sssurfer

First of all, thanks lanikai for your consideration, but there are members here who know much much more than me on PAMs. As for Davidsen 029/063: yes, it maybe (always difficult to judge color nuances from internet pics) that DSN's lume color is a bit too accented on green, especially that on numerals and indices (not on hands). Not a great issue, though, as 029 was made in 1998 and 1999, and 063 in 2000. After 7-9 years even a gen owner may want to have his gen relumed -- what may naturally change the lume nuance. This is especially true for the 029, that was lumed with Tritium and therefore its glow is supposed to decrease along years more than superluminova. Rather, what actually makes me wonder about DSN's 029 and 063 is that on his pics one can clearly see that the hands lume is different (whiter) than the dial lume (greener). I have to suppose this is intentional. But I have actually been unable to find any genuine 029 or 063 pics showing that difference between hands and dial lume. Naturally my unability in finding them does not mean that such a difference is unaccurate. I hope any real GMT experts (not me) may chime in and give their advice.

Do you keep your watch on during sex? Yes, but not on my wrist... (folks, I am a true watch lover!) Out of joke: no.

Very interesting! Should you have any news from the dealer about this subject please let me know. The 104 is one of my most favourite models.

Beautiful timepiece! Beauties like this make me think about getting more Radiomirs... if only I weren't so in need of seconds and date...

F, G and H series: open 6. E and I series: closed 6. On the net I also saw a pic of a gen 104I that had an open 6. We may suppose that some early pieces of the I series have been made with dials remaining from the H series.

As long as you want black numbers on white background and date @ 3 o'clock, this http://www.cousinsuk.com/default.aspx?disp...roductid=469410 is the correct one. If you want date @ 4.5 o'clock, this http://www.cousinsuk.com/default.aspx?disp...roductid=469854 is the correct one. Unable to tell whether this http://watchpart.co.uk/date-ring-oclock-wi...7750-p-943.html is @ 3 or @ 4.5 o'clock. And I just wonder why they call it 2556 (which is the date indicator driving wheel) rather than 2557. I would go with cousinsuk.

If you mean whether Lello and Finepics shared the same file, then no: they made their search and their work independently. But as far as I know both their fonts are the same as the genuine, so (for the transitive property of equality ) they are supposed to be the same font.

Yes, you should have bought another PAM even were the Rolex perfect.

Hi, you need a caliber 90 stem (0.90 mm diameter). But if you actually snapped your stem in half then an extender might not work, you might need a brand new stem. The extender works good when the stem is just cut short on its crown end, so that you just need a short extender. That is because the extender's female end is a swelling end that can't go deep into the movement, it needs to stay inside the spacer ring between the movement and the case wall. Hope this makes sense.

I had it PVD re-coated by palpatine. At that time he was offering beadblasting and PVD recoating by the same company making PVD treatment for the gens, so it was supposed to be exactly gen-like. But the company had changed the treatment a little between 1999 and 2006, so it actually came out a little too black. Or maybe it's me that I am a little too picky. Not a great issue anyway, as PVD treatments differ quite a bit on different instances. The closest-with-the-gen PVD treatment I heard was that from Finepics. But that option is not available anymore.

Hi yellomen, maybe you swapped the things? Or my poor English prevented me from getting it? The correct writing is "L SWISS MADE L", while the uncorrect one is "L SWISS 6 MADE L". Incidentally, the less expensive asian 21J 104 from Josh (108 USD) has a correct dial, while the most expensive 7750 version has the uncorrect one. I got that cheap 104 and got satisfied. It has awesome overall look, good out-of-the-box lume, decent cyclops, and it keeps great time. Rather, its flaws are the date font (I came to change the datewheel), a caseback with a fancy "diver's professional" writing, and a brushed-instead-of-polished case (that I love very much, though).

Rep but nice.

001: sausage dial, solid caseback, OP II movement 111h: sandwich dial, display caseback, OP XI movement (swan neck regulator and redesigned bridges)

Thanks guys for your kind words, you make me blush. @lanikai: I am no watchsmith, but... if it is definitely confirmed that your watch stops at 5 o'clock when the lever is pressed and it runs when the lever is open or loose, then yes, there is a chance that the stem may be a little too longer. Stopping always at the same hour suggests that there is some mechanical impediment somewhere, and as at 5 o'clock there is nothing that can interfere with the movement of the hands (neither the small second hand nor the cyclops), perhaps a long stem might get a little warped by the lever's pressure and interfere with the movement somehow. Just, in this case, acting on the CG or the lever is not a good solution. If this is the case, the fix is shortening the stem a little -- by filing it on its crown end after emoving it out from the crown. With a stem replacement ready at hand. @chieftang: you are absolutely right. I seem to remember that the fellow who removed the small lens out of the 2892-A2 was kruzer00. Anyway, it's a very good thing that your cyclopses perform so impressively on 2893 models rather than on 2892s, being the 2893 waaaaay more widely spreaded across the boards.

Dadog, what you have to find is 'just' the stem. 'Stem extender' is not a part of the stem. Neither the threaded part nor the opposite part. A stem extender is just an added prolonge, used to (guess!) extend the length of a stem whose threaded part has been mistakenly cut too short. Exactly just that thing that we talked about and that was on the cousinsuk site. So (should Ubi don't have the needed stem) don't use a keyword 'extender' in your search, just 'stem' or 'crown stem' (naturally besides '6497', 'watch movement', or so).

Marrickvilleboy, thanks for coming back. The problem here is that the 2892A2 is much smaller than our 090s datewheel. The date window in our 090s is placed (outer border) 13.2 mm from the center of the dial, while the 2892A2 datewheel has a radius (outer border as well) of just 11.64 mm. That is a 1.52 mm difference, a lot of space. What I can guess is that the movement in your 090 is different from mine and Lello's. Or -- less likely? -- that the datewheel from that omega 2892 based movement was not so identical to the 2892A2 datewheel. Is there any chance that you can measure and tell us the distance of the outer border of your date window from the center of the dial?

Wow, I see you are a wine connoisseur! Probably the best red wine of Lazio! (even if it actually comes from the Lazio/Umbria border). If you happen to pass here and miss to let me know be sure I'll kill you. Or -- even worse to you -- I'll give you wrong specs on a possible next project of ours.

Lello just went into a sudden and unexpected health issue. We used to stay in constant contact but it is more than 24 hrs now that I have no news from him so it's likely that he currently has no computer access. One thing that he told me before the current blackout is that all his works will be delayed at least 20 days because of this. So don't worry if you have no reply from him for a while, it is not due to his will and I am sure that he will be back as soon as possible to anyone that has an open transaction with him.

Ouch, dadog! Where did all the residual stem length vanish?? It's out of any chance to fix it with an extender. The bulging end (female end) of the extender would go right into the depth of the movement. Get a stem replacement. Sorry. Should you have troubles in finding one, I'll add my search skills to yours.

1 gen Piaget, 1 gen Glycine KMU48, 3 gen Seiko Kinetic (all dead), about 15 PAM reps, 1 AP RO rep, and a bunch of low-end different reps (Polex, PP, JLC, Bulgari, Lacoste etc).

Oh my! I am dying with envy and I have to look at my best PAMs in search for a little comfort. They all are gorgeous (I especially love the 111), and those straps fit perfectly. Congrats!

Thanks for chiming in, Pugwash. Unfortunately, already checked extensively.

Thanks omega1! That is an exceptional find and now you have me completely converted to the 2530 thesis. Now, if only we could find the specs of the ST/TY-2530!... My apologies to r11co for this hijacking. In my defense I can only say that this is a search that all 090 owners might benefit from.

Grrrrrr...... My envy is just soothed by a hope that that 'my favorite Italian of all time' might point to someone that I am in knowledge with. And thanks for your gorgeous-as-always review on this topic, archie!

Unfortunately, no. They all would need crown-cyclops-datewheel replacements (at least 2 out of those three replacements). And I am just focusing on the most expensive A7750 models. Cheaper models also don't have a correct caseback. I heard on RWI that there are rumors that a new generation of autos with date is close to make appearance (especially a 104). Maybe we'd better wait a while. Even if I doubt that those new models, if any, will hit the market while there are significant numbers of unsold current models. In the meanwhile, I would like to point out that Finepics' or Lello's datewheel, coupled with chieftang cyclops, gives excellent results on date models. But here I am going far away from the out-of-the-box constraint.