alligoat

My favorite watch this month is the Heuer Carrera Re-Edition 1964. I was horsing around on ebay and bid on one and got it for $800. The seller said it didn't reset properly so I took it to my watchmaker and spent another $70 replacing the reset pin in it. Now it runs fine, is in great condition and I love the classic good looks. It has the Lemania 1873 manual wind movement in it, the same as some of the Omegas, only Omega calls theirs the cal. 861, I believe.

Here's a goood link for some Eta hands: http://cgi.ebay.com/Rolex-Tudor-Submariner...3QQcmdZViewItem A vintage 5513 dial will probably be smaller than a rep dial and the same holds for the case. So you can vintagize your existing dial or get another rep dial. I tried sticking an authentic 16610 dial in a rep 16610 case and it wouldn't work- dial too small. Last night I measured a GMT II rep dial at 29mm and the gen on ebay was listed at 28mm. Unless you got a MBW, it probably won't work. You might try aging your existing dial. Good luck.

I hope it's just a matter of forgetting to pay the bill. I was thinking about getting another watch from Paul.

Here's a tool that I bought a few weeks ago: http://cgi.ebay.com/swiss-AF-crown-opener-...1QQcmdZViewItem I can't tell you if it works, cause every tube I've taken out is a rep tube and none of them have had a groove in them. The tool does work getting them out, but I'm kinda tearing up the tool. Last nite I used a rat tail file to get one of the rep tubes back in. It worked OK and I'm not as concerned about tearing it up. Ofrei.com and julesborel.com also have insertion tools and they both have the generic tubes, which is what I'm going to try next and then pick up a rolex crown on ebay, since ofrei and borel sell plain unmarked crowns to avoid getting in trouble w/ Rolex!

About a year and a half ago I picked up some "moonphase" watches on ebay for about $40-50 each. An A. Lange & Sohne and a couple of Patek Phillipes. The moonphase is fake, but the watches are fun to wear- gold plated with nice leather bands. The chinese movements keep good time and they make nice dress watches. I also like the PP Calatrava, it makes a nice statement as an understated dress watch.

Cool, I like it! Invicta has come out with a similar watch, same idea in plastic, but with a clear caseback so that you can see the works. Also, Invicta's plastic run the spectrum of colors, clear (white), orange, purple. I haven't seen the watch yet, except in a Fou-Fou magazine.

Great post Discovery! I figure if I keep reading this stuff, eventually some of it will sink in. Hey, some day, when I screw up the keyless works, I may even be able to fix it myself, w/o having to go visit the watchmaker! thanks

And Robert Maron gives you a provenance about their early sub. Also, the hands look better, serial number, story about the marked out Submariner on the dial, good bezel. The only thing is the A295 should be an A296 but I figure it's a typo. Certainly a much better example for a lot less money (but still too much for me, guess I'll have to get back to modding my DRSD and be happy!)

This watch sent me running to Skeet and Urhl (Vintage Rolex Sport Models) when I ran across it on the bay. Some idiot at Interwatches did the write-up and couldn't even get the movement right originally. They did revise it slightly and put in the A296 movement. There is no caliber 16712, never was, never will be. In English caliber means movement. The idiot didn't realize that 16712 was the movement number! I guess he doesn't realize that Rolex numbers their movements. The biggest thing that screams out at me is the bezel insert. It's a later replacement, and I guess the only question would be if it was done by an RSC or not. They should have mentioned it nevertheless. It could be a 6200 or a 6204. The caseback says 6200, but they don't give a between the lugs shot, or even divulge the serial number. I do figure that the band is a later one, the original being rivetted, I would think. The Brevet crown doesn't bother me, and an early Sub, wouldn't have the name, or necessarily the 100m=330ft on the dial. For an $80,000.00 price tag, however, you have got to have some GD provenance. And it needs to be pretty damn good provenance. I guess Interwatches is keeping it a secret. The vintage Rolex market is HOT, HOT, HOT these days. I ran across a 6034 for close to 6 figures last week and the 6238 on ebay went for $26,785.00 this week. Pretty incredible. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...A%3AIT&rd=1

You can always try some wet/dry sandpaper. 400, 600, or 1000 grit. Get it at your local auto paint store. You can also get the polishing compounds, simichrome, etc. That stuff can tone down a shiny finish, or bring it back, depending on which way you're going. Last weekend, I noticed the bezel on one of my submariners was stuck. I had failed to rinse it off last time I climbed out of the salt water. I took the channel locks and duct taped the jaws and tried to loosen the bezel back up, while squirting WD-40 in there. I got it working again, but in the process, I did manage to scratch the watch up some- instant aging! Next time I'll take the bezel off and clean it instead- no more channel locks. You can always take a pair of pliers and put a few nicks on your watch, if that's what you want. Then sand em or polish em down- instant wear.

If it's one thing that I've learned playing w/ reps, it is that they typically aren't the same size as the gens. With the exception of the vintage MBW's, sizes are usually a little different. Be it a replacement crystal, bezel or dial, there's always a chance other parts won't fit. At least w/ the Explorer I, you don't have to deal w/ date mag, and who's gonna miss a mm.

Looked at a 6034 at my watchmakers yesterday. Had the red inner track, alpha hands and the triangular hour markers. Very similar to the 6234 and it also has the Valjoux 72 movt. Now days to get one repaired, you have to bring in your own donor movt. for parts, since v.72 parts are almost a thing of the past. The red was a shade lighter than Josh's 6234 and of course, the dial did show some age. Still, I would guess that it's a $10-15,000.00 watch, even with the non-Rolex donor parts. He also had a gold 6263 that the owner was doing the same thing to- repairing with donor parts.

This is the 6234 Pre-Daytona chronograph and as Dec points out there are a few flaws. Thanks to By-tor, I was able to go thru Antiquorum and look at all of the models which have sold recently. The dial is OK, but the red is a little strong because it hasn't faded w/ time, otherwise, it's OK. I've seen this dial w/ a blue telemeter ring and it probably wouldn't be so loud. Typically the 6234 had alpha hands and triangular shaped hour markers, but rectangular stick markers were also seen and the later hands were rectangular and rectangular w/ pointed ends (similar to the 6694 hands). This watch was produced from the 40's to the middle 60's, which is a pretty long run and we all know that Rolex did change things thru the years. The pushers are assymertical, but it's not something I'd be all that concerned about. The later movement was the Cal. 72 and the four o'clock pusher is slightly lower, below the 4 o'clock marker. The 2 o'clock pusher seems to be centered on the hour marker. I think it's a good looking watch and like the 6238 which I have, it's not one that you're likely to get called down on because few people are going to know anything about it other than it is a Rolex. Even my watchmaker looked at my 6238 and started to get excited, until he took off the caseback. The only negative that I can see is the asian 7750, you just have to hope it holds up OK.

Is that a gilt 5513 dial? Have you thought about just straightening it up and leaving it like that?

I'm not sure how you go about getting a gen crown and tube. I bought them on the bay last week for $40 but they're probably generic. Also, julesborel and ofrei may have them. Helfands down in Florida also comes to mind. The real ones will be more expensive. Some of the other guys around here get gen parts, but you have to be prepared to pay more- they're not cheap. Good luck.

It sure is nice to see that someone finally got the crown guards, pearl and rehaut right! And come to think of it, the date font and mag aren't too bad either! Congratulations on the perfect sub. Now you'll have to go out and get a rep, so you don't tear up your gen!

I got a Day-Date from Paul this week and I thought it would be an ETA 2834, but when I opened it up, it was a 2836. So over in China at the factory, they are taking the 2836 and modifying it so the day is at the top. A Datejust dial and a Day-Date dial should be the same size, but you need to check. I'm finding out that the rep dials and the gen dials don't match up alot of times. The rep dials are typically as much as a mm or so larger, but not always. If your swapping rep to rep, w/ dial feet in the same place, it should be easy, if the dials are the same size- diameter and date window location. If your going rep to gen or vice versa, it could be a whole nother matter. And gen feet don't match ETA feet. I bought a set of digital calipers from Harbor Freight last week and they sure are nice for measuring dials, etc. $19.99 plus tax. This week I saw them on sale for $15.99. Well worth it- especially for my old eyes!

Congratulations! You are on your way. Like you said, the minute hand is too fat for the standard sub, and if you could mod the crown guards, you'd be on your way to a better sub. Changing out the bezel insert is also a good move. Date mag looks pretty good, so that is nice. Hope you enjoy it here and learn alot.

Come to think of it, I could use a 1575 movt to rebuild a 1500 Date. As soon as I get the dial repainted, or get another dial- a Frankenwatch w/ real parts! But as Ubi says, Edge might be out of pocket for awhile, sure hope he can put his problems behind him and get back here.

Well, I'm sorry to hear that the numbers don't line up well. That does not bode well for my Datejust project, if I ever get back on track w/ a case and dial that match.

If the feet fit the movement, you don't need the tape. The tape is for when you remove the feet and have to hold the dial in place. Capisce?

I bought one of these overlays from Luenfat in Hong Kong. My watch project got sidetracked by some other issues, so I haven't tried it out yet. It is a nice thin metallic date wheel, should glue up OK. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...A%3AIT&rd=1

I'm not in Denial, that's a river in Egypt. But my wife has menioned the possibility of a twelve step program for my watch affliction/addiction. I think of my watch collection as a hierarchy. At the bottom are the cheapos that go to the gym, do yardwork and generally get banged around, like the $60 CN Datejust and the C-omex DRSD w/ the golden C movement- $50, haven't opened up the case yet, could it be a Seagull like the 5512 from TWG? Then there's the waterproof knock-offs and economical gens, good for swimming, etc. Heuer Lambelet GMT quartz- 200m William Marshall sub, 2824 movt- 200m Zodiac Red Point Dive watch- 200m The better reps Puretime 6238 WM red 1680 w/ mods CN 16610 sub And finally the better gens a couple of vintage Rolexes a Jean Marcel Grand Complication a Wittnauer v72 chrono some other vintage chronos And of course there are others, Navitimer knock-offs, Daytona reps I try to take care of all of my watches, but some more than others, and some of the other cheapos will get taken apart eventually, like the 6694 Oysterdate from Silix- I've got my eye on that eta movt, I just haven't figured out where it's going for the greater cause, I just can't stand the weak date mag on the 6694.

Nice watch and nice rivetted bracelet, an early red sub, no doubt!

OK, more stuff, The inside edges of the crown guards could be straightened up, giving them a more right angle look relative to the edge of the case at the base of the crown. A smaller (gen) crown would help. A better pearl on the bezel would be nice, say gen bezel insert, or at least a better one. But w/ the ETA movt, you can't go wrong. Enjoy it and make the modes later on when you get around to it. I have an Aspire DRSD that needs crown guard work, and a general toning down of the yellow and maybe drilling out of the lug holes, but other than the yellow, no one's really gonna notice.