freddy333

Looks like the internal pin/screw may be loose.

3 possibilities - either the keyless works is malfunctioning, the auto-wind module is jammed or otherwise improperly installed onto the main-plate, or the 1st wheel/barrel is jammed. If you are comfortable uncasing the movement, try removing the auto-wind module from the main-plate & then try to manually-wind it. If it then winds, re-install the auto-wind module but be sure you are installing it correctly. There are a couple of wheels that need to mesh with their counterparts on the main-plate. If it is still jammed, then you likely have a problem with the keyless works or barrel. To check the keyless works, remove the hands/dial & inspect. To check the barrel, you will need to disassemble the movement. If unsure or you lack the proper tools/skills, take the watch to a rep-friendly watchmaker.

As long as it beats at 21.6kbs, that should be correct. But I would definitely get it serviced either way. As for the hands, it does sound like they are either slipping on the movement's pinions or their barrels are loose.

click me

And for a fraction of the price. The only case where I would pay that much for pushers is if you need the early (rare, difficult to source) 6240 screw-style pushers Compare with later style, which is what Ofrei sells (& Rolex currently fits during servicing)

Alli - is the GMT hand actually slipping (does it move if you blow air on it when uncased) or just not keeping the correct time? I reported something similar when I transplanted the GMT components from the Silix ROLS176's 2836-2 onto the (freshly serviced) 2846 I used in my Phase 1 6542 (right) The GMT hand worked perfectly when it was on the 28.8kbh 2836-2, but it runs a bit slow on the 21.6kbh 2846. The gearing that mates with the GMT components in each movement (due to their differing beat rates), which I believe is why the hand is unable to keep pace in the 2846.

It IS NTD. NDtrading = Natalie's Passion = np0234. All same.

Love that Spaceview, Ubi. Looking genuinely Mysterious today

Try thewatchprince.com or search google for watch cases. They should not be difficult to locate.

I think someone has too much free time.

I find it difficult to locate many 16750s that DO contain the word 'date'.

I would be interested in availability/pricing for any of the following gen stainless steel (SS) parts - 1 pair of 585 end links 1 7205/71 riveted, or 7835/271 or 7835/371 folded link bracelets 1 beveled (current style) Tropic 21 crystal 1 6mm Twinlock SS crown Thanks.

Slipping the grasp of my Aryan 'Master to attend dinner with friends & my pearly white Newman

The 1st generation A7750 used in the earliest secs @ 6 Daytona reps seem to have survived, whereas many/most of the later/current versions suffered high failure rates due to the design's inherent compromises. If your case & rotor looks like the watch in Step 2, then you likely have 1 of the heartier, early watches. I was fortunate to have picked up 1 each of the earliest 116508 & 116520s, both of which have never missed a tick, so to speak

I would go with the black (darker) insert, but you need to replace that handpainted datewheel.

I am not a strap aficionado & hand-vs-machine stitching would make little difference to me. But I appreciate your kind offer just the same.

I assume you mean this pic I am certainly not a photographic expert, but it looks fine to me.

Good point. If either dial has the Comex lettering painted (black, a la the gen) instead of simply letting the dial color through, I would go with that 1. Otherwise, I would still cast my vote for the white 1.

It was & I did (see post #11).

Except for the lume color, they look about the same (note the 2 in 2000 on both dials - same font). I would go with the white lume version.

For whatever it is worth, according to the (translated) letters, the bezel has been replaced at least twice (the dial, at least once).