Rolexaddict

lot of head scraping... to stay polite... supreme of what ???? buy a gen, a gen is the supreme of supreme

o.k doc, your pics comparison is talking, when I have time I will post what I get with a basic 10usd from OFrei re-shaped and polished, the spherical design and his unique effect, the right design can be checked under water, the dial and markers should appear without distorsion or aberrations

Here, they have a lot, but I admit, an original dome design is at least 63usd from Clark http://www.ofrei.com/page419.html Also remember, Rolex stopped with the super dome as they had a lot of problems... my big brother was a marketing manager for Comex between 1969 and 1976, so we had a few 5514 at home all sold to buy an aircraft, more fun than a watch. I insist, could be wrong, but I don't understand -talking waterproofing- this way consisting to put gen parts on a rep, this is an expensive heresy

You are lucky, your rehaut looks like the gen watch, those from Josh are to high and need to be reduced... but on the nother side, they have the correct silver date wheel

Epoxy molecular structure and latice is better than Loctite which was developped initially to block screws and not for waterproofing ops Epoxy will not harm or ruin a watch. No need a torch to disassemble a tube which has a light coat of epoxy on threads, and for the plexi, anyway, even without glue, when you remove it need to be replaced with a new, and it cost 10usd... About waterproofing : The 3 parameters are static pressure, dynamic pressure and the weight of water. And avoid hot water and showers even with a gen Rolex

Ephry73, have a look here : VSO Remember, ETA disc don't have Rolex specs, you will have to glue the Rolex disc on the ETA disc

Very nice ! The first thing I pay attention when observing a Sub is the réhaut. Most of the time its ugly deep and to much conical, here, its perfect,

I am quite sure - according what I experienced- the problem comes almost always from the cristal/plexi assembly. At the moment I started to use epoxy to create a joint and "melt" steel and plastic, my watches were 100% waterproof. Even for tubes I use epoxy to fix it, instead of loctite, and thick waterproof wax for gaskets

.............. ...................... well, even rep tubes are sealed with Chinese Loctite, or Chinese epoxy, the problem is not the tube, nor case back or crown, the problem is the plexi assembly, As I said, use glue for the plexi, and stop thinking gen parts are better than Chinese stuff, gen + rep is not the best compromise, and use intelligence to understand what are the rules to put a watch in water, read and learn, there are lot of books about water pressure and basic physic, just my 2 cents...

You should have a total of 4 gasquets : One flat gasquet inside the triplock crown (if its a 7mm triplock rep), one ring inside the tube and one ring outside the tube. Then the case ring allowing to seal the case with the case back. If these 4 gasquets are properly waxed, the problem comes not from there, but only from the plexi, this is 99,99% sure. To remove to check the flat ring inside the crown, use a sewing needle Even if its a gen dome, your watch has a plexi/steel contact problem, as even gen 5512, 13 and 1665 had a waterproof problem with domes. That's why last batches of subs and SD with plexies had cases with a groove around the plexi wall contening an o-ring. And moreover Rolex stopped with domes to put a different plexi design less domed. And talking about waterproofing, gen parts on a rep doesn't mean a more reliable watch A light coat of epoxy at the base of the dome will allow to dive. I have 100usd reps which are descended to more than 80m in diving

Thanks for your comments, As I said, all 1675 I have built are made with the 1655 from Josh as case background. I use the complete set -retaining ring, washer, bezel ring and insert- from WSO. The new batch of Clark 25-116 (named new Clark) have the right inside specs and fit very well on the case rehaut. The problem is to stack the retaining ring, the plexi outside diameter is to large, its quite impossible to stack even with a press. For this, I prefer myself remove material on the outside base of the plexi (a plexi cost 6$) instead of ruining the expensive stainless steel retaining ring. Lug holes are of course enlarged at Rolex specs and I use gen Rolex springbars. Bracelets end links have also to be modified to accept gen springbars. The 1655 case back is round and polished. 1675 have a flat brushed case back. So the case back is surfaced, I let this job to a machine shop. Dials are from a collectors connexion in paris and Italy, and also from Yuki. Yukie's from last year were excellent. The quality now is not very good, also they don't have any more the chapter dial, and all other I bought recently have poor text printing and I give all of them to be refinished, I relume myself as the refinishing shop uses luminova which looks like ugly white plastic NDT dial prices are excessive, and I am not sure they are better than Yuki... For movements, I stop with eta's 2834_2836 series, not at all reliable, the 4th hand is not native. The 2893 is to much expensive. The asian DG3804B is very good and its a true GMT low beats movement

Some of my toys, All are built with Josh's 1655 Explorer case, DG 3804B movements, better reliability than ETA, they are true gmt 4th hand movements, various sources for dials and hands, various sources for bracelets, end links and clasps, VSO complete bezel assemblies, Clark 25-116. All case backs have been flat machined as these watches has such casebacks, not round and polished like 5513 subs The brown TT has a WSO bezel and native 1655 crown, both gold platted by a professional shop in Paris : standards European jewlery are 5 microns of 18k coat, here we have 10 microns of 24k fine gold, the process is not electo chemical, on SS its like PVD deposition. Very sticky an strong coat. The brown TT is a special order for a customer. Pics are not very good enough -sorry for dust- the gilt dial (gen Singer) is exeptional with sharp gold printings, The bracelet is a no-name 18k platted from VSO, I put a matching Rlx clasp Now this is my actual daily beater, a classic 1675, last issue, black insert, custom tritium lume, with the solid oyster bracelet and Datejust clasp Now a pair of El Corniño complete re-built from the basic Josh 1655 case, I am right now working on bracelets, one rivetted and one jubilee Exeptional Chapter dial, original Singer : More conventional rail dial :

I would like to give a last precision, After that you can continue philosophy and asking what is good or what is no good in the life I have customers, here in Paris, who buy from me since 2 years. They know my mods are made from aftermarket parts and are reps, but visually 95% like gens. Now, I upgrade my offer for these people : subs with a gen Rlx movement inside, matching end links, clasp numbers, etc. etc. These people want to own a vintage sub for a fraction of the cost of a 100% gen : a 5512 or 5513 or 1680 for 2500 euros, an authentic is at least 5000 euros. They perfectly know I sell sharp replicas, and they know I assume servicing in case of problem. Do you know, here, supposing you have a 5514 Comex from your father or uncle, and you need money because you lost your job and you have to pay the bills, a collector shop will buy it from you for 10.000 euros, fine. The next day you will see your watch for sale in the shop window for 80.000 euros... who are the scammers ? Where is the problem ? what is disturbing some people here ? I just talk about what I do, thats my private business, I don't scamm people on EBay, I hate EBay and these [censored] dealers selling faded GMT insert piece of chit for 200 usd And don't tell about ethic or WTF the good and honnest fake watches forums people.... Period. (for me, as I am very busy)

one more I picked up : rep forum member giving lessons about selling reps... What do you expect Star ? more prices/techs/sources infos ? A precision : last year when I start to build 1675, I had A LOT of pms on the other RWG board from people -probably from here- taking different pseudos, licking my boots and kissing my ass to have a 1675 built, for what ? probably just to try to sell the double on EBay or on another board, come on... You want some names ? just for fun... no, I am not a bastard, but... sometimes... wiesn089, please don't suppose things and don't act like other here, giving lesson and being moralist, my customers are perfectly in fact my new products will be rebuilt vintage, looking exactly like original, with gen parts, at a fraction of the price. Not EBay swindle.

I think you have just a regular formated brain made to understand regular formated forums discussions and basic regular emotions, like all these people who are graduated from high schools, or technocrats... giving lessons to the entire planet... just lol also (kidding ) seriously : my current 1675 production is not issue from cut sub cases or SD. I just upgrade my technics and knowledge from days to days. I don't sell anything here, I build and sell for collectionnors -not anals- paying a lot to have a close to perfect replica. My project is simple and doesnt need masturbation to be clear : a 5512 or 5513 or 1680 is actually around 5000 euros, or more, here in Europe. I can build such a watch with gen parts and movement for less than 2000 euros. I take a 1000 euros profit, and people have a perfect watch for 3000 euros instead of 5000 (and for 5000, most of the time you have a mix of gen and rep parts) Hope its clear, for me it is. And I have customers.

Correct hand stack for the old 1675 but the 16750 has another movement and the GMT hand is between the hours and minutes hands

1570 for a 1680 or 1520 for a 5512/13 Prices I mentionned are in euros, actually 1.000,00 usd is only 650,00 euros My project is based on usd currency but made for an European market (euro zone)

This is a nice project. And don't be affraid or don't ask you to much questions about waterproofing, you watch will be waterproof, just be logical in the reasoning and how to work. No mystic, just mechanic and logic. its like plumbing.

ok, sounds like Yuki sub cases are not better than these cartel cheap reps... surpassing all previous replications etc.etc... lol, Just a precision : first issued 5512/13 bezel contruction had just a retaining ring, a washer and the bezel. Late issued cases had a machined gap on the top of the case around the rehaut external wall. It was made to add a gasket to improve the waterproof abilities I will buy fron NDT, its 230usd more, this put my total production cost of one watch at 1679 usd. I reconfirm, this price is with a gen Rolex movement

Thanks LHOOQ, hummm, you appreciate the sticker... so... ... let me know,

Thats one of my Cosmographs with a jubilee

interesting project and good choice and components compromise, I want to use a gen movement as I can sell here in Paris very expensive if the movement is a gen, I know some purist who will buy anyway, as I will sell cheaper than a 100% authentic watch Do you know how to source MBW products ? I am a newbee with this stuff yes Scope, now I remember your post, this with the Yuki pics confirm the case is out of specs. I will probably source for MBW cases and take from Yuki dials and Rolex movements I did the same like you did on your Yuki case, but on a Josh Comex 1665 to convert to a 5514, I removed 1mm of metal from the top of the case, shortened the rehaut high and reduced the bezel thickness from its bottom, looks fine for me

I would like to know if some members have experiences/opinions/suggestions and techs comment to share about Yuki 5512, 5513 and 1680 cases. With a good experience and satisfaction having bought various parts from Yuki like dials, bracelets etc. I would like to know if cases are accurate : As if I look Yuki pics from the 5512 case, it looks fat like a SD case and bezel. If I talk with Yuki, of course, they will tell to me "its Rolex specs..." The project : My project is to built waterproofed Subs for sale with regulated gen Rolex movts 1570/1520, case, dial, hands, crown and bracelet, all parts coming from Yuki. The total cost - Yuki prices converted in € - is 1.467 euros for one complete building. I could sell one for...

Here on a 5513 The pearl doesn't match with lume, I don't care, its not my watch, I dont remember where I found these pics

Fantastic job, At this level of building and mod, using a V72 movement, personally I consider this watch like a gen. Chapeau bas