ubiquitous

I like it... I like it a lot! Nice concept you have with this... It's a good spin to the traditional solid backs with engraving...

16800 came with a 93150 with 580's on it. 16660 had a 93160 with 592 SELs. (borrowed photo).

Very nice!! 1016? Throw a Tropic 22 on that and I'd call it done

If you want platinum... One of my sources has a genuine platinum dial and bezel set from a 16622; in used condition and the bezel needs to be refinished. Only $2800.00 for the combo. EDIT to add... It's egregiously overpriced

Even if you swap He Valves out, it's still wrong! Genuine 16600's have a titanium valve...

The vintage inserts only used one kind of pearl, and that's the one with the lume dot in the acrylic setting. The new style ones with the metal setting is without a doubt aftermarket, as this is something that Rolex only began using with the 16800/16660/16610 sapphire models only (the pearl setting is actually WG). As for determining the authenticity of a vintage insert with a missing pearl- There are a couple of factors. First is the finish of the insert itself. These are hard anodized and very durable. The thickness of the insert is substantial. The font of the markers are very slim and precise, and the hole for the pearl setting is very small in diameter. There are other determining factors, but this gives you an idea of the bigger clues to look for...

Cost will not drop lower than $50 per dial. That is the lowest it will go regardless of how many dials above 10 are made.

Negative. Pearl looks like it has a metal surround as is too large in diameter. This is how a genuine pearl for a vintage should look... And on the left... EDIT to correct that the actual lume dot looks too large...

I would kill myself on a Ducati... Or any bike for that matter! Plus, I need something that can also haul two car seats if the need should arise...

Let it be known... j/k!

The answer for the best SD is a little different, methinks, as there aren't any really accurate 16600 modern SD's available. Hence, it's easier to narrow it down to the vintage MBW, as that's the only one worth buying. The Sub is a little different, as there are so many variations of it, with so many different opinions on each that it becomes difficult to really reduce the list, especially when you have a new version out every 6 months. Constantly evolving models makes it difficult to ascertain every example out there. Or, we're just getting soft

slay- Just two cars between my wife and I. I have the MB, and she has the Audi, but somehow I am always the one who ends up driving... I'd like to get rid of my car and get an NSX, but perhaps not a great idea considering we have another baby on the way.

Ahhhh... After looking at that 2nd image again- The one that I thought was an old image of the Yachtie, it's now perfectly clear to me... That isn't the full size 16622, but rather the mid-size 168622. The cyclops was what finally clued me in...

Gorgeous pics, as always Neil!

Just a small and rather insignificant update- Spoke with my dial guy and he is going over the layout of the font, the style, etc. I have stressed the importance of the shape of the coronet, the font used for ROLEX (emphasizing the semi-eliptical shaped O), the bold, dark red of the 'YACHT-MASTER' font, etc. I have asked about the possibility of SuperL; he will have to check pricing on that and will get back to me. My gut feeling is that he may not offer this due to cost exceeding his prior quote.

Bill- Genuine inserts are very distinct in appearance. The pearl is quite uique- A small dot of lume in an acrylic surround (as doc mentioned). A couple of pics from the junk bins... A comparison of vintage and modern pearls... Hope this helps...

I suspect there does exist a repped Pre-V Logo buckle... But Veni would know for sure...

Well.... For one, Day-Dates are solid precious metal- i.e. there are no two-tone variants. The other issue is weight. 18k YG, WG, RG and PT models weigh a ton...

Nice looking Cosmo... The white dial is a classic!

Have you tried GS? They have all sorts of crystals by size...

Sorry.... Not with those bracelets...

Well... Yes. I did post something about that. But there are always other routes to take to obtain an MBW. If one knows just where to look...

Good stuff, Bill. Please post some pics along the way! R

I like and respect George very much. He is a great guy who tries to help people out when he can. However, I agree 100% with slay- George doesn't need this grief. He has a day job that he works very hard at with very long hours. The last thing he probably wants is to have to spend 4 to 5 hours of his day (in addition to his regular job) answering emails from people asking about buying watches, challenging or haggling the pricing, demanding to know where their watches are or why their watch hasn't shipped yet, etc. For this reason alone, I have never given out George's info without getting his okay on a referral first. George is not a 'dealer' per se, and as slay mentioned, if he wanted to be one, then he'd pay for a dealer account. As for my prior comment about doing research... I wish more people would do the due diligence of actually researching! I had to research things when I was new... I had to find and establish my parts sources... If I can do it, then I know the majority of our members can do it too.

MBW... For sure. Especially with gen parts