ugoderosa

I bought the latest Cartel version. I agree with M's summary points with respect to the Cartel version. The Seagull movement is very smooth. Here are a couple pics of my cartel version for comparison:

Contact member Donerix here on RWG and he will make a custom strap for it. That way he can pick the leather, length and other specs. The quality is as good as it gets IMHO.

LHOOQ, the Skittles remark has to be the comment of the week! Too funny. Very nice collection tony.

.....oh yes, that is a good point indeed! Forgot about that. If you are going to pass it off as a gen, you should also vintagize it to some extent.

I would wear it on a daily basis, for sure, but I don't attempt to pass my reps off as gens. If I am asked, I say it is a rep. If I was trying to pull it off as a gen, I would only wear it on special occasions, as freddy said. I have the seagull version vintage Daytona and really like it. The only thing that bugs me is the placement of the subdial at 6. Otherwise, I quite like the rep. I don't care that the subdial at 6 is faux. The seagull movement is a very, very nice movement- about as nice a movement as you can get in an out of the box rep IMHO. I believe the seagull would be much more reliable than the 7750 version, even a serviced 7750. I have read many threads on this forum and others concerning the DW or Spin 7750 versions, and I get the sense that the 7750 version, although visually superior to the seagull version, is not exactly bullet-proof and requires time, patience, money and a good watchsmith. I have had bad luck with 7750 movements in some of my other reps, so I will admit to being biased against the 7750 in general. However, I would not let a 7750 keep me from buying a watch I really wanted, I would just lower my expectations in terms of reliability and the need for servicing and repairs. If you are talking about a DW or Spin 7750, you are on the right track. If you are looking at a 7750 version that is not from DW or Spin, I would not bother. So, do you want accurate looks, or better reliability? I can see arguments for both, particularly if you are using it is a daily driver, but it also depends on if you are passing it off as a gen. I would be careful about trying to pass off the seagull version as a gen, especially to a knowledgeable Rolex person as the subdial placement at 6 is a pretty obvious tell. I would personally take the seagull version if I wanted to wear it on a daily basis. If I was only wearing from time to time, I would take a Spinmaster 7750. Having said that, there are some extremely knowledgeable vintage Daytona people on this forum such as freddy, lhooq, sqpl and others that can give you better advice than me, as I only own the seagull (I did have a 7750 vintage daytona that was not from DW or Spin and sold it after it failed on me twice, even after service). Just my two cents. Cheers

This series looks good. One developing issue- faulty quick release buttons. They are falling out on some 359's, or not functioning properly. Unfortunately, there is an extremely good chance this will be the case with all these new models (359, 312, 328, etc series) from Angus. As a consolation, it seems most pam reps with the QR buttons seem to have issues with the QR buttons, not just this factory. I own or have owned 4 pam reps with the QR buttons, and all are/were terrible. One solution is to purchase the faux screw-in spring bars from Panatime. Not really that big of a deal, but something to be aware of.

Ebzen: (As a side note, the difference in font does not bug me at all) Take a look at the "P" and the "R" on the rep, now compare it to the gen. See how the looped part of the "P" and the "R" is wider on the gen, whereas the "P" and "R" on the rep is narrower? Also, look at the spacing between each individual letter in "Luminor" and "Marina".... the letters are a bit closer together on the gen, more spaced apart on the rep. Basically, the H-factory just used the same font that was used on their previous releases. But, on the positive side, the numerals on the dial appear to be spot on.

Panerai is back up on the manufacturer list on Josh's site- not hidden.

Agreed, but Jackson's does not look like the gen.

A couple of quick corrections/clarifications: I bought my mini fiddy crystal from Jackson, not Getat. It was pretty cheap (I think $15 or so) and is mineral glass without AR. When I posted about the "turbo purple AR" I was referring to the AR'ed crystals that Jackson sells, as Jackson's AR seems way too strong and looks bad to me. Again, not sure if Jackson can source a sapphire for you, but it is worth a shot.

Getat stocks crystals for minis, so send him an email and see if he can source one with AR on it for you. I purchased one from him, but I don't recall seeing any sapphire ones. Having said that, why anyone would want turbo purple AR applied to any watch is beyond me, but hey, it is her watch.

Again, the cut outs (shape of the numbers) are accurate on the rep, as there are two different gen 026 dials, each with different shaped numbers. The only issue is with the font of the dial text.

I prefer the look of dial text font on the 026 rep, to the newer style dial text font on the 026 gen, so, although not as accurate, I think the rep text is better looking. Can't wait for mine to arrive. Also, I think the numeral cut-outs are accurate to the gen 026 pics I looked at. There appear to be two different gen 026 dial versions, each with different shaped numerals: http://www.wrist-check.com/showthread.php?12158-Gen-026K-2-different-dials

These are rep watches we are talking about here boys, let's not get too carried away. The movements found in our reps are nice bang for the buck engines, but let's not get snobby or overly romantic about a movement that can be bought for $20-$120. I bought my quartz portu chrono because I like the look, and the word "quartz" on the dial does not bother me. Your mileage may vary.

Of course it does not exist, but that does not bother me. I would rather have a working, reliable Portuguese that I can wear without problems, than a more accurate 7750 broken paperweight. I never try to pass my reps off as gens anyway. Plus, .0001% of the population even know about the IWC brand, and .000000000000001% of the population knows that the Portuguese is supposed to have an automatic movement. But, I realize many rep buyers have an aversion to quartz.

In my opinion, there are only two options on the Portuguese Chrono. The best option is to buy one from Concepta, but those are really expensive. The other option is quartz. All others are likely too risky and a possible waste of money when the movement stops working. The quartz versions are bullet-proof. I went with a quartz model as I am not yet ready to spend the big bucks on a Concepta. All chrono functions work on the quartz version. Actually, quartz is by far the most reliable movement of any movement available in rep watches.

Yuki's looks the same as Joshs' watch, so I think I will buy it from Josh since he is so much cheaper and I have bought from Josh many times.

Josh has it (Perfect Clones)

The white cobra is overpowering. The watch gets lost in all the shine and detail of the white cobra strap.

Actually, I think this upcoming 312 will be the 4th version of this series. The first version, sold by Robert, erroneously had a "3" on the dial (it had a date window next to the "3" as well). The 2nd version, which I bought, deleted the "3". Here is a photo of my watch (I returned this watch to the dealer as it had a bad movement and I thought it was a bad rep, poor quality overall): The 3rd version, which I bought and recently sold, improved the dial, case and movement, but still had obvious cosmetic issues, such as the date window, but it was a BIG improvement over version 1 and version 2:

There is a thread on this over on RG. One fix is to take plyers and lightly pinch the crown tube. Many have tried this and it works. This is better than buying a replacement tube, as it is likely to happen again. Here is the link (see post #40): http://www.repgeek.com/showthread.php?t=69941&page=3&highlight=warning+big+pilot

it is a soundtrack from a 1990's softcore porn movie

Keep trying. It took me a while to get the knack of it. I turn the crown slowly, about 1/4 of a turn while pushing to the case. And again, try turning both ways. I hope this helps. 3 of my pams have this same annoying problem, but once you get a feel for it, it is not that bad to deal with. Good luck

I have several 6497 pams and some have the same issue you are describing (although my 177 does not have this problem). Some of the more senior pam people on this forum may have better solutions, but what I do is turn the crown slightly while pressing the crown into the case. It usually takes several tries, but eventually it will click back into the winding mode. It helps to do this action very slowly. If it does not work after a few tries, try turning the crown slowly in the other direction while slowly pushing the crown to the case. The key on my 6497's with this issue is to do it slowly.

I like the creativity. Play by your own rules. For me personally, I think a shape other than a circle for the peak-a-boo portion might work better (lines, or a rectangle, multiple rectangles?), but, different strokes for different folks. Keep up the good work!