freddy333

Were it mine (& I did not have the proper tools along with experience uncasing & crystal pressing) I would leave well enough alone. No one can see that .5mm difference other than you & I think you are likely to make things worse by messing with it. If it really bothers you, find a rep-friendly watchmaker to see if he can r&r the crystal for you.

The stuff of nightmares.

Whoa!!!!!! Now that is headline material. The Spaceview is the only gen that has been on my list since I got into watches, but for various reasons has evaded capture. 1 day........ Today, my beater

The 1665 looks aftermarket, but impossible to tell based on such (purposely) crummy pics. Ask seller for good, clear macros (without glare, shadows, blur) of the movement, dial & caseback. Post them here (if you get them) & we can provide more specific answers. As for the 1675, I would not buy watch parts from a seller with less than 200 previous high-end watch-related auctions & at least a 99.5% rating. Always, buy (investigate) the seller before you buy the.....

A nice step in the right direction. Are you planning to upgrade the dial?

Winding day for this, so I thought I would strap it on I may switch over to this for dinner

Congratulations on the new purchase. If the rep makers would correct the steel surrounds around the pearl & index markers (too wide on the reps), that would take the rep a long way towards improvement. As with the GMTIIC, the missing AR below the cyclops only becomes visible under certain lighting conditions & no one other than neurotic collectors are even aware of it. Not even the staff that sell these things in ADs know about it.

The 1 thing that lends the $400k watch a good deal of credulity (though, due to that funky 3, I remain unconvinced) is that it has the correct (1st gen) version of screw-down pushers. Look closely at the flat knurling on the pushers, which compares perfectly with other 1st gen 6263s to which Mazzariol's watch also matches exactly.

7750 & 1 of DW's better dials. Only the Newman is Valjoux-powered.

Jag's V12 engine is 1 of the most brilliant devices mankind has ever devised. That said, I think the 6 works better in the E. The shorter body & more evenly balanced weight distribution work better. I miss the V12, but I pine for my 6.

I hope you guys know what you are in for by handing the keys to the store to the likes of me. It's going to be wine, women & song from here on out.

A D is certainly worth more, but I prefer the E (I have owned a '61 & a '74 V12 &, regardless of their variable values, they are brilliant cars that will never be worth-less ).

I think the difference in boldness/size between 100 & 110 is due to the angle & shading over that area of the bezel. But, either way, the bezel is back with Yuki.

Eurotimez used to sell MBW parts on occasion. But, of course, he is no longer a reliable source.

That is the real selling point for this watch & I have never seen another dial like it. Notice that the long-tail 3 in the minutes totalizer (top right subdial) is missing its 'tail'. The crystal is scratched above it, so it could be a refraction issue, but I have my doubts. Yea, but an E-Type is still an E-Type.

It is difficult to explain, but, basically, you hold the spring still with a sharpened toothpick or similar tool while pressing it into place & then rotating it into place with a dry oiler or similar tool. It definitely takes some practice & you will likely see 1 or 2 springs fly off into outer space along the way (fortunately, I have always been able to locate them).

I am sure it was your personality.

Congratulations. Keep your timepiece small, understated & beneath your cuff. The day is all about the bride, not your watch.

I cannot translate these pages, but I am sure the basic theme of the article is the usual warning to gen buyers that reps are getting better making it easier for buyers to get taken.

The average Rolex owner knows NOTHING. This is especially true of the typical owner of a modern Rolex watch. Even though I have been collecting watches for more than a quarter of a century, it is only in the last 4-5 or so years (years after I joined TZ) that I feel I have sufficient knowledge to tell most gens from their rep/franken counterparts out in the wild. We, here & on a handful of collector websites, see things that almost no average owner is even aware of. Heck, most Rolex watchmakers are not even aware of the AR below the cyclops on some of the recent sports models!

Ditto that. The only good tells (from that distance) is the spacing of 110 (too wide & it is aftermarket) & the spacing of the individual letters in UNITS PER HOUR. Also, another way to ID gen bezels is by their flat-top 4s, which appear on all but the last run (or service replacement) of bezels. I have not come across any plastic aftermarket bezels that have both correctly spaced 110s & flat-top 4s like these gens (if you locate such an aftermarket plastic bezel, please post the link here)

I think it needs saying that Yuki accepted the bezel back (I did pay return shipping costs) & provided a full refund without any problem. He is also trying to source more of the correct bezels (the bezel pictured on his website). The factory obviously changed the design without alerting sellers.

You will need to remove/measure 1 of the remaining screws, but most of the watch parts houses (Ofrei, Cousinsuk, etc) sell bracelet screws. You may need to purchase a package of various sizes to find the correct pair, but they are not very expensive. Another, possibly simpler option, is to take the bracelet to a watchmaker. Most watchmakers have these things lying around & may give them to you for free or for a very small amount.