supermanx

I've seen some of Joes work and it was really really great, but damn every 3 weeks there are more and more posts about where has joe gone... And a lot of them are from well respected members, many of them who still have their watch with him. How bad are you going to call out someone if they still posses a couple of your watches? I personally have never dealt with joe, but I have dealt with The Zigmeister and he is quick to respond to my questions and always very helpfull.

Here is the lugs on the pic with the rusted crown tube blew up 4x:

I'm not a photoshop expert, and the picture is small (blew it 4x), but why is the only color inconsistancy at the same two places the dent marks are on the lugs in The Zigmeister's pictures?

He isn't even using his own pictures.

I use MAAS polish to get to a polished finish and then cape cod to give it the mirror lusture. The last cape cod I got was light pink (not the normal dark pink) though and they are not working well... Might have to complain to the manufacturer.

When i took the bezel insert off and cleaned then reglued with gs cement is set the insert a little too far into the bezel makeing the rehault look deeper... but also created a small lip on the bezel. Got another insert on the way.

I picked this up from a member here, switched out the bezel, and its got the nickle movement. Pros: Excellent date mag, VERY deep rehault, nice crown, very nice crown guards. Cons: Bad pearl, laser etched crown, date cyclops covers tick marks.

We've already went over this on the other board hu12, the swiss spacing is not incorrect, just not typical. The missing tick marks under the swiss made is incorrect though. Crown guard are off but actually not horrible the ym has much thicker guards. hu12 is correct about the font and the spacing between 3 0 and that the bezel numerals are touching the inside edge of the bezel. Cyclops is also too far right, but there are even gens with this affliction.

Basically the screw will strip and you will not be able to screw the crown down anymore. Cheap tubes have poor quality threads and break down faster. Whether you will have to send it off for repair depends on your level of comfort doing repairs... I would assume since your asking what the problem is you would probably want to send it off.

I wonder what it would cost, and what it would look like after a servicing.

Not the worst bling panerai I've seen, but bad... very very bad.

If I knew that was what I was going to get for $600, i would just buy a decent set of starter tools, a gram of lume, 3 cheap subs to get started and go to town.

1. Navitimer, LV, and Omega Nicole Kidman for the wife 2. Joshua 3. Yes Navitimer at The Zigmeister getting chrono hand fixed, LV in pieces learning how to put back together, AND she wears it 5-6 times a week.

Take him to the pam ad under the disguise of wanting to buy one of those great looking pams and let them break the news... or take him to canal street

Just realized how poor the pictures are, I'll take another pic tomorrow evening while it is still light out.

I've seen some really nice vintage and even though its usually not my style... I was bored so figured I would give it a go. This is my first attempt but I'm thinking I may redo it soon. What do you think.

I screwed up the keyless works on my 2836 lv and then screwed up the movement trying to fix... but slowly I've been getting it back to working, using it as a learning platform.

anyone know if this crown would work for the seagull ("venus/lemania" copy) movement.

go to a hobby store ask for matte varnish spray (Its basically like a type of clear coat)... test on a piece of scrap metal first before spraying your dial... a light coat works best. If you have a sandwich dial and dont want to keep any printing your best sanding it down to the brass and repainting with a flat black paint (flat is the easiest to work with). Make sure you seperate your dial from the lume backplate.

I had it done three years ago and couldn't be happier. and 3 Years without designer glasses, antiglare, scratch resistant, tinted lenses it had paid for itself.

Yep used flat matte to fix a couple scratches in my 217 dial worked perfect, although the swiss turned blue but was almost invisible. Then I decided I wanted a blank dial so I stripped it down to the brass and repainted flat black with 2 coats of flat matte.

TJ I polish by hand mostly working the links back and forth, then use a soft toothbrush with dish soap like dawn to really clean between the links. I then coat in 3 in 1 oil and wrap in plastic wrap moving every link back and forth for about 10 minutes, let stand another 15 minutes then wash by hand with dishsoap and very hot water, dry and polish with a good quality microfiber cloth. As for cape cod its a polishing cloth you can buy on the bay from watchboys also:

Only problem may be that the gold color on an replacement may not match perfect. There is a wide range of tt replacement bezels from pretty good to really really crappy, and its hard to judge the quality from a pic.

Check his sale section, he has a post from earlier in teh week that has the watch number.

I use MAAS (about $4. a tube at any pharmacy, grocery store, or hardware store) or Cape Cods for finer work or quick brightening on a "diaper rag" or cheap microfiber cloths. Use dishsoap and very hot water between polishings to remove any grease polish debri. Use care when polishing any brushed watch or you will be rebrushing. For oiling I use 3 in 1 gun oil.