Rolexaddict

interesting, I tried one from OFrei, doesn't fit at all. I noticed almost all generic Rolex plexies from OFrei are totally out of specs. Also OFrei is expensive. Good news to know those from Clark fit as I have a few on the way.

You cannot swap a 2836 balance bridge/wheel/spring in a 2846 as the low bits 2846 uses a different wheel train, the pallet has a different design, the escape wheel and the balance wheel have also both a wider diameter, But yes, as Freddy said, install the 2836 4th hand complication on a 2846 works without any problem

My contribution, and some samples

contact this guy : rolex_sg@yahoo.com, say its the French guy who gives you his contact he has a genuine Sub anchors stock, cost 19usd each (may be a little more, cannot remember) . He accept paypal and ship very fast

not only 6538 cases, A LOT of stuff from these gangsters JAW, NDT and Yuki is complete out. Its ridiculous, these guys [censored] people very deep, but sounds like on rep forums some like that and like to throw money through the window. If you calculate hassle, research, the very expensive cost of parts - they are only fake, remember - you should better consider to buy gen stuff in Europe. In USA Rolex vintage is to overpriced.

Here in Paris, Rolex France charge 400 to 600 euros for a vintage to service the movement, replace the dial for a service dial, change hands, a case polishing, change the plexi, asume waterproof and much more, but dont expect fool them with your 4000 + usd frankens, they will call police

Not to criticise, I respect, you are free to do what you want, but I cannot understand at this level of price why you don't buy a gen. I dont know if the watch is nice -no pics- but franken = fake anyway. Sorry, no offence but I get just a little nervous with this rolexmania mystic and frankens I noticed also here, lot of stuff is overpriced. Generally Rolex in USA is overpriced whithout any serious reason, like everything else indead

Folded bracelet end parts from Josh'Explo have to be enlarged to 2 - 2,1mm to accept gen springbars IMHO Many reasons. Most of the time reps drilled lug holes are not well aligned so the springbars shoulders can stray a little compressed on one side of the case. Also enlarging lug holes by drilling at 1,3mm instead of 1,2 correct this problem allowing the springbar shoulders to full extend. Often when you look on gen pictures, when you see springbar shoulder overtakes the case sides, the case is thinner due to re-polishing My personal experience: I started to cure this by buying in quantity the cheap Explorer with the asian movement. Now I have bracelets for projects and I have sold dials and cases as I don't have any interest for this watch

Sql_pl, Just flying over limited and basic brains considerations, make a scratch inside the case -or any place you don't mind- and observe if it goes yellowing, Normally, solid SS 316 reference doesn't produce what we see on your pic. And stop Cap Cod lick bottom considerations, a basic polishing paste from the nearly supermarket will do the job

If your Sub has a good quality case built from a machined solid stainless steel your should'nt have any trouble. If it is a cheap rep from a scammer website probably the case is made from pot metal or cast alloy with a coat looking lke a kind of SS. To fix this electro platting the pot metal is covered with a cooper layer. It means, in such case, putting cap cod will remove the faux SS coat and make your case turning yellow.

flyingwedge, this is really interesting, A noob question about the tube replacement : do you use a gen/aftermarket crown also ? or the rep crown fits on the gen tube ?

right. I talk to fast, there is a risk doing like I wrote with a good quality dial. I did this only with bad quality feet assembly from rep dials, they break wery easy and fast

dial feet are usually soft soldered on the dial, its easy to "break" them while moving them hold between your fingers. When removed, you can use -carefully- a dremel with a silicon polishing bit to remose the solder and get a perfect flat surface on the dial back face

I am not a Daytona guru, so may be I should better stay away from any opinion. Anyway : And ? Just another EBay/Italian kind of Rolex auction opera, Imho, if you have 50.000 us$ and you don't know waht to do with, buy a gen. If you have 300 us$ only, buy a DW. You have 600 us$ ? good ! so buy a Spinmaster. In these 3 scenarios, you will get a complete working watch. EBay Rolex auctions + Italian... this is a dangerous blend

By Tor, I know you are very intelligent and a great Rolex specialist, but just stay away from me with your stupid suppositions, first you don't know me, second you dont live in France and you don't know nothing about our way of life/culture and how Rolex watches owners are considered here Gran, Jerry is not a good exemple, USA is not France. You should read a little about jews people origin and culture, then come in Paris and walk down the streets with a bling Rolex, you will understand very fast

Vintage models like Sub/SD or GMT/Explorer etc... I am 100% O.K these watches tell a story, have spirit. Modern Rolex ? These ugly fat cases ? shinny bracelets ? Vulgar. Listen this, no offence, thats just the reality : If you come in France with a modern Rolex at your wrist, wear long sleeve shirts, don't expect people looking at you with admiration in a party, don't expect girls and success, you will just look like a has been poser, even with a simple Submariner which is the sign to reconize jews here, again no offence, just to explain that in France we don't really appreciate these tribes with guys wearing thick gold neck chains, Subs, DSSD and GMT IIC and rep blond girls (we call them Barbie doll/Christmas trees) wearing Daytonas

Marc, same for me, I have been following this thread since the start and asking myself the same questions. My theory : if the rehaut is to wide, it means -imho- the watch case was not built from scratch at Rolex case specs, but using an existing rep case and not necessary an Explorer one Makers use to do this since a long time. For exemple, look these vintage GMT using a Sub case. Also another question : the plexi and the bezel ring have the same kind of building/assembly as the gen 1655 ??????

this insert you try to fade is probably one with a clear protective coat. Nothing will be able to break this, its heat cured. To remove this coat and allow bleach to work you can use #800/1200 sandpaper, gently, and always in the same way. Then use bleach, but watch well as now it will go fast...

imho its very difficult to quite impossible to remove metal from an insert just by hand sanding. With a dremel, or similar hobbyist tool its very easy and its going very fast holding the insert with one hand and the tool with the other.

No way sanding by hand, its anodized alloy and the surface is hardened. You need to use a dremel tool And that kind of tools Protect your eyes with glasses, and be carefull if you have long hairs after a few day practice, you will be able to do this : also this : even this :

Is the background lume from PT or did you relume ? It looks good, I personally prefer more creamy "MilkyWay chocolate" but looks like lot of gens little more aged

So many options, so many ideas, each of us has his own philosophy and conception of tweak a rep. Personally, headaches and puzzles and pricy parts are not for me, Look this watch, its a gen : Look this one, its mine. Cost me 98usd + shipping. I needed one day to re-cut the crown guards, re-drill the lug holes, re-lume the dial and hands, and put some chemical on the insert. O.K may be I could invest 20 bucks in a pearl Not a pure race horse, but my philosophy is also : even with gen crowns etc. its still a rep. And if I would invest money, I would buy a gen. A gen 5512/13 in France is around 3000 euros another photo : remember, 98usd from PerfectClone and one day of fun modding it,

I had a look this morning on Eurotimez MBV-MBK section, They sell a 5513 case with a fat bezel ring like the Sea Dweller one... They sell a 1680 case with the correct Sub thin bezel ring design but with 5513 engraved between lug holes and 5512 engraved case back... This being said, the 1680 red subdial looks excellent (on the picture) stamped Singer... like the Yuki sold for twice the price... who muddles who ? On the Perfect Clones catalog they have Subs with vrong cases but with an interesting eta low beats, and new 316F stainless steel Sea Dweller with good accurate cases but with eta high beats... I just try to understand what could happen in a Chinese rep maker brain...

anal considerations.