freddy333

Beater today

Wearing this guy today (the 1 without the legs)

You will need to research the current urls yourself (some have changed since the article was written), but read this.

Fake, fake, fake.

Not to take anything away from its overall beauty, but I do not think your dial is 1 of the infamous 'Texas' Newmans. It looks like the 2-color version of the dial I have in my 6239 (notable due to the slightly too small subdials & slightly too wide spacing between subdials & minute track), which gets most of the details correct (especially, the 'long-tail' 3 in the minute totalizer) with the exception of the subdial dimensions (slightly too small) Compare with a gen dial (note relatively tiny space between outer edge of subdials & minute track) The 'Texas' dials have correct subdial dimensions/spacing & are extremely difficult to (positively) ID as non-gen.

All things considered, I would have gone with a gen movement, but (assuming the dial/hands/datewheel fit the movement) what you have looks good so far.

How do you like the GF2 so far? I have been looking at that as well.

Not sure about the bracelet clasp (are you sure it is gen) or the size of the lug holes (may be a bit too large), but other than that it looks great. All you need now is a freshly serviced 1575 & working Hev (yes, it never ends).

Wore my '42 today, but will probably wear the '39 to dinner

Wearing my Aryan 'Master today posing next to a pair of his crown guards

Looks like the internal pin/screw may be loose.

3 possibilities - either the keyless works is malfunctioning, the auto-wind module is jammed or otherwise improperly installed onto the main-plate, or the 1st wheel/barrel is jammed. If you are comfortable uncasing the movement, try removing the auto-wind module from the main-plate & then try to manually-wind it. If it then winds, re-install the auto-wind module but be sure you are installing it correctly. There are a couple of wheels that need to mesh with their counterparts on the main-plate. If it is still jammed, then you likely have a problem with the keyless works or barrel. To check the keyless works, remove the hands/dial & inspect. To check the barrel, you will need to disassemble the movement. If unsure or you lack the proper tools/skills, take the watch to a rep-friendly watchmaker.

As long as it beats at 21.6kbs, that should be correct. But I would definitely get it serviced either way. As for the hands, it does sound like they are either slipping on the movement's pinions or their barrels are loose.

click me

And for a fraction of the price. The only case where I would pay that much for pushers is if you need the early (rare, difficult to source) 6240 screw-style pushers Compare with later style, which is what Ofrei sells (& Rolex currently fits during servicing)

Alli - is the GMT hand actually slipping (does it move if you blow air on it when uncased) or just not keeping the correct time? I reported something similar when I transplanted the GMT components from the Silix ROLS176's 2836-2 onto the (freshly serviced) 2846 I used in my Phase 1 6542 (right) The GMT hand worked perfectly when it was on the 28.8kbh 2836-2, but it runs a bit slow on the 21.6kbh 2846. The gearing that mates with the GMT components in each movement (due to their differing beat rates), which I believe is why the hand is unable to keep pace in the 2846.

It IS NTD. NDtrading = Natalie's Passion = np0234. All same.

Love that Spaceview, Ubi. Looking genuinely Mysterious today

Try thewatchprince.com or search google for watch cases. They should not be difficult to locate.

I think someone has too much free time.

I find it difficult to locate many 16750s that DO contain the word 'date'.

I would be interested in availability/pricing for any of the following gen stainless steel (SS) parts - 1 pair of 585 end links 1 7205/71 riveted, or 7835/271 or 7835/371 folded link bracelets 1 beveled (current style) Tropic 21 crystal 1 6mm Twinlock SS crown Thanks.