freddy333

Are you sure your bezel is gen?

What did you have done besides painting the index markers? Looks good.

That is what dial dots are for.

The short answer is no. The dial feet & subdial centers on the V72 & ST19, as well as the 7750, are all in slightly different locations.

Interesting dial. The subdials appear to be deeper than the dial face, which would be ideal for a Newman, but, unfortunately, is completely wrong for a non-Newman. If only the outer minute track was at the same level (below the dial face) as the subs.............

Per your PM - The non-Newman 6239 came from Japan several years ago (I cannot remember the seller's name, but, if I recall correctly, he deals only with Asian-based buyers) & is powered by a modified 7750 (I removed the auto-wind module, effectively turning it into a manual-wind & reducing the movement height allowing for the fitment of a gen-style/sized caseback) & is fitted with the following genuine Rolex parts: crystal, bracelet, crown/tube & pushers. The remaining 3 are powered by Valjoux 72s (the base movements for all 62xx Daytonas) with modded MQ dials (I swapped the coronets for gens & painted the index markers on the black dials) & fitted with the following genuine Rolex parts: crystal, hands (for 2 of them, but I forget which 2?), bracelet, crown/tube & pushers.

Sadly, no. That is their 1 big fail. I have never seen an aftermarket Newman dial (including the infamous 'Texas' dials) that got that correct. If you have the courage/skill to remove/reinstall all of the index markers, find a piece of pipe with an inner circumference that matches the intersection of the minute track/dial face & sandwich the dial between a flat plate & the pipe. Use a caseback press (or similar) to press the edge of the pipe into the minute track to create the step. While you are at it, locate a dowel or solid pipe whose outer circumference matches the diameter of the subdials & press those to the same depth as the minute track, ideally, both should be ~.5~1mm. Be very careful because it is very easy to damage an expensive dial - ask me how I know.

Still in a Newman groove

I hate to bust your bubble, but it's highly unlikely that either of those Newman dials are genuine (or repainted gen blanks). Instead, they appear to be good (but not great), Asian-made aftermarket dials. If they were gens, either Newman dial would cost you $25k+ each (likely far higher). But you do have a nice collection of Daytonas. p.s. Everyone, please do not re-post entire sets of pics (edit them out of your reply) just to add a line or 2 of text below them.

Ditto most of the above (everything but the dial & hands look correct to me.....but always buy (verify) the seller before you buy the Rolex!!). If the movement runs well, it could be a good deal. Replace the hands with appropriate genuines & a genuine 6538 dial or good aftermarket & you have a nice, wearable vintage Sub.

Sunday

Thanks, Boss!

It sounds like you might know of aftermarket dials that are more accurate than MQ's.

Yes, that is the give-away for nearly every aftermarket Newman dial. MQ's dials are 1 of the few that almost get it right (still, not quite deep enough, but close enough to fool all but the most experienced Daytona collector). Although not as obvious, the minute track that runs around the circumference of these dials is also a slight step below the dial face. Not quite as deep as the subdials, but it is another way to quickly ID gens from aftermarket dials, especially, the Oyster Newman dials, which have deeper minute track steps than the non-Oysters.

As long as the details are generally accurate, I think getting the subdial depth (~1mm below the dial face) & dial texture correct will be the biggest hurdles & provide the most credibility.

I replaced the coronets with gens & painted the index markers black on the black dials (they arrive with silver markers, which is incorrect for black Newman dials)

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