preacher62

I used one of Raffles Times' enlargement rings in a gen 1601 case and it worked well. I had to machine out some places for the case clamps to pass through but that was a simple Dremel tool job.

I have been posting that William S. McCaw Co. has new 2846s for $57.97. I have one in my 5512. Call 1-800-537-0343 and ask for Pete. The one I bought was brand new. I don't know if they are a current build item or not. The rep dealers say no...but this company tells me that they keep them in stock. http://www.mccawcompany.com/

Guess it didn't come...I know the feeling.

Superb photography. I have a dial like that in my franken, but I never saw it like your photo. Great!

Yep...great looking watch. If you want to sell it, TJ, because these guys don't like it, I'll take it because I like it.

My cardiologist wears a gen that belonged to his father. He is an avid fly fisherman and duck hunter. As far as I know it is the only watch he owns.

There are several stores on eBay that sell these. You can just look and match it to a gen and see which one you like. I will tell you that the Noobmariner has a slightly smaller insert than the standard. It has to be shaved down just a little to fit. There are totorials on the forum as to how to do that.

That still tells you that the second hand tube is touching something. Could be that you will need to oil it every year.

I have one that I received about 1 month ago. I put a Clark 127 on it and it fit perfectly. Case is of gen construction. The crown guards are short but they are alot better when you see the watch (in person) than trying to scrutinize it in pictures. Another problem is that the crown is to long. This exacerbates the CG problem. I have machined down the crown to the right size and worked on the CGs and it looks OK. Biggest problem I have is that the date has three components. The dwo, the date window and the mag lens. None of these seem to line up, horizontally. The date is left justified in the date window (same old problem). The mag lens is to the right of the date window. I am assuming that the Clark crystal is spot on and it is almost identical to the crystal that came on the watch. That means that the dial and the dwo are off. Solution...I have a 5513 dial on the way and a new 2846 awaiting implant. Problem solved. No more date issues.

Thanks for reply. I am interested in other movements that can be used in our reps. Only problem is in finding hands for them. Doesn't this Bulova movement clock at about 17-19Kph. It should be very realistic in that watch. I didn't put mine on the timer. When I cleaned, oiled and reassembled it was keeping time just like before so I didn't fix it.

@Just...how did that 11BLACD fit into the case and is it a 1601 case or a thicker case? I love that movement. It is easy to service and there are quite a few floating around. I have an 11ALACD in a Bulova Snorkel watch that I purchased on Okinawa in 1968. Runs strong and accurately.

You can't drill it from the inside. Must be done from the outside. Must use a jig to hold the mid-case perfectly square to the holes and then use a drillpress to drill from the outside. It is a more than one-step proposition. Enlarging existing holes and drilling virgin holes is not even the same operation...at all.

I agree with you guys that it looks great...but if you look at the 40 year old 1680s on the Bay most of them look new with the exception of a little patina on the lume. I just can't bring myself to "whack" my 1680 with a wrench.

I was born in 1946. My dad bought a 1955 Dodge...loaded?...for about $1000. In 1968 a new Pontiac GTO Judge was $1,850 (of course, there weren't much to them but an engine and tranmission.) Talk about an investment. If we only knew. I recently worked on a 1959 vintage DJ 1601 that had never had the case back removed. This guy was a drummer for Kitty Wells and was touring in Germany in about 1960 where he purchased the watch for $450. Classic steel and 18K yellow gold. When I got out of the Army, in 1970, we all wanted to find a job where "you could work up to" $10,000 per year. I remember Timex' were $8 - $10 in the 60s, but I don't remember Bulovas for $29. I bought a new Bulova Snorkel (which I still have and serviced last year) when I was on Okinawa in 1967 for $40, but it was marked $60. Great movements back then. I just serviced a 1939 Hamilton and it runs like a dream. In 1973 my brother-in-law bought a new Rolex GMT for $1,800.

That is reasonable and there are some great watches from our trusted sources that are less than that...with an ETA 2846 on board. Just ready for modding or frankening...is that a word. We need an RWG dictionary.

Don't know what everyone is paying for ETA 2846s, but I purchased one from William S. McCaw, last week, for $57.95 and had it in two days. They are very fast.

@ronin - Where can you buy this movement in CONUS? I notice that the one on Ofrei's website is not exactly the same. I believe someone posted in this forum that you need to get the latest verstion of the 3804.

This is the correct instruction. A little goes a long way. You just want to move it an, almost, imperceptable distance. Just a tiny bump will change the rate. Move it more and you'll have it running 5 min. fast per day.

Amen, Just received a 1680, this week, and the dates on the dwo are aligned to the left of the date window and the mag lens is aligned to the right of the date window. I put a Clark 127 on but it is exactly the same as with the original crystal. Since I believe the Clark to be gen-like, then the other two components are the ones misagligned. Solution...I have asked the dealer to sell me a 5512 dial and hands for ETA. It will be puuuurrrrffect then. None of those problems. I'll remove all the date changing mechanism from the movement.

cjjoyce1 has a good idea. It's no problem to glue the dial ring to the back of the dial since once you make this move, that dial will probably never be on anything again but an ETA movement. I use an epoxy that never cures completely brittle. Next to the stem on a 2824/36 there is a place where the set lever can be manipulated. I put a small dot of epoxy on the rim above that and then set the dial ring with dial attached. You do not need to glue all the way around. You just want to hold the dial in place so that it doesn't rotate until you get it clamped. Once clamped it isn't going anywhere. If you need to remove the dial you can insert a screwdriver into the slot where the set lever is and twist it just a little to pry the dial ring loose from the movement. Please note...This whole procedure does not take much glue. Just four tiny dots to glue the ring to the dial and just one to mount it to the movement. And yes...It's a very good idea not to glue any gears. Not good...not good at all.

Would you be so kind as to give me Josh's email address. I want to make a purchase but not on his unreliable site.

Am I the only one having trouble with Perfect Clones and Trusty Watch. I haven't been able to get on Andrew's site in over a week. I can get on Josh's site...sometimes...but then it quickly dies. Is it because of the earthquake and tsunami?

They are the traditional paper on thin foil. Having trouble making it snap crisply. 2824s do not have the robust date changing mechanism that 2836 have.

This is a dwo that I purchased from Andrew. Open 6s and 9s and flat-topped 3s. I am using it on an ETA 2824 in a gen 1601 with the gen pie pan dial that came in the watch. Lines up pretty good. Sorry for pics. Watch is SS and gold with Silver dial and gold markers and hands. Still working on it...haven't sized the stem yet.