sssurfer

GREAT! I have three stingray straps (grey like yours, brown, and light blue) and I love them all. Mine are from OfficialTime. Where did you get yours?

Ok, as you seem to enjoy true masterpieces here are some more. A gold submersible (absolutely necessary should you ever encounter a dressy shark): A couple of the most unique crown guards ever: The PVD Fiddy (ages before OP created the ceramic 47mm!): The very special Double Luminor: A quite large model: Let's end on a Gerald Genta: Well, I think I am done for a while right now. You may take a breath.

LOL Actually, some time ago you could get most of those beauties HERE (where I got most of those pics from).

Thanks for your appreciation! The gator is relieved by luminova-like stitching (obtained with Letraset Pro-Marker magic markers, thread somewhere else on this forum). Brown and similar straps are good on less dark PVD, but I felt this one required a full-black look. After all, almost anyone in my country is known as a fashion masters, who am I to evade it? Finepics is (was) a member, but as I said he seems MIA right now... Yes, I also heard that some new models with improved datewheel and cyclops are going to make appearance. I especially heard it for 104 and similar auto models.

Great! I love the Citezin! Thanks to all that expressed their appreciation on my work too. As you have been so lightheaded not to send me to **** ***, here are some more models -- just a blast from the past: Let's start with some Submersible reps. The Alarm Submersible (GREAT!!!), in black or white face version: The unique spitmersible (also called spermersible): And his close cousins: Now let's go to the classics. Ladies and gentlemen, here's to you The (in)famous Luminor Urina! 1st Ed.: 2nd Ed.: 3rd Ed.: The somehow related Luminor Menstruation: And its anemic version (warning: this is suspected to be a fake): What about a nice moonphase complication? Would you prefer it in blue? And what about some beautiful tourbillons? A stunning diamond model: Back to the Submersible section. Here is an unbelievable Diamond-Bezel Submersible. I just wonder whether it is supposed to be used in diving, or in gala occasions... In the latter case, just make you sure you did not forget to wear your fins along with your gala dress. Even better (even worse?), the Diamond-Bezel Blue-Face Full-Date Moon-Phase Submersible! Same timepiece in a somehow more reserved version (white face and no diamonds): A true masterpiece: the Full-Date Moon-Phase Submersible For Purdey!!! Our well known and ever-beloved Titanium Spitmersible: The 2500 mt Submersible!! (ok, it's not 3000... but who is going to dive that deep, anyway?) Another masterpiece: the Submersible Moonphase Tourbillon!!! Both in black and white face version. (Please note the nice shape and size of the hands). Let's stick on tourbillon models... And now... THE POWER RESERVE! Black or white: An old friend of ours, the Luminor Menstruation. In its 2nd Ed.: The unbelievable Radiomir Tantalium GMT!!! What about this luxury Gold-and-diamomds 029?

chad, you may look a bit overcritic but I may understand your concern. I seem to remember that another member made the font not-so-bright just by putting the dial in a closed space filled with cigarette smoke.

Welcome to a new modder friend! Modders are the incursors of our 'small' community. Just leave out those old R*le*es and apply your skill to something new, black and huge!! :lol:

I am a complete ignorant on Rolex, I just want to express my appreciation on your spirit (and evolution). I think this is the best part of the RWG and replica world. We need this modders' spirit more and more. Keep up the great work, and should you ever get bitten by the PAM bug just let me know!

Excellent! And the crown is awesome! I wonder where Ruby sorted it out, and if there's a new generation of crowns coming next out there... I entirely agree with your evaluation of pros and cons. What I would personally put in the 1st place for an upgrading schedule is the CG.

Sorry I can't evaluate all Davidsen's offers. Other members have discussed several models of his, I hope they might chime in, or just try a search. What I can offer you here are just a few guidelines, if you especially want closeness with the gen disregarding specific features like seconds-or-not, date-or-not, etc. On a general view, the simpler a watch, the lesser the chance of unaccuracies. So: - base models are usually more accurate than more complex models; - titanium and PVD models are usually more accurate than SS models, as they don't suffer from the polished-vs-brushes issues like that I told about the 113; - solid back models are usually more accurate than see-through back models, as you can't obviously spot possible flaws in the movement look. With Davidsen models you don't have to worry about the recessed pinion issue, and his cases and crown guards are usually at a good level of accuracy. One minor but almost ubiquitary small flaw on his crown guards is the position of the lever pin. On the gens it is not centrally placed, but a little shifted towards the crown side. On Davidsen's it is centrally placed, or a little shifted towards the opposite side (this same issue also applies to the vast majority of non-Davidsen's reps, though).

I share your same thoughts about the date, but it looks sort of a holy grail. Finepics and Lello provided some datewheels for the 2893, 2892-A2, and 7750, and archibald is working on other models. Finepics is currently MIA (best wishes to you, if you ever read this, Finepics!) Lello is currently also studying the 090 asian movement, whichever it is. The date font is only half solution to the date issue. The other half is the cyclops. There has been a batch of 6mm sapphire cyclopses here, especially fitted on old 2893 models. Another batch, of 6.75mm sapphire cyclopses (therefore especially fitted on more recent models, E series and onward) is still available from Chieftang. Here's a pic of my 028A with both new datewheel (Finepics') and cyclops (self-made):

Overall, a very good rep. No recessed pin, no glaring flaws. Minor flaws for the eagle-eyed Panerai connoisseur: - less-than-perfect crown; - 'L SWISS MADE L' text a little too spaced between the words 'SWISS' and 'MADE' (possibly because of a little too small font); - polished crown guard is correct for the E and F series, while the 'cote-de-Geneve' movement qualifies this watch as a H series, that would need a brushed crown guard; - I am no expert in 6497 engravings, but I suspect that the 'OFFICINE PANERAI' blue text on tha back may be a little too bold.

You lucky guy kruzer!

If we speak about the small subdials hands then yes, you are right, the usual hand removing tool is too big. In this case no specific tool, but just a thin blade placed under the hand base ring, where the hand sits on its pin. Operate the blade like a lever, just a tiny bit on one side of the hand, then just a tiny bit on the opposite side, and so on, very very patiently. (Naturally place a thin plastic or paper sheet on the dial before the job, as usual when removing hands, in order to protect the dial from scratches).

Universal flaws: - loose lever in the open position; - possibly thin crown; - possibly incorrect numbers and writings on the caseback. Flaws of 6497 models: - recessed pin. As donce said, there are several other flaws around depending on specific models (font, date font, low date magnification, more specific dial flaws, etc). Is the 113 repped? Give us a link to pics of the rep you are thinking about so we can be more specific...

I thought I saw everything from you The Zigmeister, but this is beyond any expectations!

Ok, I see I am in company of masters here. I have to show something new. What about a nice Breitling? The best part is that -- you won't believe -- I actually have it in my own hands right now! It is a watch of a lady friend of mine who gave me it asking to fix it. (... obviously it is beyond any chance of fixing! )

LOL

This should be an easy fix. Just remove the hand, operate the reset, and reinstall the hand back placing it so that it now points to zero. If you don't have the tools and skills to do it, it's just a ten minute work for any watchsmith.

Ah, whew!

I once had a deal with bostonwatchexchange and they have been absolutely courteus and helpful (a lady that it was a pleasure to deal with). But obviously this item is simply ridicolous.

I do not own that watch so I can't figure the need to unscrew the pusher. But Loctite will make the screw fixed, steady, you will not be able to unscrew it again. So, if the pusher really needs to get unscrewed in order to operate it, I suppose you'd better ask the dealer for a replacement... (I am aware that, as I did not understand the way that pusher works, I am probably just telling nonsense. Sorry).

You are welcome. Should you not find the thread, and should the new CG result loose as the former one, just let me know, I might help. IMHO, I saw only a very recent 005 unaffected by that flaw -- and it was not because of the solution implemented on the gens i.e. a rubber gasket around the lever pin...

Really brilliant, Moppel, tahnks for sharing -- and you might get it patented!

I am glad to be the first one to welcome a new PAM fan. (You already look quite a bit along the addiction road, IMHO). Good choice and nice watch, great value for the price, congrats! Both the crown and the dial are ok. I absolutely need the seconds and date (other than on an occasional dressy watch), but I understand your choice. Well done. I just don't understand the loose crown guard issue when opened. It is an universal flaw of all PAM reps: replacing the CG won't help. If you want it fixed you need to fix it on your own, the way already posted here and there.