem/crown. And today I was looking at one of Paul's movements, an eta with the colored gear, but it had Rolex on the rotor, as I recall. Sometimes I get confused! Tell us more. And great pics BTW.

All of my ETA movements are working fine (at least 7) and two of my asian movements have crapped out- out of 8 total. It may be possible to revive one of them, but the other is toast. I did notice today that Ofrei carries Chinese movements for $15-20 so it may be possible to do a transplant, but hand sizes vary so it could be a little more involved. The original 2824 came out in 1973. The 2824-1 was in production until '79 or '83 and the 2824-2 has been around since that time. I couldn't tell you what the differences are, but I would figure that they are minor improvements that were made over the years. If you find a 2824 or 2824-1 movement in a watch, I would assume it is older. Stick with the 2824-2.

I certainly find it interesting that Angus says the replica watch market isn't growing, but that the quality is improving. I think we've all seen the improvement in quality over the last couple of years, but I find it hard to believe that the market isn't growing.

tvt's right on the money there. My watchmaker will service an eta starting at around $70. I take my Rolexes to him also cause I can't fade the $500 charge at the AD and it runs $150-200. In both cases, parts would be extra. Sometimes, your watch may just need to be adjusted. Put it on the Vibragraf and move one of the levers on the balance wheel. Five minutes of his time, $10-20 maybe. One time I had a vintage Valjoux 72 chronograph which was running fast. My watchmaker took one look at it, said the balance wheel was dirty, loosened a screw or two, dipped it in the cleaning solution, dried it off and put it back in the watch and put it on the Vibragraf, made a small adjustment and voila, it was right on. I got to watch and he didn't even charge me for it- a five minute repair. Finding a good watchmaker can be the key to happiness!

The correct bracelet for a 16800 is the 93150. This bracelet has the same clasp as the current bracelet, the 93250. A 93150 would have end pieces (hollow as you say) which were numbered for the specific model which they fit (like 580, 501) and those numbers correspond to a certain model of watch. For your 16800 Franken, a 93150 bracelet with 580 end pieces would be correct, as I recall. A good place to find this information is on Timezone under vintage or modern Rolex- these guys love to hash and rehash this trivia. I'm not really sure which bracelet an early 16610 (c. early 90's) would have, but if I had to guess, I'd say 93250, but I don't knpw if it originally came with the hollow end link pieces or solid end links like the current models.

Those are some beautiful restorations. I realize nowdays alot of collectors like original unrestored watches, but those restorations sure look fine to me. It's like giving new life to a vintage watch, making it good for the next 20-30 years.

Great tutorial, Bruce. And don't forget, after cleaning up the excess epoxy with vodka and a rag, you can always drink the remaining vodka, as a celebration of sorts!

Richard Brown came to mind for me, also. Speaking of which, I don't recall seeing him post here recently, if ever???

@ aclaimsman Is that a piece of PVC pipe in there on top of the crystal? You could even notch it out to go over the cyclops. Pretty ingenious!

To realign the crystal, take off the back, pull the stem and crown and remove the movement from the case. Then you press out the crystal from the back (inside), you might be able to use your thumbs to do this, realign it and press it back in with a (crystal) press. Make sure you don't booger up the white nylon (plastic) gasket. Clean the inside of the crystal, and reinstall the movement. A Rolex caseback opener and a watch press are the tools you need and a 1.2mm screwdriver if you have an ETA movement- to remove the stem. Or you can do like I did one night. Drop it on the concrete floor, watch the crystal pop out, then go back upstairs and repress the crystal back in- didn't even have to remove the movement!

Well, I wouldn't be surprised if there is a slight variation from year to year. It's not unheard of for Rolex to mix things up from time to time. But I probably would go back to Gio's answer where variations in camera angles and lenses accounts for most of the differences.