freddy333

When I started collecting (mid-1980s), you could walk into an AD & buy Rolex parts over-the-counter. No trade-ins required. I even used to order parts from Geneva & pick them up a month or so later from the AD. Then, about 10 years later, Rolex clamped down on the practice. I believe this is limited to the US as many ADs in the UK still sell parts (though, they do require that you trade-in the old part to receive the new 1).

To the best of my knowledge, there has never been either an official pronouncement from Rolex or evidence from a knowledgeable/reliable source that they purposely stockpile vintage parts. That said, for years I have heard that, like most companies that cater to the upper classes (who expect special treatment), they do provide NOS parts for a small number of special clients whose watches are in-house for service. These are likely parts stocked & installed only within the confines of Rolex SA (Geneva) & only with the consent (& at the direction) of the company's principals.

Not sure. Both look a bit suspect to me Here is my gen (from an unassailable source). Note the position of the end link stamp & shape of coronet

Holy Smokes! Not sure about the end links & clasp on the gen either (should have channels on the clasp closer & the 380 on the end links is stamped in an odd location), but anyone have a link (for the fake) yet?

Ubi's watch is definitely 1030-powered. I would still love to hear more about the construction (Ubi).

Looks ok, but hard to tell from that angle. Can you get a pic of the crown head-on or like this

kramerica2 - you might want to read this about overhauls.

Depending on the watch, you may want to have the 2846 repaired instead of replacing it with a more modern movement. Or, at least, in the case of something vintage, the 'slow beat' 2846 ticks at a speed that is closer to many gens from 25+ years ago. Or, you might want to find another 2846 instead of a modern replacement. Keep in mind, also, that unless you implant a new/freshly serviced movement, you may end up causing yourself more headaches. Mechanical watch movements generally require routine (every 5-7 years) overhauling (disassemble, clean, oil, adjust) & most rep watches come from the factory with used &/or unserviced movements. So your next movement may just be another ticking time-bomb in need of its routine overhaul.

Wearing my 'Graph today

Were it mine (& I did not have the proper tools along with experience uncasing & crystal pressing) I would leave well enough alone. No one can see that .5mm difference other than you & I think you are likely to make things worse by messing with it. If it really bothers you, find a rep-friendly watchmaker to see if he can r&r the crystal for you.

The stuff of nightmares.

Whoa!!!!!! Now that is headline material. The Spaceview is the only gen that has been on my list since I got into watches, but for various reasons has evaded capture. 1 day........ Today, my beater

The 1665 looks aftermarket, but impossible to tell based on such (purposely) crummy pics. Ask seller for good, clear macros (without glare, shadows, blur) of the movement, dial & caseback. Post them here (if you get them) & we can provide more specific answers. As for the 1675, I would not buy watch parts from a seller with less than 200 previous high-end watch-related auctions & at least a 99.5% rating. Always, buy (investigate) the seller before you buy the.....

A nice step in the right direction. Are you planning to upgrade the dial?

Winding day for this, so I thought I would strap it on I may switch over to this for dinner

Congratulations on the new purchase. If the rep makers would correct the steel surrounds around the pearl & index markers (too wide on the reps), that would take the rep a long way towards improvement. As with the GMTIIC, the missing AR below the cyclops only becomes visible under certain lighting conditions & no one other than neurotic collectors are even aware of it. Not even the staff that sell these things in ADs know about it.

The 1 thing that lends the $400k watch a good deal of credulity (though, due to that funky 3, I remain unconvinced) is that it has the correct (1st gen) version of screw-down pushers. Look closely at the flat knurling on the pushers, which compares perfectly with other 1st gen 6263s to which Mazzariol's watch also matches exactly.

7750 & 1 of DW's better dials. Only the Newman is Valjoux-powered.

Jag's V12 engine is 1 of the most brilliant devices mankind has ever devised. That said, I think the 6 works better in the E. The shorter body & more evenly balanced weight distribution work better. I miss the V12, but I pine for my 6.

I hope you guys know what you are in for by handing the keys to the store to the likes of me. It's going to be wine, women & song from here on out.

A D is certainly worth more, but I prefer the E (I have owned a '61 & a '74 V12 &, regardless of their variable values, they are brilliant cars that will never be worth-less ).

I think the difference in boldness/size between 100 & 110 is due to the angle & shading over that area of the bezel. But, either way, the bezel is back with Yuki.

Eurotimez used to sell MBW parts on occasion. But, of course, he is no longer a reliable source.