ubiquitous

Mmmmm... Loves me some buxom beauties...

Thanks, guys I think the fine tuning part of the build is maybe the most tedious, as I'll adjust something, wear the watch for a few days to see if there's any details that need to be adjusted further or cleaned up and repeat the process. I'll have the watch apart several times in the next few months as I note the areas that need to be addressed. This is where the OCD kicks in Ephry- When it comes to CGs, there were many different types and shapes of guards during the plexi era, compounded by the fact that polishing and wear can change the overall shape as well. In other words, there are many, many variations to choose from. What I typically do is find an example of what I like (aesthetically) and do my best to emulate. e.g.- Here's what I based mine on... And my results... Guards can be a tricky thing to do, as it's very easy to take them too far; there's no going back so it's a job best suited for a quiet moment with lots of mental prep time

I use a series of fine grade sandpapers; typically start at 800 and work up to 1500 grit wet. Finish with cape cod for a polished surface.

It's in the 'fine tuning' stages of the build

Took the watch apart today in between conf calls and did a quick 10 minute CG job.

To be continued...

Thanks, D. Hmmm... Interesting question you've raised. For a gen 1665 fitted with lumi parts (i.e. assuming that the dial, hands and insert were lumi service replacement), I'd have no problems buying at $7k - $8k. I've seen tritium dials selling in the $900 - $1200 range for the small and long FT dials; $1800 - $2k seems about right for the rail dials. Tritium hands seem to run around $250 - $300 and a tritium thick font can be had for around $200 - $400 depending on overall condition, fade/tone and pearl color. Once exchanged, the lumi parts can be sold to offset the cost of the tritium parts. If one were savvy (and patient) enough, there could even be a small profit involved; that's after considering the possibility of having paid luminova pricing for a tritium 1665 Timing is everything...

Thanks, chief! I do appreciate it! Well, today I brought the watch in for a pressure test and it passed with flying colors. Not that I do anything more than rinsing, showering and at the most swimming with any of my watches, it's nice to know that they'll all hold up to some submersion time if need be

Best of thoughts, hopes and wishes for Sixx. Hoping for a speedy recovery...

Heh... It's kind of funny- I used to obsess about the silver datewheel. And these days, I'm just kinda meh about them

Killer piece Zeleni!

Steve, The daywheel language type is kind of personal pref to what you want; since it's a regional thing, it can technically be anything you want it to be (pending availability, etc). Personally, I went with a German daywheel on my 3717 since the Fliegeruhr is a German style pilots watch: For my 3719... I'll probably stick with Anglais...

Vly- The MC is looking good! Friday wear- 5514: legendkiller- Are you trying to upload pics directly to the forum, or are you using a 3rd party image hosting site like photobucket?

Congrats!

WAZZZZAAAAAP

A datewheel from a 1556 would work as well for an overlay- The only issue with using datewheels from the DDs (1555/1556/3055/3155) is that the date is slightly more inset on the dial than that of a 1570/3055/3135. So, it will be off center in the date window if you're looking to use one in an an ETA Sport-Date build...

That is a 700. The seller just has it listed incorrectly as a 702...

B has good hands

Well, the 703 was an improved Triplock as it had the exterior gasket on the tube. But 702 and 703 both have 2 gaskets inside the tube whereas the 700 only has 1.

A looks like a rep to me. B looks gen. I'll admit- This is a tricky one, but I'm looking at and comparing the crown position and hands.

702 is technically a Triplock. 700 is a Twinlock...

Have to agree... 702 is my favorite as well...

Congrats to hitting the 1k milestone!

DL- I was told that the watch is a train engineer's watch that would hang on a hook in the engine compartment. I think I need to check with the NAWCC or AWCI to see if anyone knows anything about it; I've not found or seen anything discussed on this piece otherwise

I know that the piece dates to 1905/1906... That's really about it. Never seen another like it.