To the best of my knowledge, unlike Paypal, banks that wire money do not generally offer guarantees or refunds. So, unless you can track him down & take him to court, I do not know that there is much you can do to get your money back.
Can you post a good, clear macro of the dial & crown?
Hands can always be changed, but I am not familiar with this particular model, so I cannot offer any other hand options. In order to swap hands, you will need to know the hand (hole) sizes, or, at least, the movement model (if it is a generic Asian-made movement, you may need to measure the hands to get their sizes since little data is available).
In practice, that raised edge is there for a reason (not just an aesthetic design choice) & can be a life-saver, helping to keep flying parts from getting lost. But other points taken.
Rolex recommended PML 163 oil (as opposed to PML grease) for various parts of their watches. PML 80 is the modern replacement, which is why you are more likely to see that instead of 163
A number of Rolex-recommended lubricants have been superseded over the years with more modern replacements.
There are a number of aftermarket case suppliers, all of which are considerably more costly than MBWs or standard reps. Try Yuki, NDt or J&W.
For reference, other than the lug/caseback numbering, the 5512/5513/5514 & 1680 cases are the same (interchangeable).
Aside from the unavoidable obviousness of this watch, there is a line from the movie Amadeus that seems highly relevant here - 'Too many notes.'
I would say WAY too many notes.
Welcome.
In the RWG Lounge section on the main page, click on Introduction/Rules/Support & read the [Pinned] article Hey Noob...or not so Noob...Read this Now!
There are scores of posts here (authored by very knowledgeable members) recommending a full overhaul for any new rep that you plan to keep or need to rely on for accuracy. The movements in reps are either used (pulls from other used watches) or unserviced surplus.
I cannot answer your question, but I know that Rolex ascribes a part number to the 4030 Minute Wheel (4030-260), so it may very well be unique to the 4030.
The thing with DW (& other aftermarket Rolex parts sellers) is that his products tend to vary a bit from batch to batch. So, the dial that you receive may vary in details from the dial someone else received the day before. I think your best bet is to ask DW if it is possible for him to check the dial he is sending you before shipment for whatever issues you are concerned with. Otherwise, see if you can return the dial if the subdials are not as expected. Just keep your requirements simple & remember that English is not DW's language (he uses translation software to communicate & complicated words/phrases do not translate well).
He has not actually 'disappeared'. As I understand it, he buys a small lot of dials or whatever from an Asian distributor & then sells them on ebay. Once the lot is sold off, he 'vanishes' (until he buys the next lot).
I agree with Flex. I would hold off until you find a suitable dial. You can always find a case to fit--aftermarket, salvaged from a rep or gen.
I have been searching for an accurate gold Newman dial to replace the 7750 dial in my gold 6239. As hard as it is to find a good Newman dial, finding a gold 1 seems to be twice as hard. If/when I locate a dial, then I will begin sourcing the V72 movement for the conversion.
The spring is turned slightly until a tab reaches the cut-out section & then the spring pops......er, is carefully lifted out. (Be very careful as these things have a habit of becoming airborne without notice.) It takes a bit of practice. Also, there are various tools made to make spring removal a bit easier
but I usually just use 5a tweezers & a pointy piece of pegwood or plastic probe (to hold the shock in place as the spring is rotated).
Actually, sometimes you can (cure a dead movement). As I explained in my original powdered graphite thread, the watch used to test the process was DOA (prior to the treatment).