freddy333

Since I was very young, I have always associated Rolex watches with Mercedes-Benz cars since both companies have been around for about 100 years, have either invented or are credited with many important advances for their respective product, offer a wide variety of luxury models at prices that range from just within reach to excessive (yet neither is considered to be the ne plus ultra within their respective market) & are universally recognized around the globe. Let's see your favorite watch posed next to a well-known corporate symbol

If you source the parts (assuming they actually fit your V72 (the parts I got from Phong did not fit mine)), Ziggy can probably do it for you.

I do not own a 2 nor have I ever attempted to fit any vintage Rolex parts to any modern Rolex watches, so take this with a huge grain of salt...........but my hunch is that it should fit, maybe not perfectly, but more or less. I believe the new case is .5mm thicker (taller) than the standard DJ, so the end links may need to be widened a bit, but I am pretty sure both cases have 20mm lug widths.

Wearing my beater on Xmas day

I have never researched parts for a 6538, but if Clarks does not have an aftermarket version, I would just peruse ebay, TZ & VRF until you find 1. I see them coming up for sale on a fairly regular basis, so you just have to be patient/persistent.

Ditto.

M&W are brilliant. 1 of their best bits was when the Beatles appeared and sang 'Moonlight Bay'

Wearing my Daytona beater today (the day before)

Questionable GMT hand (Please post comments in TZ thread)

Modern Subs are not my thing, but, for the money, it looks pretty good to me. Here is a gen for comparison

Repainted dial, but a pretty watch. You might post smaller pics in future (1024 x 768 or thereabouts is the sweet spot for most).

For a 551x/1680/1665, click here (fits a gen or gen-sized bezel). For sapphire crystal Subs, go fish. The link above is for an insert only (not bezel).

Ditto KB. Sandpaper is the way to go. Either hold the hand between your (gloved/finger cotted) thumb & finger or use a hand broaching holder (I find fingers work best)

Consider yourself lucky. Mr. Slimeball, as he is affectionately known around these parts, is a serial lier/rip-off artist, bordering on criminal. You will find plenty of info on him via the Search.

I cannot see how you would get into any legal hassles unless you decide to sue him to court to get your possessions back. Just go to his house & pick up your stuff. If he refuses to give it to you, then walk away & chalk it up to a learning experience. Not much else you can do without involving the law. And for reference, my bank has (twice) acted on my behalf in getting my money back from rogue rep sellers. So, while reps are technically considered to be illegal contraband in most places, you are generally not stuck in no-man's land (without legal recourse) if you get ripped-off.

I would visit him in person &, if he is out, leave a stern, but polite, note in his mailbox with your telephone, cell & email contact info requesting that he contact you within 48 hours or you will need to seek assistance from law enforcement. (Make a copy of the note in case you need to take the additional steps below.) Yes, rep watches are technically contraband & frowned-upon legally, but I believe outright theft trumps contraband. Additionally, if you paid him any money (deposit, downpayment, etc) with a major credit card, contact your bank & ask them for assistance. If the guy is in business, he does not want to jeopardize/lose his vendor status with the credit card company. If, after 72 hours (yes, give him 1 additional day to respond in case he is sick or out of town since it is that time of year), you do not receive a response, I would either send him a copy of the note you left previously in his mailbox via registered mail (so he has to sign for it, which will make it clear that you mean business) & wait an additional 24 hours for a response or take all the paperwork you received to your local police & let them do their thing.

Yes. That 'little colour' on the dial turns an early Sub into a very rare collectible. If that 6536/1 is all gen (hard to tell from the pics & the seller's 98.2% score does not help matters), then someone got 1 hell of a deal. That watch (without the red lettered dial) is worth at least $25k-$40k, easy.

Still wearing my 5514 today

Ditto.

Pull up a seat & grab your popcorn, kids. There is another Bond Sub (this time, a red 6536) for sale on ebay from a seller without a history. Bidding is currently at $43k with 18 hours to go & (based on admittedly crappy pics) it looks legit. This should be good (Click the pic for the link)

Like they say, measure twice, cut once. Wise words.

Ah, the old spit-&-shine. But try Meguiar's. It produces more clarity/sparkle than A&H or any toothpaste or CD/DVD cleaners I have tried.

When the wear begins to inhibit your ability to clearly see the dial, I would either have it polished or replaced (with either a gen T39 or, better yet, Clark's, which, being newly manufactured, should guarantee stability & water-tightness). To polish - start with a fine grade of wet sandpaper (wetting the crystal before sanding). Once the deepest scoring has been removed, use any commercially available plastic polish & a soft terry cloth cloth or Viva paper towel to return it to crystal clarity. The whole operation should take no more than about 20 minutes. I always have great results using Meguiar's Scratch X 2.0 Fine Scratch & Blemish Remover, finishing with Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (available at many automotive parts stores or online from meguiars.com)

Crowns are generally measured by their outer edges (black lines).

Good point. Best not to ingest your watch until it has been fully tested by an approved government lab.