freddy333

For the past few years, I buy to keep.

The bezel angle/height is an issue, but I think the most obvious flaw (assuming you have 1 of the older low-profile mid-case Daytonas) is the height of the caseback, which is taller than the gen to allow the additional space required by the 7750 (the gen 4130 is a shallower movement, so the caseback is nearly flat). The difference in casebacks is similar to the difference between DW's V72 caseback & his 7750 caseback - the shallower V72 is shaped similar to the modern gen Daytona casebacks. The bezel angle/height is an issue, but I think the most obvious flaw (assuming you have 1 of the older low-profile mid-case Daytonas) is the height of the caseback, which is taller than the gen to allow the additional space required by the 7750 (the gen 4130 is a shallower movement, so the caseback is nearly flat). The difference in casebacks is similar to the difference between DW's V72 caseback & his 7750 caseback - the shallower V72 is shaped similar to the modern gen Daytona casebacks. If it were not for the fact that the modern Daytona case is wider than the vintage cases, I would remove the rotor on my 7750 & fit 1 of DW's V72 casebacks on my 116520. And if anyone knows of a source for the correct (shallow) caseback for a modern Daytona, please let me know.

Nanuq - The refinisher is the 1 we discussed to handle your GMT dial awhile back. You have to be very detailed in your request (including good, clear macros of what you want the end result to be) & patient in awaiting the final result (this datewheel had to be re-done 3 times to get to this point), but these guys can produce very good work.

I am thinking $300, $35 & $50.

Printing a vintage Rolex datewheel accurately is apparently not an easy task. I had a professional dial refinisher (which uses the original Rolex stampers & supplies refinishing work for Rolex) re-do 1 of my (corroded) gen 1035 datewheels. While the result exceeds the quality of any aftermarket datewheel I have encountered, even pros with oem tools cannot get all the details right. The blue lines illustrate a slight deviation of some dates from their proper position on the wheel, which leaves them too low/high in the date window. You can also see that the small serifs, apparent in the untouched wheel at right (from my albino '42), are missing from the refinished wheel at left

As of November 2010, I understand that the original test watch is still running fine.

By-Tor's explanation is spot-on. Rep collectors (us) are a very small part of the overall rep business & watches powered by the problematic secs @ 6 Asian 7750 sell very well internationally. So there is little impetus for the factories to expend the time/money required to properly address its inherent design problems. But for those who are adamant on having an accurate/reliable modern Daytona, read this (you may need to research the current website locations as they have changed since this article was posted) & this.

Clarks

In 1967, when the original 1665 was issued, Rolex was fitting brushed steel datewheels with flat-top 3s & open 6s & 9s. These 'silver' datewheels continued until the end of the 60s (though I understand that some remaining stock continued to get fitted into watches until about 1972 or so). In the early 70s, the brushed steel datewheels were replaced with white painted datewheels, but the fonts remained the same. Then, sometime in the mid-to-late 70s, the flat-top 3 was replaced by rounded 3s & I believe the 6s & 9s closed a few years later.

The issue has been under discussion for some time (along with some other interesting ideas) & there may be more to report in the near future.

By-Tor - I have suggested this previously, but I really think we should formally invite DW to become affiliated with RWG in a more direct form. I would rather not go into too many details publicly, but if you are interested, PM me.

Great work. Were it mine, I would perform a bit of enhanced patination on the hands & case so they do not look brand spanking new.

Please do not re-quote an entire post (including pics) just to add a short bit at the end.

If you are accustomed to wearing big watches, I can see how downsizing to a vintage classic might take some getting used to. But I think that if you have the confidence to set your own style, you can make any (gentleman's) watch look good (even if it happens to be the current fashion).

For anyone interested in the GMT (especially the modern versions), you should begin at By-Tor's reviews. These are must-reads with tons of detailed information on the model & the spark that ultimately instigated my '42 projects.

Flat. Rolex has neither made nor installed a superdome for the past 20 or so years (for the reasons stated above).

Currently, en route. Review to follow.

Gen new/used pushers are fine, but you will likely pay more for either than you will for a new set of Ofreis. In the case of screw-style pushers, Rolex used at least 3 different styles & Ofrei only sells the last/current variant (which is all Rolex offers currently). So if you want 1 of the earlier versions, used gens are probably the only option since I have never seen aftermarkets available. You can probably locate pics of each style via google. In any case, I would nix the DWs for either gens (new or used) or the Ofreis. The only potential problem you could run into is if the holes in the case were cut too large, as was the case on 1 of my DWs (DW did replace the case without any problem). But, then, in that case, even the original DWs were loose.

Diesel - I think you may be the tester for these ends. I have no idea what they were meant for, but my guess is they will fit, more or less.

There are a couple of threads comparing Clarks & gen superdomes & the differences, while real, are minute, at best. Add the fact that the last of the gen T39s were made more than 20 years ago, which means your beautiful dome may not be as reliable as it once was (this is why Rolex no longer offers them during service). Clarks, being a new part, gives you most of the benefits of the gen with none of its shortcomings. I think it is safe to say that I am willing to spare no expense when it comes to building gens & frankens, but this is 1 case where I think (Clark's) aftermarket is the better choice.

To my way of thinking, only diving watches look correct with faded bezels. GMTs & others just look weird.

Nothing until/unless you try to install a gen insert. Options are to mod & cement or swap the bezel for a gen (which fits the old (4+ years) MBW perfectly Click me for an Hev tutorial

Starting the work week off wearing my albino '42 on a red letter day

I have never used Cousin's, but Ofrei's are the same components that Rolex supplies (without the branding on the package).