Rolexaddict

What you need to know : The gen Daytona powered with the v727 or v72 tri compax have a shorter spacing between the 9 and 6 subdials hand axis. Using these Chinese crapy mechanical movements with a frozen hand at 6 gives the apparence of a real Daytona Cosmograph. The difference is only 0,6mm with the v7750 series movements between axis, and the advantage is to provide a full tri-compax fonctions. Only anals can notice the difference. For myself, I prefer a full tri-compax fonctions than a handicaped watch, who, even with the correct sub-dial spacing; is still a fake. Be realist. Finally, put just 40.000 usd in, and you will have a gen Cosmograph

Pffff, amateur, I wear a quartz Daytona from Silix and that's my sport car

find on the web a shop who sells Lifecolor products, look for #LC33 Matt phosphor, very easy to work, apply, remove and dry in minutes. its acrylic which mixt with water, add an acrylic ivory pigment powder from an artist shop and get your vintage lume with humbrol you could get a big mess

sorry guys, I love you, but one again this is masturbation

If Akira has a good source for Asian hands specs - or tools to adapt those hands sold by Yuki with their dials - or - tools to work on the movement pinions - the Asian DG movement is a good option. Strong and accurate. ETA are crap most of the time. I am able to disassemble/re-assemble a 2824/36 type in less that one hour, I can tell these movements are crap, not better than basic Chinese stuff Even if some gurus here have criticized WoolesaleOutlet, this seller is the only one who has parts to build a 1675. Period.

Return at the beginning : stop masturbation and trying to find ways and excuses, specs of this watch are complete out, even if you modd, it looks as it is : just a fake.

I am also able to criticise and make fun of myself Dude, keep it cool, life is so good, A little retreat should be taken, don't take my comments for cash money, use your brain sorry, but I just get tired with people who get exited by a 500$ piece of metal

as usual... 500 usd for a perfect piece of [censored], or a vulgar piece of green metal... the watch world -especially the Rolex Department- is full of anals, fags, idiots, posers, and much more, and mono-culture is no good, just stay out of watches, add fantaisy in your day life, open your eyes, the world is so wide sorry,

free masons are always right, they control the planet

crown guards are vrong, case thickness also, sounds like you used a Sub or SD case...

great job, congrats cib0rgman, The 1675 is the more difficult vintage Rolex to replicate.

Sounds like you know the story of these "authorized" Daytona replicas sold in France with "Telda" written instead of Rolex and "REPLICA" written in red on the top of hours counter subdial. Do you know if this chrono module has the identical subdial spacing like the V72/727 ? I think this combo is probably the same used on the "Dodane type 21" (official french air force chrono) are you gaulois like me ?

Some of you heard about GEVRIL/USA ? and movements used for these 6263-65 Daytona replica watches ?

exactly same philosophy for me, I will stay with Josh, DW and Yuki even with this subdial spacing brain scour, I prefer the classic DW way with a working hours subdial counter. Surfing on the net with Josh for backgrounds, Yuki parts and DW, I can build cosmographs which are accurate enough for me and my buyers

I am so sorry to disturb watch specialists here, I am just a noob, only servicing and modding movements, building GMT watches and chronographs, sorry, I will stay watching tv cartoons and avoid to add comments in the future

the GMT hans track had nothing vrong with a 28.800bph, the problem is that high beat movements used for GMT reps are ETA 2836 series which are not true GMT movements. The Chinese conversion is not reliable, thats why the track is problematic. ETA has a 28.800bph true GMT movement, the 2893 series. Rep makers don't use it as it is an expensive movement. The Asian DG 3804 shown here is a true GMT 4th hand movement

At my knowledge, today the answer is no... may be you can try to contact Michael Young here http://www.classicwatchparts.com/index.php to ask him if he has a source or Also try with Yuki, if they would like to sell you these separate parts ... if their 1675 cases are built like gens... all my 1675 bezel assy were ordered from VHO990, I never experienced problems, just the time to get the parts in France (15 days)

Excuse my nob attitude, but what is a meatball seconds hand ? right, as basically the electrolyse process to fix the chrome/white gold, needs a cooper layer as base. If you polish the hand with something stronger than cap cod, you will have a yellow color. But this will fade/rust with ambiant air, need a coat of clear varnish One solution is to go in an artist shop and buy gold leaves and the liquid base to fix the gold. Tricky to realise and need good skills but the result is 100% realistic. Gold leaves are less than 5 microns thick and are "platted" using a small and very soft make up brush. Also to do that, lume material has to be removed from hands, then hand must be re-lumed.

complete agree, let me tell you : all my cosmographs are powered with the A7750 type series, this Lemania's concept with frozen hand at 6. bothers me seriously. But now, these little 0.5mm starts to bother me too... What to do ? a V72 is to much expensive and unreliable, if something collapse inside, no much more parts... I reported my frustration building 1675. But with 1655 engraved on the cases, o.k doesn't bother me seriously. But now, these 1655 engravings instead of 1675 starts to bother me too...

how much frozen hour's sub-dial pics here ? owners should put name and date on the pics

Zeleni, o.k, I try to be clear, may be my first explications were mixed... difficult on your picture to know in the arm's hierarchy who's who between 1 and 2... I made a little drawing -took 5 minutes, not a big deal- on this drawing : the arm number 2, which is attached at THE END of the spiral is the spiral's dead point. Don't touch it. It controls the spiral axis drift, the arm 1 who is attached at THE BEGINNING of the spiral allows to bend (runn faster) or release (run slower) the spiral. This arm allows to gain or loose seconds. But without a monitor screen to manage your actions, its difficult to do something precise and Justasgood don't tell me I am vrong, simplified explanations but not vrong. you need other explanations ? how to tweak and determine the dead point ?

Sorry my english is limited, The arm 1 is to set the dead point, the arm 2 is to bend or to give more flexibility to the spiral. Bend= run faster, flexible= run slower don't touch the 1, and play with the 2 moving the arm a very few. The problem, you should use a monitoring device with a screen to control the run, difficult to get good results without, as I cannot see like that which side is fast and which side is slow...

Excellentissime ! translation : Absolutly great work ! OFrei have the same new version now, the old stock is finished. I have the same movements in 2 of my 1675.

Sounds like this watch uses the old Asian 7750 modified copy with the subdial hand connected with and tracking the main hours hand. Its possible to reset to the start position at 12, but the hand will run again. Its not the little white plastic spur