cougaree

There are so many out there, both manual and automatic. I'm just wondering if can they be reused in our watches to replace ETA 2824-2 or 2836-2 movements. Any thought guys?

For some reason, I prefer this one over the other kind (looks like a flower), but I've owned ETA 2824-2 movements with the other kind before.

Personally, I like all my ETA 2824-2 movements to have this one.

I believe they do. This is a cut and paste from wikipedia "ETA 2824-2 One workhorse of the ETA mechanical line is the ETA 2824-2, The 2824 is an automatic winding, twenty-five (25) jewel movement, available in four executions or grades: Standard, Elaborated (improved), Top and Chronometer. The key components which differ at the line of demarcation between Elaborated and Top are the barrel spring, shock protection system, pallet stones, balance wheel & hairspring and the regulator mechanism. In contrast, since the addition of the "-2" at the end of the movement number, there has been no difference between the standard and the chronometer grades in terms of the regulator mecanism, both being Etachron. To illustrate the differences in accuracy garnered by the successive grades, consider the following specifications: * the Standard grade is adjusted in two positions with an average rate of +/-12 seconds/day, with a maximum daily variation of +/-30 seconds/day; * the Elaborated grade is adjusted in three positions with an average rate of +/-7 seconds/day, with a maximum daily variation of +/-30 seconds/day; * while the Top grade is adjusted in five positions with an average rate of +/-4 seconds/day, with a maximum daily variation of +/-10 seconds/day. "

hahahahaha, R, you are a funny man! Can't wait to choreograph your song.

+1 Reading member reviews is one good way to be knowledgeable. Welcome!

It might not be too bad. The number of parts is finite and each part is locked in only one place... I'm still pretty optimistic about it. Someday I will have to go this route if I don't stop buying soon.

Maybe when our chronograph collections grow larger, we should train ourselves to work on the movement. I know some members here do... maybe I should do the same. Otherwise there is no other way. I love my Breitling chronographs too much

I don't have any issues with my Skylands, but I do have the similar issue with one of my BCEs. I'm going to give it a try tonight too. Hopefully this will do the trick.

That is the reason why I don't own any Blackbird, B01, Bentley, Omega Speedmaster, Pam chrono and AP ROO. Although replacing movements may be best solution, it does require a lot more $$. I don't know where I can get a A7750 that's perfectly lubricated and working, if I go with ETA 7750 route, the movement itself will cost of at least $300. Plus, another $100 to put it into the watch, total cost $400. If I buy an used movement for $250, then I will still have to pay another $200 for service. My total cost will be even more.

I meant the watch Haha...

I hear what you were saying man. I use to think this way until I fell in love with Breitling watches. The economics of watch collecting certainly forbids us from buying too many 7750 movement powered watches. 5 watches with 7750 movement means $1000 for service fees every 5 years (that is if you keep up with your maintenance schedule). However, the problem is even when I send my watches out for service, the large second hand still runs not very smooth on some of them. Now, I have never owned a watch with ETA 7750 running in it, so maybe I should give it a try.

Man, that's hot!

Lately I got an older Breitling Skyland v2 from another member. The chronograph function on its A7750 movement was just butter smooth. I use to think the A7750 movements don't have smooth chronograph function, and it's just one of those things we sacrifice for low cost. But, the quality of my newly acquired Skyland blew me away. Here is the list of A7750 watches I have and my observations (they all keep very good time), and I'm curious about yours. 1. BCE v2 ................. movement has been serviced, chronograph is generally smooth, but skips once on the large second hand when the minute sub dial hand advances. poor power reserve. When turning the crown to adjust the time, there seems to be a little bit play on the crown. 2. BCE v2 TT .............. movement has been serviced, chronograph is generally smooth, but also skips on the large second hand when the minute sub dial minute hand advances. When turning the crown to adjust the time, there seems to be a little bit play on the crown. 3. Skyland v2 ............. don't know if the movement has been serviced or not, chronograph is very smooth. When turning the crown to adjust the time, there is no play on the crown. 4. Skyland v3 ............. movement has been serviced, chronograph is not so smooth. When turning the crown to adjust the time, there is no play on the crown. 5. SA BS .................. chronograph is not so smooth, but better than skyland v3. When turning the crown to adjust the time, there is no play on the crown. 6. SA v3 .................. unserviced, don't own it no more, the chronograph is smooth. When turning the crown to adjust the time, there is no play on the crown. 7. IWC 3717 ............... unserviced, the large second hand skips in the first 3 seconds, then it runs relatively smooth. The large second hand skips when the minute sub dial hand advances. Often times, pressing on the reset button once does not reset the chronograph.

I agree with the claim for the most part, but sometimes I will have to buy a gen. For example, I would like to have a Seawolf with high WR rating, thicker sapphire crystal and titanium body. I don't think I will get all these with the reps we have available today. Another example is Omega PO. I like to have at least one co-axial movement in my collection, and no matter how good the rep is, there is no co-axial movement inside. This is also true to the B01.

So... only Skyland v2 from Hublot factory? What about the v3?

Not trying to brag, but mine has pretty tight bezel, thus I think if the bezel is to be removed, I believe we can adjust the ratchet ring to make the bezel tighter.

Hmm, can anybody confirm?

A little update: I recently bought a Skyland v2. It has slightly better AR coating IMHO. Maybe it's because the dial is gray or something, the crystal reflection is a lot less than my v3 black dial.

HackR: R, I'm sure you'll have some other projects on your mind even if you don't do the transplant project. Fakemaster: I'm serious. Maybe I drew conclusions too early, but the ones I bought lately with "swiss standard" in their crystal description had much better AR than the ones that doesn't say. P4GTR: It's not about getting a gen. I think all of us have some kind of personal requirements (even on the reps). As for me, crystal with high reflection and very blue hue does sometimes bother me. Wheaton26: Thanks for the heads up! I think if anyone wants to have their crystals AR'd, they will have to bent the tabs on their own and get the crystal out. I don't know anyone else here, but it's too risky for me to do it. Just thinking about makes the hair on my neck standing up. I'd rather live with the high reflection crystal...

Has anyone tried to pop the bezel off and adjust the bezel ratchet ring? I know with SA v3 is easy but the crystal comes off with the bezel. Will it also be the case with SA BS? (I sure hope not)

Haven't seen anybody talking about their fish in the last several months now... maybe we all got one already. The Asian fish was hot for a little while then it died down.

I think he does

Black fish... old picture, but you get the idea.

We got a bleeder here... Sometimes a great rep is worth waiting (looking at this one for example or SOH v2 or Skyland v2, etc), but sometimes it's not (discontinued fish, SOH v2, Omega Seamaster 2254.50, some of the Eddie Lee Pams). I guess I just need to hold my grounds on what I care about most and what I less care about and not to be influenced by the beautiful looks (seems like that's what we do for marriage...).