freddy333

More than anything else, I have learned alot from the masters here.

Probably 28.8kbps. However, under normal circumstances, I am not generally that close to a watch, so I would still not put any money on my best guess as to what that movement's beat rate is & it would not surprise me at all to find that its beat rate is lower. I guess others' perception of beat is more attuned than mine is.

Start here & then use the search tool to search for threads on '6542' by me for additional info (there is plenty).

And they are relatively cheap, which is the prime motivator for rep makers (profit margins). Also, I think your comment that a 28.8kbps movement is 'a sure way to spot a rep of a vintage Sub' is just wrong. 1st, only a serious collector (& certainly not the average Rolex owner) would know the difference & only a serious collector who is able to view your watch up-close would be able to detect the difference. In my experience, the likelihood of having either happen, under normal circumstances, is close to nil (0). It is really mostly just to sate our own neurotic selves that we worry about these things.

Without knowing her tastes in jewelry, I think the Chanel is the best/safest bet. Most women love them. Otherwise, a nice, understated ladies Rolex Datejust with stick markers should bring a smile to her face.

(Yes, the seconds hand is missing some tritium)

So far, so Have you chosen a power supply yet?

If the clasp does not provide sufficient adjustment (you should always try the clasp 1st since it is made to be adjusted), you have 2 options - take the bracelet to a Rolex watchmaker who has the tools, parts & experience to do the job correctly, or unbend the underside leaves of 2 links, remove/add links as necessary, & rebend the 2 original links back. Rolex used to have a special tool to perform this operation, but very few watchmakers still have them. In many cases, you can achieve more or less 'acceptable' results with a flat blade/screwdriver, but the work also tends to leave the exterior of the bended links warped/crumpled. I have attempted this twice & the links' external surfaces were left in a less than perfect state in both instances.

Retail for the 78360 was $475 as of 2009 (the latest price book I have).

Same again. I could get used to this (Yes, the seconds hand is missing some tritium)

Starting the work week off wearing my white '42 (again) (Yes, the seconds hand is missing some tritium)

All unserviced mechanical movements are prone to premature demise, which is why you should always have your new rep serviced upon receipt (reps generally contain used/unserviced movements). However, only the secs @ 6 7750 is prone to an early death due to its inherent design shortcomings. Search out Ziggy's reviews on the secs @ 6 7750 for details. All unserviced mechanical movements are prone to premature demise, which is why you should always have your new rep serviced upon receipt (reps generally contain used/unserviced movements). However, only the secs @ 6 7750 is prone to an early death due to its inherent design shortcomings. Search out Ziggy's reviews on the secs @ 6 7750 for details.

Definitely, a beauty. Why are you parting with it?

And a few odds & ends

Like rek001, I got my MBW DRSD from you (although just about everything except the middle case has been replaced with genuine Rolex parts) Welcome back, George.

Other than the 8mm Brevet aftermarket that Yuki (& others) sells, I have not seen any credible 6mm Brevets (or standard Twinlocks) for sale anywhere. $300, for a crown in good shape, is about right & I expect this to double within a year. So if you need it now, I would bite the bullet. (Yes, the seconds hand is missing some tritium)

Caught on the street, Saturday night, wearing this

Extend the bit only slightly beyond the end of the chuck to allow for the total depth you will be drilling. This will reduce the likelihood of the bit bending/breaking or sliding across the surface & scratching it.

Yes, welcome back, Pho. I am glad to hear the serious stuff is now behind you now.

You can use a hand drill, some cobalt bits & a Sears drill press stand as described here. I am not in a position to provide this service for members, but it is relatively easy to do once you have this setup.

The crown with space between the coronet & dots is the current Triplock (703 & 704, which look similar from the outside). The version without the space is the previous version (702). Rolex installs the 703/704 currently on most sport models during servicing, however, vintage sport models since approximately the 80s would have come with a 702 (earlier sports models would have been fit with a 700, which is actually a Twinlock & lacks the dots altogether). This is a very complicated subject (with many exceptions to the rules) that could fill a book (if Rolex were willing to provide guidance, which they will never do).

Ending the week wearing my 1 of my '42s

That figures.

I was about to say the bracelet looks good, but then I noticed the size/shape of the links, which are wrong (too short/thick) The case is also too thick &, as was suggested above, most of the rest of the watch would need serious work. I suppose that if the dial would fit, you could transplant the dial/2846 into the Silix case I used for my Phase 1 '42 & that would produce a more credible watch than this for not that much more cash.