PeteM

What you mean is... You joined the forum... Didn't bother reading the introductions for new members or any of the noob guides then decided to ask a very well documented question. In doing so you then felt 'hurt' by the replies... And because of your lack of willingness to take your time in getting to know the place you react in a way that only makes you look more ridiculous. Take a chill pill mate... Take some time to look around.. Read the intro threads and use the search system... Once you get a feel for things then I am sure you will realise just how daft your thread and comments are.. And frankly the only truly courageous person posting here is you...after all any one can stop and think and use those grey cells but it takes someone with balls to jump straight in without even considering the environment which they are entering...

calibration

Well mate... you either have a top notch Franken or the real deal.... Frankens are very very rare in this model..... and are not really worth the effort to put together TBH... so yeah my money is on gen.. In respect of the warranty card.... that does happen especially on grey market stuff (ie Non AD)... its also happens due to simple human error... Did you buy face to face? or over the phone/internet? If you want to you can PM me a pic of the card... I can tell you if its gen...make sure its both sides. Also let me know how you bought it... What you are experiencing isnt uncommon mate so dont get too worried

cathetus

Only ever been one team.. West Ham United CYI !! Gave those scummers a spanking today.....

Well overall it looks gen mate.... The U-Boat is correctly positioned over the DW ..I have not seen any reps with this and have also in the past discussed this issue with a TD who was adamant there was no rep so far with that dial corrected and nor was there one in the pipeline... The sub dial at three ... I cant see it properly.... Is it flush with the dial? whereas the the other subdials are recessed slightly? If so then thats right too... All reps have subdials all recessed which is incorrect.. The actual UB typeface colour is also gen like the rep has never got this colour right and tend to have it white as it easier to mark up the dial for the rep makers.. plus hands and dial markers are right... the rep gets this wrong on all models they use the same finish whereas gen has different white on hands to that of markers.. I cant see the serial numbers between the lugs so just check those mate against the paperwork... The CB and rotor are the older model but fortunately the reps have the CBs with the later CB and engraving Plus that aint a rep strap mate... the rep straps are like cheap cardboard...

Post a pic mate.. That way we can see it and let you know if its gen

He has mate... check out the other thread

You can still buy quartz versions I was looking at a gold one in a shop window the other day.. But the tells on all the rep Uboats are easy to spot on the dial.... for example on the flightdeck the subdial at three on the rep is indented the gen isnt... also the UBoat type over the DW is misplaced on the rep... the vertical left edge of the DW sits below the right hand upright of the U but the rep the edge of DW sits in the middle of the U.. Of course there are others on this one and other similar rep models...

Thats not correct mate.... The Non matching issue arose only in the 201a and 202a... and only in the first batches...I cant recall the exact millesimation off the top of my head... the issue of thick or thin indices relates to the luming.... the dials were lumed by different guys and some would stay within the cutouts of the indices (ie not lume the edges) and the more hasty lumers would allow the lume to sit on the edges... this gives the appearance of the indices being thick or thin.... if you seek out some PreV macros of dials you can see how the lume sits relative to my comments before... so the indices do not vary... PreV dials are almost sandwich like in depth so these effect is very easily created by hasty lumers.. As I recall there was an old article on Risti which i think got stickied into the archive... The PreA dials are old PreV dials with the PreV typeface inscription replaced with Cartier typeface however you can see these appear even thinner but again it was the lume application that gave rise to this and indeed the sausage nick name This difference occurred from the start so matching and non matching were effected... Vanni had some great examples...

Did I mention in my last post about the 0.01% of us members that are just plain stupid!! Cheers mate

Hi mate I hope all is well with you Now first thing I must say is I dont have to hand my notes when I researched my options in modding the V2 Tag maker diver but from memory this is what I found.. The gen weighs around 138.. The CF diver is 144.. The V2 is about 203 A Swiss 7750 weighs around 44... the asian was around 50... The skeleton weighs from 20 upto 23ish... there are also skeleton options on the rotor if you can source them in terms of material which would certainly give you below lower end weight (this info was given from several sources including a couple of mods and a local watchsmith I contacted a TD about the V3 as he had mentioned in a tear down when it came out that it had a Ti midcase unlike the V2 which is SS.... he confirmed that to me when discussed... so given the differences these options would make a significant difference when you add in the movement... So with those options I was reckoning on a saving around 25-30 on the movement and then what ever I could get on the midcase etc but conservatively I would suggest 8 but possibly much more..

And all over £45 !! But I am a little confused... Who is Gtharn? Lunarglide? Did he re-register again and again? ie Lunarglide- Gtharn-Barkingmad? I still dont get how it got to be such a big deal... one had to shut up and the other just fill in the claim form...after that he could walk away having done all he could in the eyes of everyone... Its a shame that it resorted to empty words.... afterall we can really say what we like on here ..its a barrier to any consequence in 99.9% of the cases... Just glad that 99.9% of our members arent so immature and stupid as to resort to ridiculous and inane comments to other members let alone our mods!!

Picking up on the lume comments.... I think we should find a way of grouping watch relumes.... what I mean is that Domi has a RCTrictec lumograph machine... however its not cost effective for him to use it because the machine requires a minimum load of lume...as we all know lume itself is quite pricey.. So if a way could be found to create a way of grouping watch lume jobs ... it could drastically improve the relume service Domi offers and would make it the best available lume option over other choices... I am thinking aloud but any suggestions would be welcome... Domi has a busy life at the moment and has had a good few personal issues as well as his family so jst be preapred to wait...it will be worth it...

The watch is now 850 as the gen strap has been split I understand.... However if TnG installed an ETA 2836 it must be a V3? Going by DW position and other details it certainly looks like one.... plus he only got the dial and hands relumed so they dont match now with the inner bezel... I dont have a problem with spending that sort of dosh but surely its better to keep to maker specs unless you can be sure on making sure the mods are worth that additional cost... I mean that lume alone would attract more attention than the rep lume would... then the DW position and hand stack etc etc... plus the case flaws ....... blah blah blah..

For those with the money the weight differential can be reduced significantly.... A skeleton Valjoux 7750 and V3 midcase However I did save a bit of weight just using a skeleton rotor weight.. not a lot but its noticeable. The actual difference in weight of the head comes out at around 65 grammes between the gen and the V6.. I am basing that on the weight of my V2 compared to gen.. I have seen some rep weights stating it at 215g but when I weighed mine it was 203g... I also found that the bezel lightening wasnt necessary on my one.. I assume that might be a consistency issue with the maker or rather the bezel maker who supplies the Tag factory. So far I have it relumed, and rebrsuhed plus the Swiss 7750 with a skeleton rotor... also I have had the plastic cogs replaced from the inner bezel...all its waiting on is the AR Then it will go on a gen strap But as an aside has anyone seen the gen owner who modded the lugs to take ordinary straps... with the diver H screws? Must say I think it looks good but does mean I believe that the QR is US now which was implied but from the pics below I am not sure how he fitted the original strap...but regardless at least you can have more strap options...

The biggest issue with the H CG is the tip of the lever... stands out on the wrist to those few that know.... but those that would ... would probably see the other flaws too... on the whole no one would be able to tell.... from the answers above thats a given The latest AP/Noob maker CG is the better... so is the rest of the watch so as has been said if you want the best and easiest version Use the guts of the 390 and the carcass etc of the V3 noob 111 The hex crown is better also on the AP/noob... the issue of the lever sticking out is pretty common regardless of maker and is easily resolved especially if you want to sort the hex crown spacing..

W-C is still down for me (

Rabbit

The key area of going through customs with reps or rather the higher risk in terms of customs... (not talking about baggage handlers etc) is returning to your own country... Now its not because its a rep but rather that you may be trying to bring in something that you purchased with out paying duties on it.... now that aspect (Customs duty) and thresholds varies from country to country... visiting another country carries less if any risk in respect of customs.... especially if you are wearing the item... you could consider similar risks in wearing a rep Armani etc especially in Italy... remember as a temporary vistor you have already gone through security and customs in the departure country.... upon leaving you are facing security and valuables on your person are checked for that purpose... not customs Having been there myself several times... I have worn and carried reps and never had a problem or even an inquistive eye... Though i did get a lot of interest going out of the UK.... one customs guy asked me if I liked watches I always carry my watches on my person.... I usually wear long sleeves as well... but not because of customs... that because I dont like the idea of getting 'marked' in the airport or outside... I really wouldnt give customs a second thought going anywhere.... but I would and do always consider the security of any of my valuables and how they attract or might attract the wrong sort of people looking to 'mark' me as a holidaying mug...

Nice one ... that made me laugh... Just a side note that its a true

Flip -Flop

Usually these guys are appointed from within the system.... I recall the last guy was the watchsmith from the HoP... the one that looks after Big Ben... I think maybe that they know already who will be employed but they are just going through the employment law requirements..

But the other end in terms of slowest is 3 months....

wishful