freddy333

Yes, you will likely have to 'roll' your own hour hand (out of 2 normal sized hands) since I have not seen any aftermarket hands of the appropriate length. Though you might check with MY & Ming to see if they can have 1 made for you.

That was kind of what I was wonderiing, too.

In that case, (assuming an unmodified 727 in the case & the bracelet is a solid link 78350) I would estimate that you have about $5,500 worth of gen parts. If the bracelet is an earlier 7205 rivet with 71 ends or a 7835 folded link w/x71 ends, then you can add at least a couple grand to that figure, since those bracelets are both rare & highly sought after.

There were 3 threads all started by you & with the exact same title. I deleted the other 2, which is why you can no longer see them. You will find Andrew (TrustyTime), Josh (Joshua) & other selers listed in the appropriate Watches, Clothing & Accessories section.

Actually, it does because, typically, crowns get replaced during normal service. So it is quite expected to see a brand new 704 on a freshly serviced vintage sports watch. The opposite - having an old, beat up crown on an otherwise, pristine watch - makes 1 wonder.

Nice, but where have I seen a bezel insert like that before?

You said the whole watch is genuine except for the hands (& Phong case). So the movement is gen also?

A truly accurate (preferably, non-Oyster) 62xx Daytona dial would be a breakthrough. However, the keys for a proper Daytona dial are - 1. good, thick paint. Ming seems to be heading in the right direction here, but his dials have other issues. 2. properly deep-set subdials (&, as a bonus, the chapter ring area) 3. correct fonts, especially the 3 in the minute totalizer. None of those western (cowboy) style overly serifated fonts, which are a dead give-away 4. correctly shaped coronet As others have suggested, an accurate double red 1665 would also be nice. But the aftermarketeers have been getting very good on just about everything, but the Daytonas. Produce a proper Daytona & you will be legend. Also, I have never seen a nice gold Daytona dial.

Wearing my pre-Comex today

Ditto most of Tomhorn's comments. In general, buying a (flashed) yellow gold replica watch with 'jewels' is a iffy proposition, at best. Considering the current price of gold, logic dictates that the amount/quality of gold flashed onto a steel substrate is not going to be very much. Therefore, unless it spends most of its life sitting in a velour-lined watch case, the lifespan of a 'gold' replica is very limited. Once the yellow gold flashing rubs/wears/scratches off, you either have to toss the watch or walk around advertising the fact that you are another poser with a (LOUD) fake Rolex. But if you have your heart set on bling, try Andrew or Josh, who provide good customer service & can usually source whatever is available. But, before you do anything, I would encourage you to read the Forum Rules & Toad's Guide to buying reps., both of which will help you to avoid newb no-nos (like posting the same question multiple times) & awkward questions (like what is the best......).

I do not usually disagree with Stephane, but, in this case, I have to. The crown looks too worn for that watch. I would either beat up the rest of the case to match the condition of the crown, or, better yet, keep an eye peeled for a gently worn crown.

Because a proper, well designed winder (set correctly for your movements) mimics normal wrist movement, it should not put any more wear on a properly maintained watch than the watch would receive from daily use. However, if the movement has not been maintained (properly overhauled at least once every 5 or so years), then I would recommend against using a winder. For whatever it is worth, the only watches that really ought to be kept on winders are those with non-quick set dates that take so long to set that, were it not for the winder keeping them charged, they may not get worn because they are a pain to set. As far as 7750s go, the few times I have placed my secs @ 6 Daytonas on winders (my winders are all bidirectional), even set for 1000TPD, the winders have failed to keep the mainsprings fully charged. Everything else does very well on winders at their recommended TPD settings

Panerai

Was the watch dropped or banged just before it began running fast? Most likely, the hairspring spirals are either hung-up on an adjacent wheel or sticking together. Or, it may simply be magnetized. Remove the caseback (or have a watchmaker remove it) & inspect the hairspring with a loupe or magnifying glass.

Beautiful Doxas, guys. Especially, the Black Lung. Ending the work week wearing my beater

The threading (on most modern stems) is somewhat standardized, so crowns are interchangeable. The business end of stems - the part that fits into the movement - varies, which is why you need to match the stem to the movement, not the crown. You can use a pin vice (available from all watch parts houses) to hold the stem when changing crowns. With the stem held in the pin vice, simply unscrew the crown with your fingers & screw the new crown on (do not use tools to tighten the crown or you will strip the threads). You need to tighten just enough to keep the crown from unscrewing during use, but not so tight that you strip the threads. This is 1 of those things that takes experience & practice. I am pretty sure these things have been covered in 1 or more pinned articles in the Watchmaking forum. But, if not, this info has been posted a number of times over the years to a number of threads that you should be able to find via the search.

Due to the variability & lack of manufacturing QC on rep watches/cases, it is impossible to predict what you will need to do to fit a gen crown or tube to a given rep case. However, with a bit of work, they can usually be made to fit. Similarly, it is impossible to predict whether a gen crown will fit your aftermarket tube. It is always best to replace with gen parts whenever possible. To be safe, get a tap. To remove the old tube, insert a small, 3-sided hobby file (most hardware & hobby stores sell them) into the tube & wedge it inside so you can unscrew the tube by turning the file. Once the tube is removed, apply a bit of oil into the existing hole & slowly screw the tap in. Go in a bit, then unscrew the tap a bit to allow the bits of metal to be expelled. Repeat until the tap is all the way through. You now have a fresh set of threads the correct size to fit a genuine tube. There are tutorials in the Watchmaking forum, but, basically, you can either use the same file again to install the tube or use the proper Rolex tool (the inside of the new tube will have splines that interlock with the Rolex tool, which makes installation very easy). (click pic for link) Whichever way you go, apply a bit of semi-permanent Loctite to the threads of the tube & then screw it in gently. It is difficult to explain how tight to make the tube (this is 1 of those things that require some experience), but screw the tube in until it seats. Then just snug it up using finger pressure. You are not torquing the thing down! Just snug. Then you can insert the stem into the movement & screw the (gen) crown onto the tube (again, just snug, not tight).

That is the correct caliber for the watch, but be prepared to have it professionally overhauled upon receipt. As is the case with most aftermarket parts sellers, I have seen some really ratty stuff going on inside movements that were supposedly 'professionally' serviced by these guys or their 'watchmakers'. I cannot wait to see the finished project. In fact, I am so inspired that I am taking off my Newman & putting on my Bond Sub. Good luck.

Bergeon 5680 Luminous paste. You mix with a bit of water (& paint, if you want to simulate patina) &, when dry, it looks similar to tritium with a soft glow that quickly fades within a minute or so. Alternatively, a mixture of (non luminescent) paint & your choice of granular material, which is what I prefer, can, if done well, yield very accurate-looking 40+ year-old tritium. Art/artist supply shops sell everything you need.

I love the 6200's simplicity--with or without 'SUBMARINER' on the dial. Which movement are you using?

Some nice metal today, gents.

Still wearing my