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freddy333

Diamond Member
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Everything posted by freddy333

  1. You can always phone some local watchsmiths to see if they would be willing to put it together for you.
  2. I would never buy a Rolex without good, clear pics (including at least 1 movement pic). Also, for me to seriously consider something like this, seller must have at least 200 previous Rolex-related sales with no less than 99% seller rating (100% for Asian & Italian sellers).
  3. I would never assume anything with these things. Although they do not list it on their website, they do sell the dial separatly. You need to email them & specifically ask about it.
  4. You might try NDT. Although not listed separately, they told me the dial is available, but it is expensive (because of 'special paint').
  5. Not sure if it would fit your case, but you might try MY's bezel. For my Phase I franken, I ended up using the bezel that came with the Silix watch (I tried so many bezels & inserts back then & cannot remember where this particular insert came from now), which is very close (closer than MY's) to the gen part. This is the Silix bezel (with MY's insert) on my Phase I watch
  6. The other day, I heard from a reliable source that Rolex still had them available as late as 1970 or thereabouts.
  7. JoeyB brings up a salient point. Whichever way you go, be sure to cop 1 of JoeyB's inserts. They are heads & shoulders better than anything else out there (other than a 40 year-old NOS gen).
  8. No PanAm engraving on the caseback, but there are a number of threads detailing the trials & tribulations of my gen Aryan 'Master project (Earlier, Phase 1 black face franken on left)
  9. I am not intimately familiar with U-boats, but try Andrew &/or Joshua. They can often source something (assuming it is available) even if they do not list it. Welcome aboard & friends/family thinking you are crazy is not something that wears off over time.
  10. No. 1530, 1560 or 1570 only (& 1520 or 1530 in the 5513). The '5' denotes a date complication, which none of these (non-date) watches would need. The watch is somewhat unusual for having dash marks on either side of '- SWISS -'
  11. That appears to be correct. Here is the result of a whois on wm9.com - --- performing WHOIS on "wm9.com", please wait... --- contacting server whois.networksolutions.com No match for "WM9.COM".
  12. A-OK. If you do not want the bracelet, you are welcome to send it to me (or contact MY to see about having it restored).
  13. freddy333

    6538

    Although both have issues, the 2nd dial (in the post above) is more accurate overall. The most obvious problem is the off-center = sign, which is a dead-giveaway on a Roiex.
  14. Considering the seller's history (nearly non existent) & the fact that the numbering has been 'worn' off (actually, chopped-off is a more accurate description) between both sets of lugs, I would look elsewhere or bid assuming this is an aftermarket case from an unknown source.
  15. Other than its parts value (for the movement, assuming it is all correct), there is no real long-term value in these since they were not made by Patek, are not a design that Patek would ever consider & would never be authenticated by a Patek representative or collector. I hate to seem harsh, but these are monstrosities, nothing more. Patek made its name by producing finely-crafted works of horological art for men with style, not fads for the fashionable (the era of watches that can be seen from space ended some time ago, so it is difficult to even call them fashionable anymore). Please do not waste your money on 1 of these. If you want a Patek, get a Patek. If the price is too steep, buy used or get a nice (simple) Patek rep. Or, if you must have a gargantuan watch, get 1 from a watch company that makes gargantuan watches.
  16. Lo' - Beautiful Zenith.
  17. We have all been there (& wanted to do that).
  18. Here is a gen for comparison (note the crown)
  19. I hate to be the 1 to break the bad news, but that is not genuine. Sorry.
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