freddy333

Did someone say 'JlC' Wearing my beater today

This may help

Ditto By-Tor's recommendation. A few steps that help - Use your camera's (Macro) setting (refer to your manual for details on its operation) Position the watch for minimal reflections in the dial/crystal Best location & time to shoot is outside at sunrise/sunset - when the light is diffuse but not dark

If the MBW case is made to the same dimensions as the gen case it should. But you will need to contact the seller to find out. It should, but I have never seen 1 of those MBWs in person, so the only way to know for sure is to roll the dice & find out.

Looking good.

Ending the work week with a rose

Maxfly - Have you contacted each seller (including brief descriptions with good, clear pics illustrating the problems)?

It all depends on how much you know about vintage Rolex, how neurotic you are & how much money, time & effort you are willing spend to placate your neurosis. Euro's watch gets the general 6538 theme right, but most of the details wrong. As is, this watch should fool anyone who knows little or nothing about vintage Subs, but is likely to be spotted as a fake by anyone who does. The basic features of a 6538 are all there, but not in their correct form (incorrect colors, sizes, fonts, shapes, locations, etc). The dial colors & fonts are close, but no horseshoe The crystal is the wrong shape, the pearl should not have a metal surround, the insert fonts are wrong. However, the middle case, if the dimensions are correct (38mm x 15mm), might work but I would swap out the original 'fast beat' ETA for a 'slow beat' ETA 2846 The caseback is incorrect & the bracelet looks fake (& is famous for falling to bits upon arrival) Were it me, I would replace the dial (Yuki), crystal (gen) bezel/insert (CWP), 8mm Brevet crown/tube (Yuki), bracelet (Yuki) & case (Yuki) & gen 1030 movement. This would set you back at least $2,500 plus the cost of labor to service the movement & assemble the parts. However, for an off-the-shelf rep, this is probably as good as it gets.

Thanks, Alligoat. I did.

Yes, a bit of an itchy finger there.

The blue actually makes it look more natural.

Ditto. I can add that Timeman is generally a very reliable seller. A bit on the pricey side, but a good guy who knows his stuff.

No, but if you are looking for leg locations, they should be the same as any other dial made to fit an ETA. If you have another ETA-powered rep, just check that dial. The legs should be in the same locations.

Thanks, rosnik. I found that, but there are only 2 pics - no order link or page containing price/ordering info. I thought there was a page to order these from?

Go Ubi.

Does anyone have the link to Eurotimez' flat-top 3 ETA datewheels? I cannot find them on his site. TIA

Not sure why you are unable to access his credit card payment page, but Josh is definitely 1 of the good guys.

no

A shame. I always see these customizations of classic Rolex watches as being the watch equivalent to this For those who are unfamiliar, this is was a rare Mercedes 300SL 'Gullwing', which is was 1 of the most coveted & valuable cars ever made.

Ditto that. Someone just paid nearly 7 grand for a case (& possibly, with a great deal of luck, a pillar plate), which is the only thing that is likely to be salvageable. Amazing how often the name 'Rolex' generates insanity in otherwise sane men.

For whatever it is worth, I second Ziggy's & By-Tor's comments. The CHS GMT is, at best, a Rube Goldberg 'fix' that teeters on the edge of self-destruction due to its patchwork construction. This is not to say that every CHS GMT is absolutely destined for early-term ruination. A few members' CHS GMTIICs have been utterly reliable (mine being 1 of the most dependable & accurate watches - gen or rep - that I have ever owned). However, on the other hand, the WHS GMT has a proven track record of long-term reliability, backed by its wide-spread use. Unlike the complicated 11-gear carnival ride that turns a common 7750 into the enigmatic seconds-@-6 Daytona heartbeat, the WHS GMT, as Ziggy explained, requires only a couple of additional parts & these do not appear to over-tax the engine's performance or the movement's overall longevity. Anyone considering a GMT should read (all of) By-Tor's GMT reviews before proceeding with ANY purchase. This would save alot of frustration for the buyer & repetitiously hackneyed questions for the rest of us.

It all looks aftermarket to me.