jmb

Thanks, although I can't for the life of me figure out where "rail" came from I can see the difference! Speaking of dials, were there any vintage "no-date" Sea Dwellers?

OK, I'll bite and show that I'm pure newb, what's a "rail" dial?

I don't wear this one very much but for some reason I figured it needed a "baptism of chips" so I've decided that today it's a "shop watch"! I wanted this bugger soooo bad and after I got it I hardly ever wear it except at night when I can admire it's fantastic blue lume - go figure...

Thanks, all, for the responses and council. This would have been installing a 2824 wheel into a 2836 so I guess it's a no-go.

Are the physical date wheels interchangeable between 2836-2 and 2824 movements?

Here's my latest "fantasy" piece on a riveted bracelet:

omgiv, mcmaster.com

I just got in a chunk of large diameter Delrin I ordered to make some custom dies for my crystal press so I just might try making something similar to the Burgeon tool. Also, it might be interesting to get some "square" Delrin and make something like a set of replacement jaws for a small machinist vise.

Very good prices, I usually order from MSC Direct...

It depends. If you hit a hard spot one bit might not get all the way through one! Rapid Tap is good oil, I use it and it's used where I work. I would think that hard spots might not be a problem with a solid carbide bit. At $10/ea I will be very curious about your results. Remember, carbide is extremely brittle

Yeah, I doubt your local Ace Hardware would have numbered drill bits! I usually buy them by the dozen as sometimes it takes a couple of bits to do a case... Someday when I get rich I'll order a carbide to see if the outrageous cost is worth it as far as number of pieces produced...

Or a #55 bit for the thru-hole...

Good deal!

I'll have to admit that this particular shade of blue (I love the color of your TT) would not be on my "favorites list" but this looks very nice - I'd wear it! Good "shooting", F!

Seems most of them on the 'bay are in the $50 - $60 range whereas the Tudor Subs command a much higher "ransom".

I don't have this one anymore but it was the second rep I ever purchased. Since I didn't trust a seconds at 6 Daytona this seemed a logical choice. It was one of watcheden/idolreplicas advertised "Same chassis as 7750" versions. The only reason I got rid of it was I found a seconds at 9 Daytona so that satisfied my chronograph needs and this was the only non-Rollie watch in the drawer and I really didn't like the band styling. It was very well made, had good weight, and kept scary accurate time! This pic was right after unpacking it so pardon it being dirty.

T, never been a fan of straps. Although some look nice I've never found them very comfortable and I hate fiddling with the buckle. It is on a vintage style non SEL bracelet, though! There have been a lot of Tudor Prince Date dials on flea-bay lately and I'm half tempted to get one...

Photoshop is really full featured but I don't find any of 'em real easy! I have downloaded Corel Draw to work on some "secret" projects as I have read for what I want to do it would be best to use a "raster based" program... In photoshop overlaying images is pretty easy by just using two layers, one for each image...

I'm starting to like this one, it's very comfortable. I originally bought it to hack up for a project but I'm now having second thoughts...

high, so do I. Even though I really like Daytonas their lack of date is a big downer...

Thanks for the good news!

The insert referenced in the link is one of the better ones available for the DSSD - assuming this is the model you are looking for.

I don't think you'll find an end-mill that small with that kind of depth of cut.

omgiv, neat looking little drill press! I think this, coupled with your vise and cross-slide vise should "gitter done"! What I have done is machined an aluminum bar which I can clamp the case to and then clamp the bar in the vise but this is just to make the setup quicker and simpler. As a general rule of thumb the smaller the drill the higher the rpm as cutting speed is calculated as Surface Feet/Minute, the surface being the drill bit outer edge. Here's something from the web that pretty much matches my books: Drilling Speed in rpm = (CS x 4) / dia where CS = cutting speed in sfm = 300 for aluminum, 120 for brass and bronze, 90 for low carbon steel, 70 for cast iron, and 50 for alloy steel. So ballpark speed for a .079" bit in alloy steel would be (50x4)/.079 = 2531 RPM. If you drill too slow with a small bit it may "grab" and snap - major PITA if you're 3/4 done and then snap off a bit, DAMHIK! Use plenty of cutting oil and not too light a cut so you don't burnish or work-harden the stainless. CN cases are a crap-shoot - one will drill like butter while the next might take a bit per hole! If you can afford carbide bits you shouldn't have any problems.

T, I like the brushed bezel!