ubiquitous

Stay tuned... A couple of us are working on something that will knock your guys' socks off!

Wow, Arch! This looks like a SWEET watch! Seeing this one is making me twitch a little... The kind of twitch when you know you want... No, wait... NEED something. Looks damn nice, my friend...

For a 14000M rep, it's not bad. Dunno about the color of the dial though...

Very intriguing Rob. Very intriguing indeed.

Chris... One can NEVER have enough!! Mail back atcha!

Angus had one for sale. Think it was from a TAG. Dunno if it's still available... Sometimes you can find complete movements with the DD already fitted on eBay. And, sometimes you can find just the module for sale to add to your own 2892. They're out there... Just have to keep an eye on the market.

I'm not certain if another El Primero is in order. Having a white dial would be nice, but there are so many other projects on my list that I'd like to do at some point as well

You've tracked down... Gen inserts? Modern or vintage?

I must admit that the 76 looks to be of very high quality, no matter how ugly it is

Once I hear or see anything on the prototype, I'll be sure to let you guys know

7750's have a longer PR by design. Usually around 46 hours vs. 40 hours for the 28xx ETAs.

The luminous dot inserts were used on 5512's/5513's/5514's/1680's/1665's, etc. up until the transition in the mid 80's to the sapphire 16800's and 16660's, where they were replaced with the new pearl using the white gold setting. Old luminous pearl (dot) inserts: New luminous pearl (WG setting) inserts:

That would be the proper way of doing it.

Hmmm... Thought this was the same lug width as the Jones for some reason.

Miss Understood only wants someone to get into her PANNIES (especially Bob). So, it's likely she'll tell you anythng that you want to hear, just in hopes to land you in the sack to show you her Superdomes.

Are they offering a version with 22mm lugs yet?

There's only one way to do a Daytona, and that's the right way. Start with a 36.600bph caliber 400 with full auto-winding capability... And a case with the correct dimensions (in this case, a genuine case. Can't get more correct than that)... The result- A fully functional autowinding Daytona. No workarounds needed. BTW... A good portion of the added thickness of the 7750 is on the dial side of the movement (it's not just the rotor). In order to squeeze in those extra gears, they had to add additional bridgeplates which adds additional height, and hence 'pushes' the stem further towards the back of the case than a standard 7750's stem would sit. This is ultimately the reason why the movement needs a thick case, and why the new versions of the Daytona with the slimmer rehaut and bezel have the stem positioned too far towards the back (and you get a sunken in crown at the CG's). If the stem has to sit further back, then the tube also needs to sit just as far back as you need the stem to line up center in the tube. If the stem has to be pushed back, then the case needs to be thicker, and so on etc. And in the end... You're left with a manual wind movement in a watch that needs to be an automatic.

I love this disclaimer: I DO NOT WORK ON FAKE WATCHES. A fake is anything that is not genuine no matter what you call it. It is illegal to own or have in your possession a fake Rolex. DO NOT CONTACT ME ABOUT WORKING ON YOUR FAKE WATCH. BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!

Wow... Rolex sure does know how to alienate their clientele. On a slightly different note... Some of you may know that Rolex Service Centers/Rolex USA are refusing to service vintage watches from the 70's and earlier; the only solution for collectors of rare (and very expensive examples I might add, e.g. 1665 DRSDs, 1655 OH's, 6263's, 6265's, PNs, etc ad nausea) is to direct those individuals to independent watchmakers for service. Since RSC's do not sell genuine parts to 3rd party watchmakers any longer, the parts used for service are either going to be what's left NOS in the watchmaker's bins, or aftermarket parts. So, where does that leave the collector? Basically up [censored] creek with (technically) a frankenwatch that violates copyright infringement, as the parts are not 100% Rolex? Man... Those MBW's are looking better and better by the minute

kruzer... The more you talk about this one, the more tempted I become in getting one. DAMN YOU!!

2836 should have a PR of around 40 hours. Try giving it a full wind, and check to see how long it runs. As for noises inside the case- I can hear the rotor(s) in my 2824/2836/2846/2892 watches when I hold them to my ear and give them a little shake. Not loud... But you should be able to hear something.

D- That combination is p-e-r-f-e-c-t-! I love it!!

Great looking Sub! The Tommy and Oli mods have been performed to perfection

Hmmm... Cost to build is one of those difficult factors, as availability of parts is always an unknown, and the cost of such parts varies between whom you purchase from, and where said parts are sourced. Of course, another large factor in the equation is the cost of labor. If you can do this work yourself, you can cut out a large portion of the cost right there. Parts will run you plenty as it is. To give you a very quick run down on what a typical cost might be for a 1665: -MBW vintage watch $300 - $400 US -Genuine T-39 flat crystal $100 US -Genuine bezel insert $130 US -Genuine Crown (new) $70 US; (used) as low as $15 US -Genuine Tube (new) $50 US; Aftermarket Tube (new) $20 US -Genuine Springbars $20 US -Genuine End Links $75 US -ETA 2846 to correct the beat $70 - $100 US -Hollow link Oyster (gen) $800 US; (rep) $50 - $80 US Again, these are mid to high prices to be expected if casually shopping around. Some parts are incredibly difficult to source, like the bezel inserts. True genuine vintage NOS inserts with the acrylic pearl are no longer available. I wish I still had my old stash...

Good question W I got this one because my Uncle has been bugging me about the possibility of building a Yachtie. So... I started looking around at my options. I decided on Ed's 16622, as it looked the business on the hard parts. Case, bezel, etc all looked good. The bezel markers were especially critical to me- I've seen many YM's done with the incorrect font shape, incorrect size, markers too close to the inner edge of the bezel insert, and most importantly, the spacing between the 3 and 0 in '30' had to be correct (most seem to have too large of a gap between these numbers). After having rec'd this one, I think I'll keep it I'm working with a dial maker to have some custom dials made, which, I hope to see a prototype in a few weeks, and perhaps a few other mods. Strange... As someone who never really cared for the sapphire crystal model Rolex's, I sure seem to have quite a few of them in my collection as of late.