freddy333

This is the proper bezel for a 6265 (gold or steel)

Still Friday afternoon here & still wearing this

Awaiting final pics.

Ending the work week wearing my beater

Smaller (1024x678-ish) pics would help, but

The underside of the case where the pushers are located looks fine (the cut outs for the pushers vary on the gen cases & polishing also affects the shape/size of the cut-outs). I am not an authority on 78350s (I only use 7835s on my 62xxs), so take this with a huge grain of salt, but that may be an aftermarket bracelet . The stamping looks larger than what I see on verified gens.

Ditto that. The misaligned minute totalizer hand is likely just loose. Often, these can be repaired with epoxy or you can get a replacement from DW, Phong, etc (but do not be surprised to find the same problem with the replacement hand ). Also, before you make a final decision, can you get a better pic of the bracelet model number stamp on the 1st link after the end link?

Thanks All.

Ditto all of the above & read this.

LHOOQ is basically correct. For 62xx Daytona end links, either 71s, 271s or 371s on a 6635, 7205 or 7835 are correct.

Unlike alot of mine, most of your posts are actually worth reading.

Nice way to began an addiction.

Seems a bit cheap, Nanuq. A digital pic of a million dollars & some snowmobile oil would be more fitting.

Wearing my freckled OPD today

The polished bracelets on modern Daytonas are what keep me from wearing mine often (though none are for sale).

I think black is the only color strap that coordinates well with yellow gold without stealing attention away from the main attraction (the gold Newman head). Certainly, not a bright red DeModell like I occasionally wear with my SS '39 when I am feeling Italian

Glad you got things straightened out.

Sql_pl - Interesting. Thank you.

Sly - While anything is possible with vintage Rolex, I doubt they (Rolex) ever fitted a chronometer-rated caliber (1570) to a non-chronometer-rated watch (5513). The principal difference between the 5513 & 5512 is the latter's chronometer-rating. So, if you see a 5513 posted somewhere with a 1570 inside, I think it likely found its way in there sometime after the watch left Rolex.

Sorry, my comment was directed to the OP's comment about dropping his 1570 into a Yuki 5513 case.

Video? Do you have a link?

The 'POLEX' cases are MBW-level, which means they accept many gen parts (crown, tube, crystal, movement (possibly, with a bit of Dremel-nudging )).

Always research before you build. I believe Rolex only ever used the 1570 in the 5512 (the 5513 was powered by either the 1520 or 1530). As panerai153 said, it is not realistic to convert the 1570 to a 1575. There are about 30+ parts that need to be changed, including the (main) pillar plate, which would likely end up costing you more than the price of the 1575, assuming you are able to source all of the parts.